The "rubber" expansion filler that goes inside my clutch reservior almost fills the entire reservoir. It is like a large thimble in shape. You can't get very much fluid in it as a result. Is this normal? I'm used to a pleated filler in other applications.
LT4 Another Clutch Master Cylinder Question-LT4
- Thread starter 96CERon
- Start date
1996 LT4 Topic
- Thread starter
- #3
LT4man
Well-known member
Ron,
That is a nice combination. Very sleek and stealthy!
How did your clutch master cylinder do? :confused
If you want to check out some more pics of my car: Mid America Motorworks featured the car on the covers of their C4 catalogs. I have them posted here in the Off Road Lounge. They are pretty cool. At least I think so!
Is the LT4 engine AWESOME or WHAT?!? Have you done any mods to yours?
I have so MUCH fun driving mine......even in traffic! :L
Save The Wave!
Gregory
That is a nice combination. Very sleek and stealthy!
How did your clutch master cylinder do? :confused
If you want to check out some more pics of my car: Mid America Motorworks featured the car on the covers of their C4 catalogs. I have them posted here in the Off Road Lounge. They are pretty cool. At least I think so!
Is the LT4 engine AWESOME or WHAT?!? Have you done any mods to yours?
I have so MUCH fun driving mine......even in traffic! :L
Save The Wave!
Gregory
- Thread starter
- #5
All aluminum radiator from Ron Davis here in Phoenix. Got tired of plastics ends failing. Had "fun" experience with this.
Stage II clutch and Fidanza Flywheel from Carolina Clutch. Had an even more fun experience with this one. Really got an education on how not and how to do this and the plus and minus of this conversion.
Lost my fuel pump last week--was easy to diagnos and replace in the evening--even Auto Zone stocked a Delco unit.
Now I'm thinking I need to get ready to add the Delteq ignition before the Opti bites me.
As far as the clutch master, it just seems you can't get very much fluid in the resevoir with the espansion filler and I have had it go almost dry and started loosing pedal.
Stage II clutch and Fidanza Flywheel from Carolina Clutch. Had an even more fun experience with this one. Really got an education on how not and how to do this and the plus and minus of this conversion.
Lost my fuel pump last week--was easy to diagnos and replace in the evening--even Auto Zone stocked a Delco unit.
Now I'm thinking I need to get ready to add the Delteq ignition before the Opti bites me.
As far as the clutch master, it just seems you can't get very much fluid in the resevoir with the espansion filler and I have had it go almost dry and started loosing pedal.
CyberFire 12
Member
Does your clutch M/C lose fluid?
My 90 seems to yet I can't find any obvious leak. I have the rubber filler also and it seems to take very little fluid in the bowl. When I woke it up from its winter sleep, I had a problem getting it into gear. After some yelling, I checked the M/C and found it was nearly dry. A few drops of fluid and everything came back to life.
A few Q's-where would the fluid go?, How often does it need to be changed?, also as luck would have it, I removed the ECM to get at the M/C bowl and promptly dropped and lost one of the nuts, What type of replacment can I get?
My 90 seems to yet I can't find any obvious leak. I have the rubber filler also and it seems to take very little fluid in the bowl. When I woke it up from its winter sleep, I had a problem getting it into gear. After some yelling, I checked the M/C and found it was nearly dry. A few drops of fluid and everything came back to life.
A few Q's-where would the fluid go?, How often does it need to be changed?, also as luck would have it, I removed the ECM to get at the M/C bowl and promptly dropped and lost one of the nuts, What type of replacment can I get?
- Thread starter
- #7
There is just so little in the reservior, I believe it evaporates. I see no leakage at the slave cyclinder and I had the same problem--lost clutch pedal and had a hard time shifting--put more fluid in and then OK. I would recommend using the GM clutch fluid. It has additives and conditioners for the seals. My ECM is held in with two, I believe it is a metric sheet metal screw. They take a 7mm socket. I would go to the dealer or a specialty hardware store or maybe even Toyota.
LT4man
Well-known member
Ron,
Could you tell me about the experience you had with the new clutch assembly and flywheel? I have been investigating options for myself. Mine is working perfectly, but you never know.....
Save The Wave!
Gregory
Could you tell me about the experience you had with the new clutch assembly and flywheel? I have been investigating options for myself. Mine is working perfectly, but you never know.....
Save The Wave!
Gregory
S
shawn tallent
Guest
hey guys the rubber piece in the reservoir cap should push down to where it is almost even with the lip of the cap , it shouldn't be sticking down inside the reservoir , just had mine drained & bleed buy the local race shop works great now!!!!!!
Kevin Doyle
Well-known member
When my master cylinder went out it was leaking inside the car and running down clutch pedal onto carpet.Kevin.
