Help! A/C Dual Climate Control Problem

[z34ls1]

Greetings,

I got my '01 out Yesterday to take her for a cruise and thought Great my A/C needs charged. I turned my side down to 60 and felt the vents in the middle, and the ones near and on the drivers door, all three of them are blowing hot air. I turned the passenger side down to 60 and the air coming out of the vents was very nice and cold. If anyone has had a similar problem Please chime in. I'm pretty sure the switch for the drivers side is good because if I turn the temp knob up the a/c compressor shuts off and it blows very hot air. I had an old Chevelle that done a similar deal and it ended up being a pencil down in the defroster that kept the flap from closing all the way.

Thanks for your time reading this,
Joe

 

[XLR8]

Hi Joe. There's an actuator in the dash... if memory serves, that's your problem. Mine went in April 2007 and it turned out to be a hairline crack in a plastic gear.

Here's the thread where it was discussed. Sorry the photos aren't better:

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/c5-technical-performance/94652-ac-blowing-cold-hot.html

Jane Ann

 

[gmjunkie]

Greetings,

I got my '01 out Yesterday to take her for a cruise and thought Great my A/C needs charged. I turned my side down to 60 and felt the vents in the middle, and the ones near and on the drivers door, all three of them are blowing hot air. I turned the passenger side down to 60 and the air coming out of the vents was very nice and cold. If anyone has had a similar problem Please chime in. I'm pretty sure the switch for the drivers side is good because if I turn the temp knob up the a/c compressor shuts off and it blows very hot air. I had an old Chevelle that done a similar deal and it ended up being a pencil down in the defroster that kept the flap from closing all the way.

Thanks for your time reading this,
Joe

Hi Joe. There's an actuator in the dash... if memory serves, that's your problem. Mine went in April 2007 and it turned out to be a hairline crack in a plastic gear.

Here's the thread where it was discussed. Sorry the photos aren't better:

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/c5-technical-performance/94652-ac-blowing-cold-hot.html

Jane Ann

Low refrigerant charge will cause this symptom too!~!

You need to pull the codes and go from there!~!!

Post them up,History and Current!

I'm running 2 directions this week,(NC-FL/FL-NC/NC-MO/MO-NC) but I'll be stopping in CAC from time to time!~!!
I'm out in the shop now servicing my ride so I can hit the road,I hope I'm not to old to pull this off!

"Have Truck will Travel"! :L



Pulling codes on C5's
1. Turn your key to the "ON" position, but do not start the engine.
2. Clear any present messages by pressing the RESET button.
3. Hold the OPTIONS button down, and press the FUEL button 4 times. (This will get you into the "codes" section of the DIC.
4. The computer will automatically display all the codes your car has created. It will cycle through each code every 3 seconds. (Have a pen and paper handy to write down the codes)

Note: Any code that ends in an "H" is a history code (something that has occurred in the past, but is not reporting as an error currently.)

5. Once the computer has finished going through all of its codes, press RESET to enter Manual Configuration mode. It should start with a module and show "NO CODES" or "# Codes."
6. To optionally reset codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until is displays "NO CODES."
7. Press OPTIONS to go into the next module (ie, from PCM, or Powertrain Control Module, to TCS, or Traction Control System.)
8. Repeat Step 6 until you have reset all the codes in all the computer modules.

Note: Only reset the codes if you want to- it is not necessary to reset them every time you pull the codes.

9. When finished, simply take your key out of the ignition.

 

[Junkman2008]

Hi Joe. There's an actuator in the dash... if memory serves, that's your problem. Mine went in April 2007 and it turned out to be a hairline crack in a plastic gear.

Here's the thread where it was discussed. Sorry the photos aren't better:

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/c5-technical-performance/94652-ac-blowing-cold-hot.html

Jane Ann

Actually, his actuator is different from the design in your car Jane Ann. The actuator in the 01-04's were redesigned with stop bumps so that they could not over-adjust and create the one side hot, one side cold issue that the 97-2000's experienced. Technicians are now being told that if the old actuators in the 97-00 cannot be fixed, then replace them with the newer design. While a actuator can go bad, the one he has seldom does and the actual problem can be one of two things. As Jesse stated, low R-134a is one problem that can cause this (that was my issue about a month or so ago). Of course this means that there is a leak in the system that needs to be addressed. That could be a fun time (as I just experienced). The second and easiest fix is that the actuator just needs to be reindexed.

