Help! A.I.R. smog pump

[crause]

I brought my 2000 convertible to my mechanic (dealer mechanic that does work on the side) and he found that I need to change the A.I.R. smog air pump. He wanted $400 labor to do the job but that sounds like a lot. He says that the unit is located under the headlight on the drivers side. I have found whole assemblies for around $250 and just the pump (use existing housing) for around $140. My question is how hard is it to change this pump? I have searched everything I can find and can't find a video or photo (or even written instructions) on the step by step procedure of this project. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I might be willing to give this a try myself.
Thanks,

 

[crause]

found it

Well, I see that 71 people viewed this post but I guess that nobody knew anything about changing one. I found it and boy am I glad I didn't pay that guy $400 bucks to change it. I jacked up the drivers side of the car and removed about 8 small screws to remove the small section of cowling and then a cover plate and there it was. I pulled the plastic air dam over to the side and was able to easily reach the three bolts that attached it. Unhooked the hoses, unplugged the electrical connector and pulled it out. Very easy, the new one went in just as easy. Didn't even have to take the drivers side tire off. This is an easy do it yourself job, minimal skill required. I was getting the P0410 and after resetting everything I will have to let it cycle through several self checks to make sure it doesn't throw another code.

 

[Huskerman]

Weird no one had ever had to do that before........glad you kept with it and got'er done.....nice work!

 

[crause]

Go figure

I know, it seems to be a common code and lots of people post having the problem. Now I need to figure out how to get to the EGR vacuum solenoid. I am told that it is behind the pass. side front tire. Behind the wheel well liner somewhere. I guess I will do the same thing, just take the tire off and start taking out bolts until I find it.

 

[hotmtrsports]

I brought my 2000 convertible to my mechanic (dealer mechanic that does work on the side) and he found that I need to change the A.I.R. smog air pump. He wanted $400 labor to do the job but that sounds like a lot.

Sounds to me like you have to find a different dealer mechanic that works on the side. He was totally going to rip you off!!!

Chuck M

 

[WLS Ruby 93]

Same thing

I brought my 2000 convertible to my mechanic (dealer mechanic that does work on the side) and he found that I need to change the A.I.R. smog air pump. He wanted $400 labor to do the job but that sounds like a lot. He says that the unit is located under the headlight on the drivers side. I have found whole assemblies for around $250 and just the pump (use existing housing) for around $140. My question is how hard is it to change this pump? I have searched everything I can find and can't find a video or photo (or even written instructions) on the step by step procedure of this project. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I might be willing to give this a try myself.
Thanks,

Thank you for that information as I am about to do the same thing.

I have been getting the good ol' P0410 code as well for the last three months and have tried the usual fixes, WD-40, Seafoam, and whatever sprayed into the tubes to try and free up the passenger side AIR valve and replaced the driver's side valve .... still got the code.

Then I bought a driver's side AIR pipe, the metal one that connects to the manifold, heated it and bent it to fit the passenger's side then rerouted new heater hose with a tee back to the AIR pump.....guess what P0410 shows up again. the original tubing and passenger AIR were left in place.

Now I'm thinking I might need a new AIR pump even though I can hear it running when it kicks on.

The question ..... is there a way to test the pump out of the car to verify that it is working ?

Bill

 

[crause]

I changed the vacuum valve on the side if the air pump as well as the EGR vacuum solinoid which is on the pass. side in the fender behind the front wheel. Was hard to find. It is up high and you can't see the solinoid only the bolt holding it.
Reset all and so far no new code and passed inspection.

 

[Hib Halverson]

Thank you for that information as I am about to do the same thing.

I have been getting the good ol' P0410 code as well for the last three months and have tried the usual fixes, WD-40, Seafoam, and whatever sprayed into the tubes to try and free up the passenger side AIR valve and replaced the driver's side valve .... still got the code.

Then I bought a driver's side AIR pipe, the metal one that connects to the manifold, heated it and bent it to fit the passenger's side then rerouted new heater hose with a tee back to the AIR pump.....guess what P0410 shows up again. the original tubing and passenger AIR were left in place.

Now I'm thinking I might need a new AIR pump even though I can hear it running when it kicks on.

The question ..... is there a way to test the pump out of the car to verify that it is working ?

Bill

Do you have the 98 Factory Service Manual? If you do, have you run the diagnostic tests listed for that code?

 

[WLS Ruby 93]

Diagnosis

Do you have the 98 Factory Service Manual? If you do, have you run the diagnostic tests listed for that code?

Hib,

Yes, I have the 98 FSMs books 1,2,3.

I read through the diagnostics, (Book 3 -- pages 6-629 through 6-631), and do not have a scan tool but have been listening for the pump to turn on and off which it does. So I would assume that the pump relay, fuse and ground are all good since current is being sent to the pump.

When I reset the trouble code and turn off the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) then drive about 20 miles the MIL turns back on (PO410 code) which usually reappears during the second or third start up and after running for a few miles more.

When I get back to the house and the car is at idle, as I open the garage door, the pump will turn on and run several times for about 10 sec each time. So I'm thinking the PCM is checking the AIR system, (not sure on that), and giving it a failure code which of course keeps the light on.

When I get a chance I will check the AIR pump for possible (air) hose leaks as per step 10 page 6-629.

Any other suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks.

Bill