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A/C retrofitting for $250?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 87blackroxi
  • Start date Start date
gmjunkie, the smart orfice will adjust to the R134a ? If so sounds like that would be the way to go, no guessing. My system still has the R12 in it and is just a little low, still works but I see the handwriting on the wall.One other thing how do you run the flush through the system? freon pressure or dare you use an air hose seeing how the system needs to be vacumed anyhow.
thanks
Glenn
 
Jeb said:
Why the fan motor resistor? Was that part of the changeover or was it something that needed to be done anyway?

The fan only worked on the 2 lowest speeds. The high speed did not work. So it was from that. I had the choice of $100 for a new one or $35 on a refurbished. Refurbished it was due to $$$$
 
OK, thanks. I've got to do this whole deal soon but I've got the automatic HVAC deal and it's working fine but won't cool worth a tinker's putz.

Brand new trash can, eh? LOL
 
AC retrofit

I recently had my 92 retrofitted and charged. Cost here was just under $200.00 and it is very cold now. Only issue is one I had before, takes much too long for the AC to start to cool after sitting awhile in the heat. Last year at Funfest we were out of the parking field and to the first stoplight in heavy traffic before it kicked in. Is this a trait of 92 Vettes or do I have another problem? thanks
 
Remember this important fact.
Your A/C in the vehicle is not like your refigerator.
It will ONLY cool down to 15 to 20 degree's below ambient tempurature. That's the outside tempurature VS. the inside tempurature.
If you want it cooler jump in a freezer.
Used to be a SLURPEE REPAIRMAN for 9 years with 7-Eleven..
 
I just had my 87 looked at. The system was tighter than a tick but over the past 17 years, had lost some freon. My mechanic added 2 cans of R-12 and some oil and told me that it should be good for another 17 years. $100.00 complete.

I hope he's right.
 
I've done my share of HVAC work and my 81 after 15/16 years lost a bunch of it's R-12. Leak detector has not found any leaks. I use a TIF Automatic Halogen HFC/CFC/HCFC Leak Detector Model TIF5650.
It leaks/permeates thru the rubber hoses and seals. If it's not a hermatically sealed unit it will leak some... If I find that piece of info I'll post it. Back to my school books and notes. Just adding refrigerant bandages the problem. You then get a high head reading cause of moisture in the system. Then you are headed for real problems.

Jeb said:
I just had my 87 looked at. The system was tighter than a tick but over the past 17 years, had lost some freon. My mechanic added 2 cans of R-12 and some oil and told me that it should be good for another 17 years. $100.00 complete.

I hope he's right.
 
An EMPTY factory stock 1981 A/C sytem takes 3 pounds of R-12.
The cycling of the compressor clutch is;
Low Side ON @ 41-51 p.s.i.
OFF @ 20-28 p.s.i.

High Side ON @ 282-351 p.s.i.
OFF @ 138-193 p.s.i.

This is using R-12.
 
That is true, but I am not talking about how cool it gets in relation to the ambient temperature, but the delay until the air coming out ot the ducts shows any sign of cooling. My other GM vehicles start to put out cool air withing 60 seconds after starting the engine and the AC being on. My 92 takes several minutes/miles before the air out of the ducts starts to feel cool at all. Opening the windows doesn't speed up the process. but is a necessity to breathe when it is hot out. I also leave the windows open a bit to try and lower the temp in the car, but this doesn't have much effect either. Thanks for the reply
 
R134a requires a different oil. If the mineral oil used with the R12 isn't changed R134a won't circulate oil in the system and the compressor with seize up. It's the smaller particle thing.

If the system will hold a vacuum, and it must for a shop to legally charge a system, change the acumulator, associated o-rings and oil pump it down and gas it up. You'll be good for a couple of years. An old compressor may have some shaft seal wear, but it should last.

Even if the compressor is worn out a brand new R4 compressor isn't a fortune.

If you want to get cold air for really cheap shoot it with EnviroSafe. You don't even need to change the oil. It will cool better than anything else.
(OK, I know it will burn)

$250 is a good price to do a R134a changeover. The charge has to be right on R134a doesn't cool as good as R12.

JS
 
Oh I see now. Okay. I took apart the Evaporator casing. On the inside it was about 2/3rds full of dead leaves and other debris. That was one of my cooling problems. Also my water heater vacuum valve was not closing all the way due to calcium or whater build up where the seat plugs off the outlet side. Found also the Cold/Hot cable
was routed wrong and missing a clip to hold it steadfast. The plenium door seals all needed replacing, especially the one on the passenger inner fender well, along with adjustments to close or open all the doors. The vacuum tubing connector going to the vacuum switch on top of the heater core housing was on the wrong two nipples (sorry about the description). The vacuum connector that fits on the back of the whole control unit was also leaking causing slow opening of doors as well as partial opening. I know it's a lengthy list but after I corrected all of that I finally have a COOL VETTE. :cool
Now get this, I got the vette in April 1987. I found all these situations in February 2004. Now that's BRUTAL...
Good luck in troubleshooting your situation.
"Problems are never solved. Situations always have a root cause and can be corrected". One of my professor's lines.

04cad said:
That is true, but I am not talking about how cool it gets in relation to the ambient temperature, but the delay until the air coming out ot the ducts shows any sign of cooling. My other GM vehicles start to put out cool air withing 60 seconds after starting the engine and the AC being on. My 92 takes several minutes/miles before the air out of the ducts starts to feel cool at all. Opening the windows doesn't speed up the process. but is a necessity to breathe when it is hot out. I also leave the windows open a bit to try and lower the temp in the car, but this doesn't have much effect either. Thanks for the reply
 
I figured give this tread a boost to the top with all the air cond. questions.
 
Rebirth of an old post. I love it;) . It is that time of year for everyone. Time to crank up the vette and see what works and what doesn't. Well to recap. my car was retrofitted and now has cold a/c, which is a must here in florida, as a few of you already know. Hope the thread helps someone. cause it gave me some knowledge.
Shane
 
134 conversion

Does it cool?
Does it continue to cool after a month or so?
Good deal then.
NAPA sells a conversion kit for $50. Don't know anyone who bought it but the clerk said they sell a ton of them. Even includes 3 cans of 134 and a miscible oil that's touted as making everything compatible with the old and new lubricants and seals.
Too Good To Be True???
Anyone out there tried it?
 
jmccloud said:
Does it cool?
Does it continue to cool after a month or so?
Good deal then.
NAPA sells a conversion kit for $50. Don't know anyone who bought it but the clerk said they sell a ton of them. Even includes 3 cans of 134 and a miscible oil that's touted as making everything compatible with the old and new lubricants and seals.
Too Good To Be True???
Anyone out there tried it?

For the $250 I spent it was well worth it for a mechanic to do. I picked it up 3 hours and was ice cold and still is ice cold. Don't know about that kit though
 
87blackroxi said:
Rebirth of an old post. I love it;) . It is that time of year for everyone. Time to crank up the vette and see what works and what doesn't. Well to recap. my car was retrofitted and now has cold a/c, which is a must here in florida, as a few of you already know. Hope the thread helps someone. cause it gave me some knowledge.
Shane

Yeah I am debating on doing this, or saving the money to do something else, or mod the car. I am just not sure the right way to do it, and how much I want to sink into having the AC work in a car I don't drive all the time, but if I could get it working for 250 I think I would.

All my friends tell me to just get the oil they sell at autozone in the big can, then put three cans of 134 in and you are good to go. I think it is a little more complicated then that.
 

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