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Alternator Change

BLACK MOON

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2003
Messages
654
Location
KNOXVILLE, TN
Corvette
15 Shark Grey 3LZ Z06
I'm currently running an alternator with the external regulator. I'm going to upgrade to a bigger alternator. My question is should i use an external regulator or convert to an internal regulator. Suggestions?
 
BLACK MOON said:
I'm currently running an alternator with the external regulator. I'm going to upgrade to a bigger alternator. My question is should i use an external regulator or convert to an internal regulator. Suggestions?

Click on the following link,

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml

and you will learn more about alternators in the next fifteen minutes, then you ever knew.

Stepinwolf
 
BLACK MOON said:
It all sounds like greek to me. Now I'm more confused.

With all due respect, if MadMarks instructions seem to involved for you, don't even think about changing anything in your present setup. Just replace your existing unit with an identical alternator.

This way the replacement will bolt in to the same position, with the same connections, and nothing to think, or worry about. :ugh

Stepinwolf
 
On my 67 deville I am running alot of stereo equiptment in it,I chose to convert to an internally regulated alternator from an ambulance (120 amps)because I wanted to install a high output alternator for the car and I was also in the midst of a bit of rewirieng for the stereo system.

The rebuilder who found and sold me my new alternator explained he would have been able to rebuild the excisting alternator I had to a higher output that could have handled the load no problem.

If I had to do it all again I would have just had mine rebuilt to stronger specs.
 
IH2LOSE said:
On my 67 deville I am running alot of stereo equiptment in it,I chose to convert to an internally regulated alternator from an ambulance (120 amps)because I wanted to install a high output alternator for the car and I was also in the midst of a bit of rewirieng for the stereo system.

The rebuilder who found and sold me my new alternator explained he would have been able to rebuild the excisting alternator I had to a higher output that could have handled the load no problem.

If I had to do it all again I would have just had mine rebuilt to stronger specs.

What did you do with the externally mounted regulator> Just disconnect it or was significant rewiring needed?

Thanks
 
BLACK MOON said:
What did you do with the externally mounted regulator> Just disconnect it or was significant rewiring needed?

Thanks

The wireing to convert was simple.its pretty much a adding some jumpers in the excisting regulator and leaving it in place. But the wireing to carry the addtional current was not so simple.

also on the caddy I had a ton of work to rewire so the idiot light was still able to work some what properly. Right now on my caddy when I have a CD playing with a lot of bass and the sub is hitting hard my "Gen" light is flashing with each hard hit of the sub. Unless your adding a high end stero (whitch I dont see would fit in our cars) I would suggest having Ken Bruno motor sports out of up state new york building you a high out put exsternally regulater alternator

Why do you want high out put internally regulated
 
IH2LOSE said:
The wireing to convert was simple.its pretty much a adding some jumpers in the excisting regulator and leaving it in place. But the wireing to carry the addtional current was not so simple.

also on the caddy I had a ton of work to rewire so the idiot light was still able to work some what properly. Right now on my caddy when I have a CD playing with a lot of bass and the sub is hitting hard my "Gen" light is flashing with each hard hit of the sub. Unless your adding a high end stero (whitch I dont see would fit in our cars) I would suggest having Ken Bruno motor sports out of up state new york building you a high out put exsternally regulater alternator

Why do you want high out put internally regulated

I am adding a stereo, amplifiers and for my MSD. I was told this would help all get truer voltage.
 
Larry, not meaning to hi-jack this thread but I have an easy solution for you for the caddy and your stereo system drawing a lot during heavy bass music.
PM or email me and I think I can get that fixxed up for you without much trouble.

back to the alternator discussion........... sorry to interrupt Black Moon.
 
BLACK MOON said:
I am adding a stereo, amplifiers and for my MSD. I was told this would help all get truer voltage.

The msd is not a high load,stereo not a high load. But your amps if you have picked it all readey may have a high load send me the specs on the amps.

Barry is going to be installing a secondary fuse block on his car to take the load off of his excisting wiring harness to power up his a/c and his head lamps.

I would think this would be simpler to accomplish,then converting to an internally regulated alternator
 
Larry
quick correction. What I'm considering is not a secondary fuse block but rather a secondary terminal block called the CN-1 that was suggested on the MAD Electric website.
 
magicv8 said:
I got a $70 135amp replacement alternator from alterstart and it plugged in.

That's the same one I got. Plugs right in.

Same with the solid state regulator from J.C. Whitney. $9.95, plugs right in.
 
Magic, Paul

on the 135amp replacement alternator, you say it plugs right in so that's great and makes it easy. Does it cometically look similar to the stock alternator? I'm trying to retain as much of a stock appearance as possible.
Same question on the regulator although I'm already assuming that the regulator must look very different and probably smaller since it's soild state rather than mechanical like the original type.
 
I rebuild these old alternators. Extremely easy to do if you have a press. I have rebuilt all of my (non original) alternators with 100 amp fields and armatures. I run the MSD, halogen headlights, a 45wx4 stereo and all the usual stuff with absolutley no problems. I'm sure you'll be fine with a rebuild 135amp external regulator alternator.

I guess this response is to BarryK (???). I too have ordered the CN-1 connector post but if you listen to Mark @MAD Electric, he will tell you that CAN NOT run a lot of power off of that block because the Ammeter will not read that load accurately. Every time I have an electrical question, I lie down till it passes or I make sure I break down in VNV's driveway:_rock
 
I guess i need to figure out what i have in the car and then look for options. I know i was getting week voltage before the disassembly. I have replaced the engine wiring harness
 
Just out of curiosity, why do you think you have weak voltage? Heck, I ran one of the cars with the base 37A alternator for a while. Ammeter looked a little scary but it got me home. I'LL BE DARNED...MY SMILIES DON'T WORK
 
Barry, the new Alt looks just like the old one and you can swap the pulleys, and you can't tell the regulator from the original if you swap the covers (2 screws). Physical dimensions are the same.
 
awesome Paul, thanks!
I looked in the Alterstart website and the JC Whitney catalog but can't seem to find the correct items.
do you happen to have the part numbers?

I called today to see how much it would be to have my current alternator rebuilt to larger capacity and a new regulator and it looks like buying a new replacement unit would be about the same price so I might as well go with a new unit rather than fooling around with mine.
My current one isn't the original anyway so no need to worry about keeping it for any special reason.
 

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