96 Help again.

[kingman]

Hi

Sorry for asking so many questions but until l get my manual l'm blind.

How do you take off the front bumber where the front license plate is supposed to go?

Also l read the threads on the low tire pressure guage and l didn't find what l was looking for.

The light comes on after riding for 10 minutes and it says "service LTWS". If it's not there because when he put new tires on they came of or were never reconnected, what should l do.

What do the sensors look like, because l didn't see them on the outside of the mag by the valve stem.

How do you take off the panel for the information center so l can take the bulb out or should l just take out the fuse and do away with the cruise control??

At what mileage is the major service??

The tire's are new Yokohama's, and he put in cross drilled rotors up front because he said they were cheaper.

Besides all of that the car rides, stops and performs well.

Can the 96 ever be tight as a drum??

 

[CKA_Racing]

If you look carefully , you will see very small torx screws in between the plate cover and the bumper. You may have to force the screw/torx driver in between there some.

The sensors use a strap to hold them in place on the inside of the wheel. You need to pop the tire off or pop the bead to see if there are installed. You can ahve the dealership hookup a code reader, that will tell you whether it's really a sensor issue or the module. The module is located inside the dash. It receives the signals from the sensors. That big Corvette dealership in Atlantic City, NJ sold me my vette without the wheel sensors. The light was reset before the car was sold to me. For some reason the LTWS light did not come on after about 200 miles or so. I was ****ed. But after reading all the headaches this system can cause, i decided to just pull the LTWS bulb. You can pull the cruise control fuse to put out the light, but that also shuts off the cruise control. It's pretty easy to pull the bulb. Just start at the console glove box and remove any screws that are preventing the console sections from coming off. It's pretty simple to do. Then pull the DIC and remove the bulb. It's a 15 minute job.

Major service i believe is around 60,000 miles.

I'm not sure what you are getting at with the drilled rotor comment. Cheaper than what? Stock units? Depending on how you use your brakes, you may start having cracking/webbing issues with your rotors. Will that matter? All depends on the person.

 

[Geof180]

hey there kingman...

i have a 96, and it is tight as a drum....

i do not have the LTPWS on my car, so i will not pretend i know much about how to service it... i was always under the impression the sensors were pressure transducers strapped around the wheel, inside the tire...

about how to get to the plate area...forgive me for not having the exact driver sizes here.. you will need to use an extension on the screwdriver to unscrew two screws holding this cover in place... once the small screws are out, the plate cover will come right out... use a flashlight to look around the border of the cover to locate the screws....

it has been a long time since i have taken that thing off... i have to run the front plate, as it is required by law in the state of texas...

was i able to help out any??

Geof

 

[jmccloud]

LTWS

The first version of the sensors was a device strapped to the inside of each wheel. They were color coded (I'll try to look them up but you can find them at Eckler's) and could only be accessed by removing the tire. Later the sensors were part of the valve stem but again on the inside of the wheel and the tire had to be removed (or at least pulled back from the rim) in order to see the sensor.
I'm not sure when the change occured but have been told it was C4-C5. I do know that my son's 98 C5 had the valve stem sensors and my 95 did not come with that option.
If you're sure there are no sensors, might as well remove the bulb.
To get at the info center (this is from memory, so look out for extra screws)
1)Inside the center console pull up the rug-like material and remove the two vertical screws near the front. It's not necessary but I find it easier to remove the console lid too.
3)Under the cup holder/ash tray remove the vertical screw. Then lift the gear shift/ash tray cover and move it back a few inches. It helps to move the gear shift back or remove the knob (pop the center button off then remove the tru-arc ring---Yes it's a pain)
2)Remove the two horizontal screws near the bottom of the radio/heater console cover.
Remove the two torx screws holding the top center A/C vent and pull the vent out. These two screws are usually really tight and tough to turn.
4)Remove the screw near the upper passenger side of the radio/heater console cover.
5)Gently pull the radio/console cover off. There's a plastic pawl on the drivers side.
6)Remove the screws (torx, I think) holding the info center on and you can pull it out to see the bulbs.
The owner's manual has a good description of the LTWS system and some of the parts catalogs (like Eckler's) picture the parts.
Good luck

