96 No Start

[MiMitch]

HELP! After reading the articles about the VATS system, I thought for sure that was my problem. I took apart the connector and plugged the ohm meter into the key side of the plug and a correct reading of 4720 ohms with the key in the ignition. I already replaced the ign. sw. on the steering column. I even tried it with the key in the on pos. and manually activating the ign. sw.. Same results, nothing. I know VERY little about elec. systems, so, any help that you may have will have to be kept simple.
I thank you in advance for any help that you may have in this matter.
remember, Keep It Simple. Thanks.
MiMitch

P.S.: If you know of anyone in the Metro Detroit area, that is competent and reasonably priced (obviously) please let me know.

 

[tmkassin]

HELP! After reading the articles about the VATS system, I thought for sure that was my problem. I took apart the connector and plugged the ohm meter into the key side of the plug and a correct reading of 4720 ohms with the key in the ignition. I already replaced the ign. sw. on the steering column. I even tried it with the key in the on pos. and manually activating the ign. sw.. Same results, nothing. I know VERY little about elec. systems, so, any help that you may have will have to be kept simple.
I thank you in advance for any help that you may have in this matter.
remember, Keep It Simple. Thanks.
MiMitch

P.S.: If you know of anyone in the Metro Detroit area, that is competent and reasonably priced (obviously) please let me know.

I might be able to help. Just went through several weeks of chasing an electric gremlin in my 92. My email is tmkassin@yahoo.com

 

[vetteoz]

No start = no crank?
There are other parts in the starter circuit; starter enable relay and inhibitor switch. You need to check each of these to see if they have power.
Is starter good?
Can run a hot wire direct to the starter solenoid to confirm actual starter operation.

 

[MiMitch]

96 No start

I've checked all the fuzes and found a bad fuse for the horn. I replaced that. When I turn the ign.sw., the under hood lights stay bright, so I would assume no draw on the battery. On the dash the "brake pressure"
light goes off. Everything else remainms the same.
The car sits outside un-covered, so I have the weather and neighbors to contend with, plus it's against the rules to work on cars on the premises.
Will a "code reader" from Murray's/Autozone work or does the engine have to be running for them to operate? Can "relays" be checked with a volt/ohm meter? Are the wiring diagrams in the Chilton manual easy to follow? Is it possible to get an ohm reading from the key and still have a bad key ass'y?
Again Thanks to everyone who replied. I'll try to do all items suggested.

MiMitch

 

[vigman]

The code reader doesn't need the car running to pull codes

It will tell you if there is a VATS error....

First things first.. is the car a stick or auto?

There is a lot of stuff between the key contact and the starter input..

Let me know if it's stick or auto first...
Then do you have a test light?

When was the last time the car was running?

Thanks
Vig~

 

[vetteoz]

Can "relays" be checked with a volt/ohm meter? Are the wiring diagrams in the Chilton manual easy to follow?

You just use the DVM to follow the power through the starter circuit until it disappears.
First test would be to jumper the starter to check that the starter itself is working properly.Could save alot of work under the dash; not fun ;squint:

 

[MiMitch]

Ididn't get to work on the car on Thur. because of rain. I bought a remote starter and tried to hook it up this AM. I've jacked the car up and noticed a brkt. mounted to the oil pan with spme wires connected to a harness. I'm assuming that I need to drop the brkt. To get access to the starter solenoid.From my memory on working on cars along time ago, when I was young and agile, I remember that there were two (2) post and the main pos. cable. I believe the small posts had two (2) different size nuts, which side (size) to I attach the lead from the remote?
The car is a 6-speed and I haven't tried to start it in a year or so.
Again thanks for your replies.
Mitch

 

[MiMitch]

Just got out from under the car. Looking from the frt. to the rear. There is the main pos. wire and about .75in above that there's another post. Is this the post that I connect the black remote starter wire? The set-up in/on the starter is alot different than I remember it, a heck of alot more complicated.
Again thanks for any info you may have.
Mitch

 

[Schrade]

I've checked all the fuzes and found a bad fuse for the horn. I replaced that. When I turn the ign.sw., the under hood lights stay bright, so I would assume no draw on the battery. On the dash the "brake pressure"
light goes off. Everything else remainms the same.
The car sits outside un-covered, so I have the weather and neighbors to contend with, plus it's against the rules to work on cars on the premises.
Will a "code reader" from Murray's/Autozone work or does the engine have to be running for them to operate? Can "relays" be checked with a volt/ohm meter? Are the wiring diagrams in the Chilton manual easy to follow? Is it possible to get an ohm reading from the key and still have a bad key ass'y?
Again Thanks to everyone who replied. I'll try to do all items suggested.

MiMitch

Forget Chilton's. That book needs a round hollow binder to hang in the 'library' (read a page, tear, wipe, flush, repeat if necessary).

Can't work on the car? HOA rules? Rich neighborhood, huh?

Electricity flow is just like water flow. From the battery (+), to a bulb, to a switch, to the radio, then through a fuse for each one, and back to the battery. Break the line/fuse/filament, and the flow stops. In your case, battery (+) -> ig. switch -> starter solenoid -> starter -> battery (-). I don't know where the fuse is in '96 circuit.

 

[Fast Freddie]

here is the Mitchell On Demand procedure. maybe it will help.

 

[Fast Freddie]

here is the Mitchell On Demand procedure. maybe it will help.

here is the wiring diagram referenced in the procedure i uploaded. the "FIG 2" as referenced in the article did not apply. looked to be a typo.

