Aerobody Door Skin Re-Alignment

[EricVonHa]

I thought I'd share this in hopes of seeing if anyone else has seen how their door skins are attached. I had to remove my driver's side panel because the belt-line always had a little "bulge" to it. The most difficult thing in removing the door skin was the removal of the door panel and then also removing most of the hardware that holds the aluminum insert inside the door (the stamped piece that holds the interior door handle, etc)

Well, it looks like the repair is a success and just required that one of the fasteners be re-epoxied to the fiberglass.

What I was curious about is how, if at all, your aerobody door skins are sealed to the original door. On mine there was a gasket like insulator at the front and rear vertical edges of the door. The bottom was wide open.. presumably for water drainage.

Here are some pics:

 

[EricVonHa]

Here is the side view of the car without the skin. Notice all the crap on the outside of the door from years of detailing. Surprisingly... that is the "washed" view. I gently scrubbed it with a sponge and all that stuff was being very stubborn! It's hidden.. so I'm guessing I'm going to leave it. It would definitely take a high speed wheel to get it off.

 

[EricVonHa]

Here is the ID tag that is embedded underneath the resin on the back-side of the panel. Interesting stuff! Anyone else ever see one of these?

 

[EricVonHa]

Here is a shot of the lower brackets that fasten to the very bottom outer edges of the original door. As you can see, there is some rust rot on the bracket. My recommendation? Every time you wash the car-- take it out for a "Jet Dry" ---> At least 150 mph!!

 

[TurboLuigi]

Eric,

I doubt if anyone is going to pull their door skins off out of curiosity :crazy

That was interesting stuff. FYI, I do have the Aerobody Installation Manual if it is of any help.

I thought going at least 100 MPH after washing the car was Standard Operating Proceedure

Luigi
:cool

 

[90Callaway]

I know that The Final Finish uses a bead of silicone sealer around the Aerobody door skin to seal it. You first put the blue auto body masking tape on each side of the gap. Then you run a bead of the black silicone sealer around the gap and smooth it with a wet finger. (Or something similar although that works well.) Then pull the tape off leaving a perfect seal that looks "factory".

I have seen the ID tag before. On the old rear body panel from my car. (I still have it.) Mine has a date on it too.

 

[8388]

Those Dymags look good too

 

[*89x2*]

I know that The Final Finish uses a bead of silicone sealer around the Aerobody door skin to seal it.

Kevin - Dave mentioned that stuff as "3M Window Weld", I have seen this for sale in the caulk tube at Advance Auto parts - a local chain here...

Makes for a nice final finish

 

[*89x2*]

Those Dymags look good too

They do look NICE on the Callaway

 

[EricVonHa]

I thought going at least 100 MPH after washing the car was Standard Operating Procedure

Luigi
:cool

My owner's manual says 150mph. Do you think the later model Callaway's are different?

 

[*89x2*]

I have seen the ID tag before. On the old rear body panel from my car. (I still have it.) Mine has a date on it too.

I have found them on the rear bumper, nose, and rocker gills / skirts - The panels all have the number / date "glassed" in - I think it is a valuable feature that Callaway has done.

(the side gill labels are visible when the hood is popped and you look waayyyyyy down in between the battery & panel)