Help! Accessing Wires @ Opti?

[Donne Trav]

Ref. '94 LT1: After taking off the drivers-side inner fender linings, I still don't see how I can get to the wires going directly to the Opti on that side. They appear to be routed between what looks like a 5/8" hose and another part of the engine. Also, I'm not familiar with how to loosen the "belt tensioner" to remove the serpentine belt if necessary. One other mystery — the AC & Alternator are bolted together as a unit. Do I swing them out of the way together or just the AC? Just to note, I'm in the process of obtaining a FSM by next week, but I didn't think I would need one for this. Thanks

 

[toptechx6]

It isn't necessary to remove or move the alternator and A/C compressor, work through the opening made by removing the inner fender splash shield, understand it is not easy but it can be done. It helps to raise the front of the car, using a lift, ramps or jackstands, you can remove and install the wires on the drivers side of the cap from the bottom.
To relieve the tension on the serpentine belt it helps to have the special tool designed for the job but it can be done using a 5/8" combination wrench. Working from the drivers side place the tool or wrench on the bolt in the center of the tensioner pulley then pull toward the drivers side, once you have slack in the belt remove it from the alternator and A/C compressor.
Use caution around the temperature sending unit on the water pump, many people break the sensor or connector when doing this job.
After removing the belt remove the tensioner itself, there is just one 14mm bolt, note how the engine side of the tensioner is indexed to prevent rotation when you remove it so you can reinstall it correctly. Removing the tensioner allows better access for wire routing.
Take your time, be patient and you can get this done, but it is not an easy job for anyone including a pro. You will feel a great sense of accomplishment and you can ad a stripe to your technicians uniform when finished.

 

[jmccloud]

Opti wires

Some threads describe loosening (not removing) the power steering pump and moving it forward slightly. The bolts are too deep to reach with a normal socket and an extension is too long so a deep well socket works.
All hearsay but hope it helps.

 

[Curious George]

Toptech's advise is dead on. I replaced my opti a few months back (with wires too) and it is tight in there. Not impossible, but you definately need a game plan or you'll just pull your hair out.

CG

 

[So Bay Vetter]

As one who has also done this, it isn't a fun job. All above info is right on the money. Taking the P/S pump loose from the mounting bracket (without disconnecting any of the hoses) will make the job much easier. The only thing I would add is that factory torque settings are very important!!!! There is one aluminum bracket holding all the pulleys, P/S pump, alternator and A/C. It's much easier than you think to over-torque a bolt and strip the threads in the bracket. Especially the small threaded "shim" holding the idler pulley (different from tensioning pulley). This is notoriously weak and easy to break off. At that point you need a whole new bracket!! Wait for the FSM and use a torque wrench!

Good Luck!

 

[Donne Trav]

It isn't necessary to remove or move the alternator and A/C compressor, work through the opening made by removing the inner fender splash shield, understand it is not easy but it can be done. It helps to raise the front of the car, using a lift, ramps or jackstands, you can remove and install the wires on the drivers side of the cap from the bottom.
To relieve the tension on the serpentine belt it helps to have the special tool designed for the job but it can be done using a 5/8" combination wrench. Working from the drivers side place the tool or wrench on the bolt in the center of the tensioner pulley then pull toward the drivers side, once you have slack in the belt remove it from the alternator and A/C compressor.
Use caution around the temperature sending unit on the water pump, many people break the sensor or connector when doing this job.
After removing the belt remove the tensioner itself, there is just one 14mm bolt, note how the engine side of the tensioner is indexed to prevent rotation when you remove it so you can reinstall it correctly. Removing the tensioner allows better access for wire routing.
Take your time, be patient and you can get this done, but it is not an easy job for anyone including a pro. You will feel a great sense of accomplishment and you can ad a stripe to your technicians uniform when finished.

Is this particular "pulley" the one at far left*— looking from the front of the
vehicle? THANKS

 

[Donne Trav]

It isn't necessary to remove or move the alternator and A/C compressor, work through the opening made by removing the inner fender splash shield, understand it is not easy but it can be done. It helps to raise the front of the car, using a lift, ramps or jackstands, you can remove and install the wires on the drivers side of the cap from the bottom.
To relieve the tension on the serpentine belt it helps to have the special tool designed for the job but it can be done using a 5/8" combination wrench. Working from the drivers side place the tool or wrench on the bolt in the center of the tensioner pulley then pull toward the drivers side, once you have slack in the belt remove it from the alternator and A/C compressor.
Use caution around the temperature sending unit on the water pump, many people break the sensor or connector when doing this job.
After removing the belt remove the tensioner itself, there is just one 14mm bolt, note how the engine side of the tensioner is indexed to prevent rotation when you remove it so you can reinstall it correctly. Removing the tensioner allows better access for wire routing.
Take your time, be patient and you can get this done, but it is not an easy job for anyone including a pro. You will feel a great sense of accomplishment and you can ad a stripe to your technicians uniform when finished.

As stated in my post, AC and Alternator are attached as a unit. Do I
have to deal with each or just the AC. Also, "belt tension pulley"—is
it the pulley on the left—looking from the front? Is it "spring-loaded"
so the belt can be loosened? Or will I be trying to remove "tension
pulley" while the belt is still tight? THANKS ALL

 

[toptechx6]

As I stated the alternator and A/C do NOT need to be moved. The illustration below is from my 93 so verify your belt routing is the same by looking at the label under your hood. (note your 94 does not use the double sided belt mentioned)

in this illustration the large bottom pulley is the crankshaft the small one just above is the spring loaded tensioner (note arrow showing direction to loosen) the small one next to it is an idler, the next large one (in the middle) is the PS pump the alternator is the small one on top the other large one is the A/C compressor.
You release the tension to remove the belt then remove the tensioner.

 

[So Bay Vetter]

Video on removing serp. belt

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