 

[tmkassin]

I am in Macomb and have a shop in Sterling Heights. If you don't get anywhere with this problem I will be glad to help. The electrical system can be intimidating, but by using the FSM and troubleshooting step by step you can figure this out. After several weeks of testing and troubleshooting on my 92 I have become familiar with this electrical system. I also have a tow dolly if you want to bring it to my shop. tmkassin@yahoo.com

 

[MiMitch]

Is the purple wire in the diagram the same wire that is above the main pos. post on the starter solenoid under the car?
Can I connect the remote starter to this small post and the pos. cale at the battery and try to turn over the engine?
I'll have to get a 12v test lightand some miniture alligator clips. The clips I have are to large to get into the smaller recepiticals. Tried Radio schack and there clips seem to be to large also. Any suggestions where I might find some miniture clips?
Thanks again for all your help, especially on a holiday weekend.
Does HOA= House On Axles ? (AKA= Trailer or for the politically correct, which I'm not, Manufactured Home
Mitch

 

[vigman]

1st.. LITTLE CLIPS will go poof.. you need big current to make the starter solenoid pull in.
( over 2 amps ) which the little radio shack clips will BURN!

2nd you need to probe ( working backwards ) the yellow wire in the fuse box ( #10 ).. check this with the test light ( or volt meter ) with the key in start! ( not on )

Both sides of this fuse should be hot when the key is in the start position!

report back

 

[vigman]

And yes.. you connect the purple wire to one side of the remote starter switch and the other side to battery +.

All this will check is if your starter turns... ( betting a secondary problem ) but useful info none the less.

and is this stick or auto?

Mike

 

[MiMitch]

I won't be able to work on the car until later today or tomorrow morning. Thanks agin for all your replys. Have a safe and enjoyable 4th. and enjoy all the freedoms that we have.
Thanks.
Mitch

 

[Schrade]

HOA = home owner's association.

Some say no RV's outside, no fans in windows, no parking in streets, no hanging laundry outside, no working on cars... Most are Nazi-esque, but they DO keep out the riff-raff.

 

[MiMitch]

I hooked up the remote starter and the starter turns over at normal speed. I removed the plug from the clutch safety switch and un-screwed the switch from the brkt..I connected the meter to the switch. With the button fully extended, as if depressing the clutch, I had a 1.0 reading. With the button depressed, clutch engaged the reading went to 0.0. I'm assuming that this is the way it should read.
The switch, in the area between the threaded portion and were the elec.wires plug into, has what appears to be a molded barbed fitting on the same side as the elec. connector. As I look down into the I.D. and depress the button, I can observe a little pin appear in the slot opening. Is the barbed opening(?) for a vaccuum line or any type of connector? There was nothing over that openuing when I removed the switch?
I have the lower ign. switch removed from the steering column and I'm using a drill bit to actuate the switch when needed. I'm assuming as long as I keep the key in the ign. switch tumbler, and turn it to what would be the "run" position that everything will work?
With the readings that I described, if they are correct, do I still need to jump the (2) wires that are in the connector itself? Can I use paper-clips to make the jumper connection in the connector itself, if needed?
Again thanks for your mpatience and help.
I prefer "House On Axles" over "Home Owners Assoc."it more fitting for the situation.

 

[Schrade]

I hooked up the remote starter and the starter turns over at normal speed. I removed the plug from the clutch safety switch and un-screwed the switch from the brkt..I connected the meter to the switch. With the button fully extended, as if depressing the clutch, I had a 1.0 reading. With the button depressed, clutch engaged the reading went to 0.0. I'm assuming that this is the way it should read.

Yeah, it should read that way for a continuity test. 0 for closed circuit, 1 for open circuit.

The switch, in the area between the threaded portion and were the elec.wires plug into, has what appears to be a molded barbed fitting on the same side as the elec. connector. As I look down into the I.D. and depress the button, I can observe a little pin appear in the slot opening. Is the barbed opening(?) for a vaccuum line or any type of connector? There was nothing over that openuing when I removed the switch?

Barb? Is this a connector lock tab?

I have the lower ign. switch removed from the steering column and I'm using a drill bit to actuate the switch when needed. I'm assuming as long as I keep the key in the ign. switch tumbler, and turn it to what would be the "run" position that everything will work?
With the readings that I described, if they are correct, do I still need to jump the (2) wires that are in the connector itself? Can I use paper-clips to make the jumper connection in the connector itself, if needed?

Paper clip will work for testing.

The lock cylinder itself has no electrical connection, I don't believe, unless it's for a 'Key in Ignition' warning chime.

If the key/lock cylinder turns, and it's properly connected to the rod, it will flip a ignition solenoid switch further down the steering column, with multiple contacts. In dozens of GM platforms (ALL S-vehicles from '94 - '03, and many others), this IG solenoid is faulty, with a TSB.

I don't think vette uses the same one, but they could still fail. Even then, the starter system was unaffected, but the tranny circuit and other circuits WERE.

Sounds like your IG solenoid is at fault. You need to find which connector socket is the battery FEED voltage, and which socket returns this voltage TO the starter solenoid.

 

[MiMitch]

Re-installed clutch safety switch.Alarm/horn relay is clicking (?) and won't shut off. New problem or did I not do something correct when I re-connected the battery?
Was looking at #2 on "Ck. list". The only purple and yellow wires that I see are on a different connector than the clutch safety switch.The top (2) wires of the connector are both black with the bottom (2) wires being the purple and yellow. The wires on the clutch saftey switch were both brown. Sorry if I,m not looking at the correct wires. Do I still connect the jumper wires from purple to yellow, then try turning the ign. switch?
Thanks for your patience.
Mitch
The "barbed" fitting on the clutch switch is not a lock tab and sits by itself as I have described it.
Mitch