To reindex the actuator, follow the following steps:

1. Turn OFF the ignition.

2. Remove the battery positive voltage circuit fuse of the HVAC Control Module (fuse 27). It is located in the passenger's side floor board.

3. Wait 60 seconds.

Important
The module memory will not clear if the battery positive voltage circuit fuse is installed in less than 60 seconds.

4. Install the fuse.

Joe, before you can do any work on these cars, you should ALWAYS pull the codes first. Jesse has posted the instructions on how to pull them. The ones that are specific to the problem you are having will be in the HVAC section. Make sure that you write them down ACCURATELY and include the H or C that appears after each code.

If the R-134a is low, you want to pay to have a evacuation and recovery done so that you know EXACTLY how low the R-134a is. Don't just add some to the system because too much can create its own set of issues. You also need to have some dye inserted into the system so that the leak can be located.

 

[z34ls1]

Thanks for the Great Replies!
I got a buddy who does Heating and Air(Cars too!).

I will try to reindex the Actuator first.

By the way my car did throw a check engine light last Sunday, and it's stuck on now.

I Apologize for not Replying Earlier, My Mom had 3 Pins and a Rod put in her Back Last Saturday so I've been living on the Highway going back and forth visiting.

Thanks Again everyone and I will Post an Update on what it took to correct this problem, I hope it's not a Leak!:ugh

Joe

 

[XLR8]

I stand corrected. Thanks for that guys. That's one of the things I love about this site!
Jane Ann

 

[Junkman2008]

If you post all of your codes, I'll tell you which one is illuminating the MIL. Not all codes illuminate the MIL, just specific ones.

 

[z34ls1]

Codes Thrown

Here's a Follow up.....

I just pulled the codes:
10PCM P0133 C
P1133 H C
P1153 H C

Now that the codes have been pulled I'm going to try to reindex the actuator.

I also noticed that after the PCM codes were shown my '01 advanced to the next module automatically.

 

[z34ls1]

No Luck

Well I pulled the Fuse but still get warm air and noticed also that the drivers side is not blowing as hard as the passenger side is(I don't know if it matters).
Thanks for the Help Guys, I looked up the Codes and found this....

C5 DTC Code Meanings

P0133 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Slow Response Bank 1 Sensor 1

P1133 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Insufficient Switching Bank 1 Sensor 1

P1153 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Insufficient Switching Bank 2 Sensor 1

Maybe related to my Problem?

Maybe because I had the CATS removed?

http://www.metalmeet.com/photopost/data/500/medium/nocats.jpg

Thanks,
joe

 

[Junkman2008]

Okay, any of those three DTC's will illuminate the MIL. Now why did you remove the cat's? I'm sure that has something to do with it.

P0133 is set in this manner. The powertrain control module (PCM) continuously monitors the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) activity for 100 seconds. During the monitoring period, the PCM counts the times that the HO2S responds from rich to lean and from lean to rich, and adds the time it took to complete all transitions. With this information, the PCM can determine the average time for all transitions. If the average response time is too slow, a DTC sets.

The conditions for setting the code are:

• The lean to rich response, defined as less than 300 mV to more than 600 mV, average time is more than a calibrated amount.
• The rich to lean response, defined as more than 600 mV to less than 300 mV, average time is more than a calibrated amount.
• The above conditions exist for 60 seconds.

P1133 and P1153 are set when the HO2S lean to rich and rich to lean switches are less than a calibrated amount. So again, why did you remove the cat's?

 

[z34ls1]

Why did the Cats come off?

