Advice, Connections for Hoisting Engine/Transmission?

[fine69]

When I lifted my engine and Muncie transmission out of its bay (small block 350), I connected the hoist chains to the intake bolts... no problems.

As part of my rebuild, I replaced my heads with Edelbrock 6089 aluminum heads, and intake with Edelbrock Performer RPM - also aluminum.

Would it be safe to connect the hoist chains to accessory bolt holes in the aluminum heads - or perhaps the manifold bolts?

I am worried about the strength of the aluminmum material (opposed to iron) to lift the engine and transmission, but don't see any other likely alternatives.

Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.

 

[vette-dude]

When I lifted my engine and Muncie transmission out of its bay (small block 350), I connected the hoist chains to the intake bolts... no problems.

As part of my rebuild, I replaced my heads with Edelbrock 6089 aluminum heads, and intake with Edelbrock Performer RPM - also aluminum.

Would it be safe to connect the hoist chains to accessory bolt holes in the aluminum heads - or perhaps the manifold bolts?

I am worried about the strength of the aluminmum material (opposed to iron) to lift the engine and transmission, but don't see any other likely alternatives.

Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.

I made a lifting bracket that bolts to the carburator base on the manifold. It is a flat plate with four carb stud mounting holes drilled in it and then a right angle (90 degree) flat stock piece welded down the center of the flat plate. I flame wrenched 3 large holes in this Flat stock plate for the hook from the hoist to fit through. The center hole will bring the engine out almost level. The rear hole will allow the engine and trans to come out almost level and the front hole will give the proper angle to pull the engine or engine and trans on an angle. Used this for years and it has been modified for just about every carb mounting made. You can buy these from various automotive specialty tool houses but they are cheaper to make if you have the tools. I don't like using the chain on the mainfold as it always seem you break some sensor or fitting with a link. Just my $.02.

Randy

 

[JohnZ]

When I lifted my engine and Muncie transmission out of its bay (small block 350), I connected the hoist chains to the intake bolts... no problems.

As part of my rebuild, I replaced my heads with Edelbrock 6089 aluminum heads, and intake with Edelbrock Performer RPM - also aluminum.

Would it be safe to connect the hoist chains to accessory bolt holes in the aluminum heads - or perhaps the manifold bolts?

I am worried about the strength of the aluminmum material (opposed to iron) to lift the engine and transmission, but don't see any other likely alternatives.

Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.

The aluminum is plenty strong enough, assuming you have adequate thread engagement; I use 3/8"-16 Grade 8 bolts. The stock intake bolts are 1-1/4" long, so add the thickness of your chain link and a hardened washer and get bolts that much longer to use during your install. I use a tilter with four chains, and use the extreme four corner intake bolts.

 

[fine69]

I made a lifting bracket that bolts to the carburator base on the manifold. It is a flat plate with four carb stud mounting holes drilled in it and then a right angle (90 degree) flat stock piece welded down the center of the flat plate. I flame wrenched 3 large holes in this Flat stock plate for the hook from the hoist to fit through. The center hole will bring the engine out almost level. The rear hole will allow the engine and trans to come out almost level and the front hole will give the proper angle to pull the engine or engine and trans on an angle. Used this for years and it has been modified for just about every carb mounting made. You can buy these from various automotive specialty tool houses but they are cheaper to make if you have the tools. I don't like using the chain on the mainfold as it always seem you break some sensor or fitting with a link. Just my $.02.

Randy

I've seen these selling at Summit. Thank you for the reply!

 

[fine69]

The aluminum is plenty strong enough, assuming you have adequate thread engagement; I use 3/8"-16 Grade 8 bolts. The stock intake bolts are 1-1/4" long, so add the thickness of your chain link and a hardened washer and get bolts that much longer to use during your install. I use a tilter with four chains, and use the extreme four corner intake bolts.

Hi John,

So, in your opinion it's better to use the intake bolts rather than the accessory bolts that are on the ends of the heads?
Thank you.

 

[JohnZ]

Either way will work, but most of the engines I pull are C1's and C2's that don't have the accessory bolt holes in the ends of the heads.