 

[CKA_Racing]

Re: LTWS

The first version of the sensors was a device strapped to the inside of each wheel. They were color coded (I'll try to look them up but you can find them at Eckler's) and could only be accessed by removing the tire. Later the sensors were part of the valve stem but again on the inside of the wheel and the tire had to be removed (or at least pulled back from the rim) in order to see the sensor.
I'm not sure when the change occured but have been told it was C4-C5. I do know that my son's 98 C5 had the valve stem sensors and my 95 did not come with that option.
If you're sure there are no sensors, might as well remove the bulb.
To get at the info center (this is from memory, so look out for extra screws)
1)Inside the center console pull up the rug-like material and remove the two vertical screws near the front. It's not necessary but I find it easier to remove the console lid too.
3)Under the cup holder/ash tray remove the vertical screw. Then lift the gear shift/ash tray cover and move it back a few inches. It helps to move the gear shift back or remove the knob (pop the center button off then remove the tru-arc ring---Yes it's a pain)
2)Remove the two horizontal screws near the bottom of the radio/heater console cover.
Remove the two torx screws holding the top center A/C vent and pull the vent out. These two screws are usually really tight and tough to turn.
4)Remove the screw near the upper passenger side of the radio/heater console cover.
5)Gently pull the radio/console cover off. There's a plastic pawl on the drivers side.
6)Remove the screws (torx, I think) holding the info center on and you can pull it out to see the bulbs.
The owner's manual has a good description of the LTWS system and some of the parts catalogs (like Eckler's) picture the parts.
Good luck

Wow, good memory. I could nto remember most of it if you you tortured me.

 

[kingman]

And the last thing!

How do l get the front license plate cover off????


Sorry l just realized, that if l have the low preasure sensors, then the vette came with run flats and that means no spare tire.

What should l do besides scream!!

 

[CKA_Racing]

Re: And the last thing!

How do l get the front license plate cover off????

see my first reply or jmcloud reply.

 

[silver 80]

look at the top of the plate cover in between the crack you should see two screws or torx screws that's it just remove.
tom

 

[vetteguy]

Kingman, if you push up on the plate cover and look between the bottom of the cover and the bumper you will see two torx screws. Remove them and the plate will come off. My 96 is as tight as a drum. Yes it is possible. Good Luck, Guy

 

[6 Shooter]

Another 96 LT4 as tight as a snare drum . . .

 

[kingman]

Thanks

I must be over tired thanks. (front license plate cover)

As far as tight as a drum, did you do it or was it that was from the beginning?

Right now, the only thing l felt while driving my vette is if l hit a bump in the road, it was jarring.

lt seems that the vette came fully loaded.

The orig owner did not take the delete on the spare, when he ordered the run flats.

l'm ordering the orig sticker from the NCM and when l get it l will know for sure.

Would there be anything additional on the build sheet that doesn't show up on the window sticker???

 

[jmccloud]

Tight as a drum

Last year I bought a '95 coupe that jarred pretty badly but made no squeeks or rattles. I live on a country road and it was torture to drive.
The tires were original type Eagle something or other and in only fair condition.
A few months ago I got Firestone SZ50's (I think that was the type) and what a difference. It still rides like a sports car but no jarring and best of all the truck tire like drone is gone when driving the interstate.

 

[vetteguy]

This car was tight when I got it. That is why I bought it. I had an 85 before and loved it but this car is a world apart from that one. Guy

 

[kingman]

Tight as a drum!!!!!!!

Well it seems that the LT4's are the tight one's.

 

[kingman]

Surprise!!!!!!!!!

I forgot to mention that for some reason l didn't realize that he had the spare tire.!!

l have no idea why a person who is running run flats would need a spare, plus the extra weight.

