92 LT-1 starter motor

[eleebid]

Hi,
My starter motor is acting up. You turn the key click click click starts.
The battery was four years old so I put in a brand new one. Problem went away for a few days then came back.
Can it be anything else than the starter going bad?? Only 29K on the odometer. Where beside the dealer can I get a new starter? Can I get this one rebuilt?
How hard is it to change? Manual says to remove the two bolts holding it on and the wires and out it comes. I looked, it's buiried deep.
Any help appreciated.

 

[PLRX]

Hi,
My starter motor is acting up. You turn the key click click click starts.
The battery was four years old so I put in a brand new one. Problem went away for a few days then came back.
Can it be anything else than the starter going bad?? Only 29K on the odometer. Where beside the dealer can I get a new starter? Can I get this one rebuilt?
How hard is it to change? Manual says to remove the two bolts holding it on and the wires and out it comes. I looked, it's buiried deep.
Any help appreciated.

Is your choice to buy a new one or else. The manual is correct but it does not tells you about the catalyst removal. Remember to disconnect the battery fist!!!!!

-Pedro

 

[Edmond]

Almost all Auto Parts stores sell starters. You can get yours rebuilt in the $120 neighborhood. I think new ones are between $175-200.

Also, most auto parts stores will test your starter for free.

 

[Ted Krempa]

do starters still have solenoids ??

also, before replacing, check all the cables and wires. make sure you have good contacts and grounds. It could be something as simple as a loose connections. Starters should'nt go bad at that mileage

 

[Edmond]

Yes, I believe all our starters will have a solenoid.

True, 29K miles isn't much for a starter. However, the starter is 13 years old and has been exposed for 13 years.

 

[Hrtbeat1]

Check and clean all the contacts on the positive distribution terminal (behind battery and toward firewall) It could be as simple as a bad connection there.

 

[Hrtbeat1]

The P/N for the starter solenoid is AC Delco #D984 ... $17.26 from Rockauto.

 

[jmccloud]

LT-1 Starter

My '95 LT-1 solenoid failed and it was as you described, click -click-click-start. The interior lights did not dim during the ititial clicks so little current was being drawn from the battery, so the solenoid was the first suspect.
The '95 LT-1 (and yours too, likely) has a solenoid integrated into the starter, so you must replace both (likely $100+ with the old one turned in for core charge at an auto discount store like Advance or AutoZone - more from the dealer).
The right side cat converter is in the way of one of the two bolts. I bent the heat shield (yea brutal but it worked) about 1/8" and used 3/8" drive tools rather than 1/2" drive tools to remove the two bolts. I had to use a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter with a large breaker bar because the bolts were very tight but the 3/8 socket and 6" extension reached to the bolt.
The starter will come out easily without removing the cat, it's only the bolts that are 'inaccessible'.
Drop the starter only a little, then remove the wires.
Yes, disconnect the battery before doing anything.
I found no shims.
Works like a charm
Hope this helps

 

[Edmond]

Buy a set of shims while you're at the auto store anyway. Having to go all the way back for a $2.00 package of shims because you're $100+ starter isn't aligned correctly is a PITA and impractical. I learned that from experience.:L:L:L Like jmmcloud, there wasn't a shim on the stock starter.

 

[DMGroh]

If the oem came out without shims, how would you know if a shim was required on reinstallation of the replacement? It isn't exactly easy to see alignment in there laying on your back enduring muscle spasms.

 

[John Robinson]

Another Idea

I would check the alternator. It sounds to me like the new battery had a good charge in it when you got it and you were running on the battery alone. The alternator may be working some but you eventually drained the battery. I would question the need to replace the starter or the alternator until it is checked. You can do this by taking the car to a place like advance auto and they will do a system check for free. This reduces the expensive guess work of throwing parts at the car. With the low milage I would do as others have said and remove all the wire connections on the starter and alternator and ground wire, and clean them and reinstall. Wouldn't it be nice if it were something as simple as a corroded connection. :L

 

[invinceablevett]

My starter went out at 15 000 miles...was replaced under warranty so .We were having a Corvette run and I had to keep banging it with a hammer to get through the day.
Dealer told me at the time that I wasn't the first.....Maybe he just re-connected a wire and billed GM for a new one....Ya think dealers would do such a thing?

 

[Edmond]

Ya think dealers would do such a thing?

No way, not the dealer!:L:L:L

 

[srs244]

I would check the alternator. It sounds to me like the new battery had a good charge in it when you got it and you were running on the battery alone. The alternator may be working some but you eventually drained the battery. I would question the need to replace the starter or the alternator until it is checked. You can do this by taking the car to a place like advance auto and they will do a system check for free. This reduces the expensive guess work of throwing parts at the car. With the low milage I would do as others have said and remove all the wire connections on the starter and alternator and ground wire, and clean them and reinstall. Wouldn't it be nice if it were something as simple as a corroded connection. :L

i agree. it seems logical (i know, since when does that ever enter into the equation???, LOL), that if it worked under full battery power, perhaps your battery isn't be charged properly and eventuall (several days) falls into a partially charged condition. it could be something as simple as a poor connection. i would check BOTH ends of the battery cables (particularly the ground cable), clean and reinstall them and see if that helps. just to hesitate a guess, but with so few miles in 13 years, the inactivity probably did a bitmore harm than anything else.

i remember reading in another post about having your local parts store "test" stuff (in that case it was an alternator). they basically power it up to see if it works, don't necessarily put the part under the same type of load it needs to operate correctly. causes lots of head scratching because you think the part has tested good, when in fact it may be the cause of the problems under normal operating conditions.

 

[Chicoman]

I've always had good luck at Sears Automotive for checking alternator & battery and installing a new batery.