97 wont start dic said pull key wait 10 secs

[targatom]

My 97 has been starting sporadically, and at this time wont start at all. The electrics are useable in the car, the stereo etc but the starter, at best will only spin maybe one sec, then all seems to stop. Or it wont spin at all, which is what is going on today. I did get a dic statement of ,, pull key , wait ten secs, then try again or some such once today, when I pulled the key some things flickered a bit, and there was a ,,,,,,locking unlocking noise apparently coming from the hatch,, or so it seems. I tried to lift the hatch and it wont release at all with the dash release. Help C5 MD s.

 

[Toms007]

My first thought when I read your post was, "I wonder about the condition of his battery. It is fully charged, does it meet the specifications and is it in good condition?"

The battery is an extremely important part of the C5 working properly. You might want to go to this thread and watch the videos I took of C4C5specialist (Paul Koerner) talking about column lock issue, but talks extensively about how important the battery is.

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com...rformance/122487-c5-column-lock-debunked.html

 

[targatom]

regarding the videos, battery amps and reserve capacity

I have watched them before since this is not a brand new problem, it actually has done this sporadically for a year or so. I do NOT have a full spec delco 78 silver pro battery, just a common 75 replacement is all, since I knew nothing of all this when I bought the replacement battery 15 months or so ago.. I was going to buy the full zoot delco, last year, and the car started starting properly for no apparent different reason than before. It ran properly until about a month ago when it failed to start, then fifteen mins later after I had called for a wrecker, started up and ran fine. I hadnt had further trouble with it, until about five days ago. I did,, just two weeks ago, have it on a desulfator, and did a slow charge at 2 amps after that, not due to a problem. I just do that routinely since I have a number of vehicles that I cycle thru storage. I will have the battery /charging system checked pronto and charge it again just to be sure.

 

[targatom]

more on battery, or is it moron battery?

Ok, well tom thanks for the reminder, I went out, wiggled the batt cable terminals, and the car started. I have a two amp charge going right now. I took it around the block, and the lights were flickering a bit, so obviously the batt is low, prolly due to bad connections, and so low the lights arent right. Tomorrow I will pull the terminals off, polish them, tourque em right and have a full batt to start with. Will keep you apprised of whats going on. Thanks TomSmith

 

[Toms007]

Looks like you're on to something there, Tom. Like you, when I replaced the battery on my 01, I went with, what the parts guys said, was the correct replacement. It fell short on a couple of the specs. I, however, never encountered any issues with it, even up to the day I sold it. I always kept the car on a Battery Tender, when not in use. Keep us apprised of your findings, and torque those terminals down to the correct specs.

 

[targatom]

oooooooooooooookkkkkkkkkkk,, not so quick

I got the terminals polished, the cable ends cleaned off , I used de oxit on everything and re assembled the parts. It started instantly , esp so since I had a full charge on the battery as per the charger. However, the batt is only showing 12.2 volts with the engine off this is at the terminals, and this is something that is not altogether new for this battery. My understanding is that a standing battery with a full charge, should put out a minimum of 12.6 volts. With the engine running it seems to charge fine, it shows 14.2 volts with the alternator moving. So I put all my tools etc away, and was gonna go for a ride , got back, and its the same old story, will click, but not run the starter, so I went out and rechecked the voltage, its still 12.2, but the negative cable end will still move just a bit when twisted. So that may be the problem a poor connection somehow even with the right tourque. Maybe I need a new cable end and a new battery. Can anyone confirm that the minimum voltage for a battery sitting full charged is 12.6 volts or can 12.2 be considered full charged. Ive checked the water , its good.

 

[targatom]

got my answer

I just watched the files again, with Paul Koerner, he says the minimum for standing batt voltage is 12.5 and mine is only 12.2 so, I guess I need a new battery.

 

[kpic]

After charging, if you are showing 12.2 VDC your battery is at 60%.

Stateofchargepercentagechart.jpg Photo by TheIceman666 | Photobucket

Any search online will yield the same values.

The easiest and wisest solution is a float charger. It is a dedicated charger whose only purpose is to maintain a battery. The difference between a trickle charger and a float charger is a float charger shuts off automatically when the battery is fully charged. A trickle charger keeps on charging until it boils the acid in a conventional lead acid battery. A float charger switches back on when the battery's voltage level drops.
How Does A Float Charger Work?