 

[Chetzki]

Kingman -

You don't need to order the sticker. The RPO codes are on top of the tray in the cargo hatch behind the passenger seat.

My LT4 backend rocks back and forth a bit when I hit a bump while switching lanes, and has some flex with the roof panel off. Other than that, I can't complain.

Chetzki

 

[kingman]

RPO codes

Thanks will check it out later.

 

[LT1Vettepilot]

LTPWS

The sensors went from the strap type to part of the valve stem when the C5 came out. All C4 LTWPS equipped cars have the strap type. I would have the local chevy dealer read your codes to find out if you need new sensors or if it is in the module. The sensors aren't cheap! According to my resident Corvette Specialist/mechanic the sensors were discontinued at one time, but recently a company has begun to build them again. He didn't recall the name. Of the three big Corvette parts and after market suppliers, Ecklers, Corvette Central, and Mid-America, 2 of them offer the sensors to the tune of $260+ and $190. I don't recall the exact price, but those are close. I managed to find them at www.gmpartsdirect.com for about $100 each. One key point to remember is each wheel uses a different frequency sensor, so you have to be sure to order and install the correct ones in the correct locations. They each have a different part number as well. For instance, the right front GM Part number is 10164855. I happen to know that one because the damaged cover is sitting on my deskad Long story...
Anyway, if the service light comes on right away, I would take a slightly educated guess that the reciever is where your problem is. If you have a bad sensor/transmitter it takes about 3 miles of driving over 25mph before the light comes on. Which is about right if you read the owner's manual which says you have to be going at least 25mph before the system acutally reads. Don't know why. Plus, the light should turn off as soon as you shut the car off and not come back on again until you have driven it.
By the way...if you decide to have someone other than a certified GM mechanic who KNOWS Corvettes pull your wheels and tires apart, be sure you have the warning sticker on the wheel AND tell them where the sensor is as they have only a plastic case which is easily damaged. Causes VERY BAD things when they come undone at 65mph due to damage...:nono Told you it was long story.
By the way...the sensors are located exactly opposite of the valve stem.

 

[kingman]

It must be a bad sensor/transmitter, but being that the tires were changed, and this guy had no money left, l'm sure he did it the cheapest way.

How can l find out if l need more then one sensor and do l need them in the first place?

My concern now is, what if they come apart inside while l'm driving 90mph??

 

[LT1Vettepilot]

Well the cheap way would be to lower the tire pressure below 25 PSI in one tire, drive it over 25mph for about 1/4 mile (that is about when mine warning light comes on) and see if you get the FLAT/LOW TIRE warning light. If all but one wheel gives you a warning light, you know that wheel needs a sensor...or 2 wheels or how ever many don't work. (be sure to refill each tire after testing that wheel as the light just tells you that there is a problem, it doesn't tell you what wheel) If they all check good (I.E. You get a FLAT/LOW light on all 4 tires), then your problem is the receiver. If they all check bad (I.E. You don't get a FLAT/LOW light on any of them) then it is either the receiver or all four sensors. I would see if the local dealer can check the codes before pulling all the wheels apart in case it is the receiver. I wouldn't be too concerned about the sensor coming apart at high speed. I had a non-chevy dealer throw some tires on my front end and during the process, I think the tire tool came into contact with the sensor housing hard enough to just crack it where the metal band goes through it. I drove the car home on the back roads (no faster than about 45) with no problems, but when I went back into work on the higher speed roads, I had a bad vibration in the front end at about 55. Felt kind of like a broken belt in a tire. To find out if it was a harmonic vibration I accelerated to 60, but the vibration continued and in fact got a little worse to the point of almost uncontrollable, but the car stayed pretty much straight. Now I don't know that I would want to try that at 90mph...but I would think if it one was going to come apart, it would have done so by now. But like all things mechanical. You can install a brand new part and it could break tomorrow or you can install a junk yard part and have it last 20 years. You just never know when something is going to wear out.