- Thread starter
- #11
Flywheel replacement
Here is my experience with replacing the dual mass junk. Had to take it up and down twice. Definitely not fun. So here are recommendations and results summary:
1. Bought the Stage 2 kit from Carolina Clutch--came with a stamped note on disc--flywheel side which was wrong--spring hub has to go with springs to the flywheel side. Yeah if you work at it yu can install it backwards and then can’t get the transmission installed. Also comes with a Valeo pressure plate that appears identical to the old unit. You need the spring hub disc because the original is a solid disc and you must have a spring hub disc since the dual mass provides this function normally.
2. Absolutely have the Fidanza match balanced to the old dual mass--find a good shop with latest balancing equipment--Windows based system. I learned this the hard way and had to take mine back out after initial install--terrible vibration above 3000. Found out that the external balance weight on my Fidanza was 30.5gms to heavy. This is many pounds at 3000 rpm. Also do not use the bolts and washers provided--order flywheel bolts with HARDENED washers from ARP (Summit).
3. Read the removal-install procedure from zfdoc.com and order the beam plates from him also. It is a real PITA trying to get at and hold the nuts on top of the drive shaft beam. The plates are also reported to improve stability on hard shifts--see zfdoc.com
4. Make sure that the fork ball is tight and the lock is also tight. Use ONE drop of blue lock tight on the lock only--my fork ball was unscrewing itself which is what got me into this to start with.
5. Drain and refill transmission with 10-60 Castrol from you local BMW dealer.
6. With everything back together after the match balancing, the results are: Very slight vibration at 3500 but I’m not sure that it wasn’t there before. The dual mass was balanced after engine assembly and has little weights added to the flywheel perifery. Noticeable gear clatter at idle in neutral—sounds like a diesel. I just say—racing transmission designed by people who didn’t know how to fix problems designed out of transmissions 40 years ago. Noticeable gear clatter/resonance of clutch hub springs(I think) between 1000 and 2000 with moderate to heavy acceleration but you can drive around this. Can't hear it in 6th. Easier shifting. Faster acceleration by seat of the pants especially in lower gears and I only spent the price of a dual mass flywheel other than the 4 days taking it up and down twice. I did buy a transmission jack from Harbor Freight. Yes, the ligher flywheel is worth 300-400 pounds in virtual weight reduction in low gear and gets less as you go up in gears. No driveability problems with the light flywheel. Hope this helps.
lt4man said:Ron,
Could you tell me about the experience you had with the new clutch assembly and flywheel? I have been investigating options for myself. Mine is working perfectly, but you never know.....
Save The Wave!
Gregory
Here is my experience with replacing the dual mass junk. Had to take it up and down twice. Definitely not fun. So here are recommendations and results summary:
1. Bought the Stage 2 kit from Carolina Clutch--came with a stamped note on disc--flywheel side which was wrong--spring hub has to go with springs to the flywheel side. Yeah if you work at it yu can install it backwards and then can’t get the transmission installed. Also comes with a Valeo pressure plate that appears identical to the old unit. You need the spring hub disc because the original is a solid disc and you must have a spring hub disc since the dual mass provides this function normally.
2. Absolutely have the Fidanza match balanced to the old dual mass--find a good shop with latest balancing equipment--Windows based system. I learned this the hard way and had to take mine back out after initial install--terrible vibration above 3000. Found out that the external balance weight on my Fidanza was 30.5gms to heavy. This is many pounds at 3000 rpm. Also do not use the bolts and washers provided--order flywheel bolts with HARDENED washers from ARP (Summit).
3. Read the removal-install procedure from zfdoc.com and order the beam plates from him also. It is a real PITA trying to get at and hold the nuts on top of the drive shaft beam. The plates are also reported to improve stability on hard shifts--see zfdoc.com
4. Make sure that the fork ball is tight and the lock is also tight. Use ONE drop of blue lock tight on the lock only--my fork ball was unscrewing itself which is what got me into this to start with.
5. Drain and refill transmission with 10-60 Castrol from you local BMW dealer.
6. With everything back together after the match balancing, the results are: Very slight vibration at 3500 but I’m not sure that it wasn’t there before. The dual mass was balanced after engine assembly and has little weights added to the flywheel perifery. Noticeable gear clatter at idle in neutral—sounds like a diesel. I just say—racing transmission designed by people who didn’t know how to fix problems designed out of transmissions 40 years ago. Noticeable gear clatter/resonance of clutch hub springs(I think) between 1000 and 2000 with moderate to heavy acceleration but you can drive around this. Can't hear it in 6th. Easier shifting. Faster acceleration by seat of the pants especially in lower gears and I only spent the price of a dual mass flywheel other than the 4 days taking it up and down twice. I did buy a transmission jack from Harbor Freight. Yes, the ligher flywheel is worth 300-400 pounds in virtual weight reduction in low gear and gets less as you go up in gears. No driveability problems with the light flywheel. Hope this helps.
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