The Cats came off in effort to Increase Performance and Mileage. I had a Low mile '92 I sold before this '01 that I had the same thing done to. Both Cars had Stock Exhaust when I got them and were incredibly quiet for Muscle cars IMO. The '92 came Alive with no Cats and Borla Mufflers. The '01 had 4 cats that you could not see through, it's performance was moderate at best. Prior to removing them my friend at RPM Performance who also tunes for Lingenfelters here locally told me I'd need a tune to do that because it would run like $hit, and it did. After the Tune and CATS coming off the car Sounds Great and the Performance Tune is well worth the $100 it cost me. Good sides to the Tune was Mileage Increase, I've done 2 Long Road Trips, Indiana to Maryland, and Indiana to North Carlina and both Trips I averaged just over 32 mpg in 6th gear mind you on Interstates. Another good thing was the Skip Shift was Eliminated. One thing I need to get yet is an Update for the Oil Change Interval, mine always shows 100% Life.

Oh Yeah, I forgot to Mention in Indiana we don't have a Vehicle Inspection.

 

[z34ls1]

Forgot to add this is the first time in 14 months since the Tune this has happened.

 

[Junkman2008]

Well in that case, I've explained why you're throwing those codes. You know what causes them too so now you know exactly what problems to correct.

 

[z34ls1]

Back to the Muffler Shop? Or to the Tuner?

Are you saying that this is why my climate control is not working?

I suppose it's possible, would resetting the codes(which I did not) make the Dual control work again until it throws another one?

 

[Junkman2008]

Back to the Muffler Shop? Or to the Tuner?

Are you saying that this is why my climate control is not working?

I suppose it's possible, would resetting the codes(which I did not) make the Dual control work again until it throws another one?

Absolutely not. Those codes have nothing to do with your AC. What codes is the HVAC showing? You do absolutely NOTHING until you know what your codes are. That is the very FIRST step. No one can give you solid, error free advice without knowing your codes unless the problem is obvious like a brick through your windshield. Then someone can tell you why your car is drafty without pulling the codes. Get my drift?

Whenever you start a thread with questions about your car, post the codes.

 

[z34ls1]

I thought the codes I listed were the correct ones, Sorry.
I don't mean to waste our time, I will go back and pull the codes again and try to get the correct ones.

 

[Junkman2008]

I thought the codes I listed were the correct ones, Sorry.
I don't mean to waste our time, I will go back and pull the codes again and try to get the correct ones.

No. no, no... you are NOT wasting my time. Don't get that feeling. I was just stressing the importance of pulling your codes as a starting point. If I am online answering questions, it is not a waste of time. It is something I enjoy doing.

 

[z34ls1]

No HVAC Codes

No HVAC Codes being thrown, Junkman it seems as if I may have the same problem you had. Time to call my buddy and have him check out the AC System, hopefully no leaks. If the Actuator has gone out would it through a HVAC Code?

 

[Junkman2008]

Yes it would, and the codes would be specific to which actuator is creating the problem. Usually you will see B0441 and/or B0361 if the driver's side is having a issue and B0367 and/or B0446 if the passenger's side is having an issue. Now since you have the newer designed actuator, a reindexing will usually cure the problem if the problem is actuator related and the actuators are not bad. Since you've already tried that, the next thing to try is an evacuation and recovery of your AC system. If I were you, I would go to someone who has a machine that will tell you exactly how much R-134a the machine recovered. When I did this, it showed that I only had .4lbs of R-134a in the system, and I should have had 1.5lbs. That can easily create the condition that you are experiencing.

Your system should have 1.5lbs of R-134a in it also. Too many shade tree mechanics will just add more R-134a to the system, which is the absolute last thing that you want to do without knowing how much is in the system. R-134 is not like the old freon systems. Too much or too little can have adverse affects on how the system works so don't let anyone talk you into trying that as a shotgun repair.

Lastly, if you do not have the correct amount of R-134a, then you have a leak because the system is sealed. If you have to add more R-134a, make sure they add some dye too so that the leak will reveal itself.

 

[z34ls1]

Thanks for the Help! My Buddy can do everything you just said, and also Thanks for telling the Correct amount to have in the system.