 

[Toms007]

Well, I was going to say, I think you should have the battery tested, but I think you are right, the battery needs replacing.

 

[dadaroo]

A fully charged battery should be 12.6v ormore. Sounds like weak battery. Brand new batteries are not always fullycharged off the shelf.

It's not 12 volts it's 12.6 because each cell is 2.1 volts.

If the battery is

12.5 = 85% charged
12.4 = 65%
12.3 = 50%
12.2 = 35%
12.1 = drained


Mr. Sam

 

[targatom]

not the battery at all, as per the video standards

I put in another batt out of my truck, it had 12.54 volts just fresh from sitting in the truck for a couple days, it has 12.65 after ten mins on trickle charge.

I also went batt shopping, my locals had a silver pro ac delco on the shelf, 120 minutes reserve capacity, it had not been charged recently, we checked it with both his and my voltmeter, and it also, only threw 12.56 volts.

I also put the corvette batt in the truck, and it starts the truck just fine, keep in mind that the last time I checked it, it was down to twelve volts only. As you recall, after trickle charging the corvett batt was at 12.2 volts.

On the c5, Ive polished every part to eliminate corrosion, put new batt side cable bolts in since mine were a bit rusty, de oxed everything again. Still wont fire the starter to turn the engine, get lots of little noises when I turn the key on. Also I can now unlock the hatch and lift it, now , it would not do so before. Also, I am now aware, that the steering column is not locked, whether the key is in or not, whether the starter works or not. I thought the column was sposed to lock when the key was withdrawn from the ignition switch. Anybody update me on this, if you can give me some ideas to check out , I will check the item.

A fully charged battery should be 12.6v ormore. Sounds like weak battery. Brand new batteries are not always fullycharged off the shelf.

It's not 12 volts it's 12.6 because each cell is 2.1 volts.

If the battery is

12.5 = 85% charged
12.4 = 65%
12.3 = 50%
12.2 = 35%
12.1 = drained


Mr. Sam

 

[dadaroo]

OK, now that you have a good battery and it will not start we can do diagnostics.

Is it a manual or automatic tranny car?

What is the Security light doing when you turn it to Start? ON, OFF, Flashing?

How many miles on the starter?

Did you check connections at the starter? We've seen lots of issues there.

Pull your dash DIC trouble codes and record them. Then delete them and try to start the car again. Pull them again and post anything you see.


Mr.Sam

 

[targatom]

97 wont start has known good battery

FIND ANSWERS BELOW PLEASE


Is it a manual or automatic tranny car?.......................AUTOMATIC,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

What is the Security light doing when you turn it to Start? ON, OFF, Flashing? ,,,,FLASHING,,,,,,,,,,,AND THE SEC LITE IS ALWAYS ON WHEN THE VEHICLE IS RUNNING, WHEN IT RUNS,, ABS IS ALWAYS ON WHEN RUNNING TOO

How many miles on the starter?,,,,,,,,,,,,UNKNOWN,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,CAR HAS 115K MILES , AIR CONDISH AND TRANS IS THE ONLY THING KNOWN TO HAVE BEEN WORKED ON. I BOUGHT IT WITH 113K MILES

Did you check connections at the starter? We've seen lots of issues there.,,,,,,,,,,,,,KIND OF FIGURED MAYBE, A YR AGO MY TRUCK HAD BAD CONNECTION THERE OF SMALL WIRE, POLISHED THE TERMINAL, STARTED FINE

Pull your dash DIC trouble codes and record them. Then delete them and try to start the car again. Pull them again and post anything you see.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I WILL STUDY UP ON HOW TO DO THIS, AND WILL GET BACK TO YOU WHEN I HAVE THE INFO,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,


Mr.Sam[/QUOTE]

 

[dadaroo]

You have a Security issue. Clean you key or try another one. It could be the key. the ignition cylinder sensor, wiring, or the BCM.

Pull your codes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SviRjIsy9G4&list=PL7AcRmt53xvQVwDAGikaqYGw6ZivWB-2K


READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.


Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.

Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........

Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.