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Another no-start problem



On Monday, I go out to my car in the morning to go to work. Turn the key, dash lights up, everything looks good, engage starter, and no starter. Leave the car at home and take my Tiburon to work. :cry I come home try the starter, and it worked. I go to fill up with gas, and when I try to start after filling up, no start again. I try for 40 mins to start the car, but no luck. I get a tow truck to take my car home.
On Tuesday I try again, no start.
Today (Wednesday), I remove the starter and test it against a 12 volt battery, it works.
The question is, do you think that it is the neutral start switch that is faulty, or is it the dreaded VATS being set every time I put the key in the ignition. I have tried another key with the same no start.
Where exactly is the neutral start switch on an 86 4+3? I have removed the hush panel and tried to look at the clutch pedal, but I cannot see any switch. Totally :confused now!!!!



Gone but not forgotten
Jan 30, 2001
Hermosa Beach, CA
1987 Z51 Silver Coupe


Active member
Aug 17, 2001
86 Pace Car 31,000 miles
Hi Scottie,
I believe your VATS is engaging. I just went through that with my 86. Does your vette still have the original keys and switch or were they replaced at any time that your aware of?
There is a new switch that G.M. uses to replace the original with a key that is a little longer.
Take your ignition key to any G.M.dealer and have the code read and get a new switch. It is not too hard to replace.
I havn't had a no start problem since I replaced my switch, There was a service bullitin back in 87 and 88 about replacing switches for no start problems.
The switch P/N 26008775.
Also if you go up to the Knowledge base and get into the C-4 section then electrical & ignition you will see a section on no start.
Hope this helps !!


Thanks guys.

Ken, I had read those threads before posting, and that's why I started with the starter. I wanted to at eliminate that side of the equation.

Hoosier, I checked the reistance on my key (1876 ohms) and I will buy a Radio Shack resistor and insert it into the connector under the hush panel. If it works then I will replace my switch an get new keys. Any idea of the cost of a new switch?

Another update: Last night I tried to push start. No go. Sure looks like VATS.



Problem now resolved!!!!

I read the resistance of my key, 1860 ohms, and went to a local electronic shop. I bought two 910 ohm resistors, and installed them on the connector running to the relay from the ignition switch. Worked like a charm. That points to the ignition switch as being faulty. I have left enough wire so I can install a hidden switch to give a 0 ohm reading and disable starting.

Thanks to all.



You don't say if you have an auto or manual.
I don't know if manual has a neutral start interlock, but my auto had a very similar occasional problem. It was the park/neutral switch. You can try putting it into neutral, and then try to start, or hold the ignition in start position and "rock" the shifter back and forth, if any of this will let it start - then it is likely the park/neutral switch. It can be found by removing the console, and is located just at the forward foot of the shift lever. Can be a PITA to get to. (If you have manual shift - ignore all the above).

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