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A question for the CAC technical masters...



Greetings Ladies and Gentlemen, I own a '95 LT-1 Coupe. Since it's storage, I have been out to check the car, and started it to keep the battery alive. Weather has been mild, not as cold as it could have been so far. Well the other day, I sold one of my motorcycles, and had to move the car to get the bikes out of the storage area. Upon putting everything back, and covering the bikes and the car, I had inadvertently left the interior lights on in the car. Now I have a dead battery. I did bring the car home from storage, it is in the garage here now.
My situation is this, when I had returned to the car to bring it home, I attempted to jumpstart the car, connected the jumper cables, and immediately the VATS system engaged and the horn sounded repeatedly, until I reached inside the car and turned the key in the ignition, at first, the starter just clicked, I backed off, and tried it again, this time it started and ran at idle.
The charging system guage showed a negative supply, I'm assuming this was the charge generated by the running alternator, not the available power in the battery. While driving the car home, I played the radio, it had a whine from the engine, on FM stations. through the speakers.
When I pulled it into the garage at home, I turned the engine off and immediately tried to start the car again.....there was NOTHING, no power, no spark, no accessories, not even slightly. I then tried to re-jumpstart it again, the connection to the jumping vehicle didn't even light up the hood/engine compartment lights, no horn, no spark, absolutely dead.
My question is this....did I do something to harm, or ruin the electronics in the car. I bought a new battery, but haven't the proper tools to carry out the replacement. Please email or post here, what ever responses might be of any help.
If it matters, the battery that passed away was a CHAMPION side mount, maintenance free, could likely still be in warranty, as it was purchased before I bought the car. Sale date on the battery is 08/01....TIA for any and all assistance. Jeff, '95 Torch Red LT-1, '71 L-48 Convertible.
Welcome To The Corvette Action Center 95LT-1/TorchCpe!

I hope we can help you.

From the sound of what you describe, if the battery was completely dead when you jumped it and drove it home, you more than likely fried the alternator. You should never use the alternator to try to re-charge a dead battery. :nono

Good luck and let us know how you fare. :upthumbs
Ok lets ask

Are you going to attempt to replace the battery yourself? ( We can talk you thru.)

Are you technically inclined?

Do you have a garage to work in a covered space?

Do you own the following tools
1) 12mm socket & long extension
2) 8mm box end wrench
3) 10mm combo wrench
4) Flashlight
5) Cresent wrench
6) 12 volt test light
7) paperclip ( to act as jumper for accessing the error codes)

Thanks for the quick response.....

Thanks for the help. My perplexing question, is, how deeply could the electronics be affected, by driving the car home? It makes me wonder why the 'jumped' power would not even lite up the dash lites, or idiot lites, or even the under-hood lites. What in the system, would prevent these things from illuminating? The jumpers connections were all positive and secure. I have a new battery for the car already, but found myself woefully short of the needed tools.
Another question: Concerning the lower fastener at the bottom of the left fender panel; Does this screw have to be 'removed' or is 'loosening' it going to be sufficient, to slide the panel out of it's position? Thanks again guys...I sure appreciate it! Jeff
If the gill panel has been removed before, most likely it will have a slot cut in it so you can slide it out. If it has not been removed before, you will have to slot it when you put it back on so that it is easier to remove the next time. It comes from the factory as a hole, not a slot. ;)

_ken :w
Thanks Ken....

Will the rocker panel below the gill panel have to be removed to access the screw, either for removal or replacement of the screw on re-assembly? And, is this a Zerks head screw as well, like the wheel well opening screws? I haven't been under the car yet, just on my hands and knees, to scope things out....and didn't get a good look at the head of the screw/bolt.
dead battery

as ken stated the alt is probably fried the alt is already taxed to the max and these newer style alts are not designed to bring a dead battery back to a fully charged state the full charge rate constantly is the kiss of death for them no cushion at all if any thing else is damaged remains to be seen probably not steve:( :cry :w
Re: Thanks Ken....

95LT-1/TorchCpe said:
Will the rocker panel below the gill panel have to be removed to access the screw, either for removal or replacement of the screw on re-assembly? And, is this a Zerks head screw as well, like the wheel well opening screws?

It is a 10mm bolt if I remember correctly, and no you don't have to remove the rocker panel, or even loosen it. ;)

_ken :w
On mine

I had to loosen the rocker up a bit but removing the two bottom Torx screws were enough to get it with a little force.

And Ken is correct 10mm for the bottom of the side panel, and probably not slotted now.

As far as the conditions of your electronics..
everything is speculation until you get the new batt in. and I would replace the ALT..If it's not gone now it's not far behind..the last thing you want is the alt to fail & it's regulator to blow and over voltage the car.

AND DO NOT GET A PEPBOYS ALT...BUY A DELCO!( find the other alternator posts)


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