Arrrrrgggghhhhh!!! Damned oil pressure gauge!

[fhturner]

Well, my '98 coupe had the oil pressure sending unit problem (needle pegged on 80psi, DIC readout showing 130psi), but I was relieved to find that upon picking up my 2000 coupe, it did not. But what do I notice while cruising around after work today? As I'm scrolling through the Gauges in the DIC to get to coolant temp from tire pressure, I realize that the 130 I've just zoomed by for the oil pressure seems wrong-- 130psi. Then I flash back to my '98's problem, and take a look at the needle. Sure enough, pegged @ 80. Dammit!!! ad

I've put 6600+ miles on the thing, and I thought I was in the clear, but I guess there's no getting around a crappy sending unit design (or construction). Of course, my car is well out of warranty at 4+ years and 66000 miles. I know the part is inexpensive, but it takes about $300-400 worth of labor just to get to it. Does anyone know of a GM/Chevrolet satisfaction phone # I can call to voice my dissatisfaction? I didn't mind it too badly on the '98, because I knew it was a fairly common issue. But to have it happen again after I've had my 2000 for a while (after already having it happen on the '98!) just steams me up!!! ad

L8r,
Fred

 

[Blade]

Never tried this myself so proceed at your own risk!

It is possibile you have some trash in your DIC memory, here is a way to clear it just like when you need to hard boot your PC because it is acting goofy.

You can acess all of the cars trouble codes from the dic and erase them! I know it works on my 99 but, I am not so sure on the earlier C5's. Here is what you do: Press and hold options and then press Fuel 4 times while still holding the options button you must do this quickly. A message will appear saying "Diagonstics" then it will automatically read off the codes. Like....02-PCM(No codes)....03-BCM(No Codes)...ect. if there is a code it will look something like this 02-PCM (1052H) NOTICE THE H at the end of the code, That represents a code that has happened in HISTORY. If there is a C after the code it is CURRENT. To clear the codes let it automatically cycle through the codes then it will come to (MANUAL DIAGNOSTICS) this is where you can clear codes. Use the options button to scroll forward and the TRIP to scroll backward find the code(s) to be erased like 02-PCM (2Codes). To erase this, press and hold the reset button until it says "NO CODES" There you have done it!!!. To exit the Diagonstic menu press the METRIC BUTTON!!!

 

[fhturner]

Weird!

Well, this morning, it seemed to want to work a little bit. A few times, it tended to start drifting off toward the upper peg (80psi), but for the most part, it was in the middle of the range where it is supposed to be. I won't hold my breath, though-- it's probably just being temperamental in preparation for complete and utter failure. I might try to clear my PCM codes, but since this problem is usually a failed sending unit, I won't hold my breath for that either...

L8r,
Fred

 

[VETTEX2]

$300-400 labor ?
I did mine in an hour and 15 minutes.
I could probably do it again in 45 minutes.

 

[fhturner]

$300-400 labor ?
I did mine in an hour and 15 minutes.
I could probably do it again in 45 minutes.

Re-he-heally?! I was just going by what c4c5specialist (I believe) had said it would probably cost in a thread long ago. I have the service manuals, but since it only happened yesterday, I haven't yet looked up the procedure to see if I should try it. I had planned to take a look, but this might get me motivated to get going if it isn't that difficult.

In any case, what causes these darned things to fail, and why so freakin' often? Is there a better part for replacement than the GM part that I'll likely obtain at my local dealership?

 

[VETTEX2]

Re-he-heally?!

yes !

http://corvetteforum.com/techtips/viewsubtopic.php?SubTopicID=246&TopicID=1

 

[fhturner]

Thanks for the info and the link, VETTEX2!

In checking with my dealership parts guy, he says the part #(12562230) I gave him (from the link you sent) is not the one listed in his system for a 2000 Vette. He does have the part, but the price (somewhat below list) would be $38.17 on that one. OTOH, he does show part #'s 15369305 & 15326388 as being applicable to a 2000 Vette, and they are significantly cheaper, $16.03. In my parts manual, #15369305 looks to be the correct one:

SENSOR, ENG OIL T/GA (AC-DELCO #213-794) 00-01 Y(LS1)

I've attached a PDF screenshot of the parts in question from my manual. The SENSOR listed above is #426 in the diagram. I have not yet spotted #15326388 in my parts manual yet. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Fred

 

[fhturner]

Questions about Corvette Forum How-To

Been looking at that How-To link. It says you can reuse the Intake Gaskets. Is it better to get new ones, though? I've seen other posts stating that you need new ones. What's correct/advisable? Any particular things I need to do to reuse the old ones? Will I need any sort of sealer (the instructions simply say to bolt the Intake back in place)?

For clarification on the first step, do I have this right?

coil covers ?= valve covers
air bridge ?= tube leading from filter to engine
wires connecting to injectors -- easy to spot?

TIA,
FT

 

[fhturner]

Intake manifold seems stuck!

Hey Guys--

Could use a little help at this point. I've begun the process and have gotten to the part where I need to slide the intake manifold forward. However, while I can lift it up a little bit, I cannot move it forward. It seems like it is sticking somewhere underneath about 2/3 the way from the front to the back (of the manifold). I can rock it back and forth and lift up on it some, but it definitely seems stuck up under there. I didn't want to force anything, so I came up here to beg for assistance. VETTEX2 or anyone else, what should I do here? Any tips? And, while I'm at it, any DOs and DON'Ts you can think of during this procedure?

Thanks!
Fred

P.S. I'm attempting the technique (linked to above) where you do not fully remove anything, just get the manifold loosened up enough to slide it forward...

 

[SSTibet]

Hey, bring the car to Turkey. Labor is cheap here; we can get it fixed for 20 bucks at the most )))

 

[VETTEX2]

double check that the hoses are disconnected.
I also pulled the TB.
be careful, to reconnect the little black vac line to the rubber " L " in the back of the manifold.

Hey Guys--

Could use a little help at this point. I've begun the process and have gotten to the part where I need to slide the intake manifold forward. However, while I can lift it up a little bit, I cannot move it forward. It seems like it is sticking somewhere underneath about 2/3 the way from the front to the back (of the manifold). I can rock it back and forth and lift up on it some, but it definitely seems stuck up under there. I didn't want to force anything, so I came up here to beg for assistance. VETTEX2 or anyone else, what should I do here? Any tips? And, while I'm at it, any DOs and DON'Ts you can think of during this procedure?

Thanks!
Fred

P.S. I'm attempting the technique (linked to above) where you do not fully remove anything, just get the manifold loosened up enough to slide it forward...

 

[cavettefan]

Hey, bring the car to Turkey. Labor is cheap here; we can get it fixed for 20 bucks at the most )))

Yeah, right.... You might be able to get the car fixed for $20 bucks, but what about the cost to get the car to Turkey????

I realize the post was in jest; however, fhturner is stuck and needs help.

 

[fhturner]

double check that the hoses are disconnected.

Thanks for the tips. Any hoses in particular? I'm looking to see if there are any still connected that could be causing the resistance to move. Does my sense that the manifold is sticking underneath seem logical, or is that just an incorrect perception, you think?

Thanks again!
Fred

 

[fhturner]

Failure looks imminent

Well, now I'm thinking that I've made a horrible mistake by trying to do this myself. Paying someone else $300 to fix that POS oil pressure sensor doesn't sound so outrageous anymore. I just spent another $#@*%*$#@&$ hour+ trying to get that stupid intake manifold off. I swear it will not budge. I can lift it up and wiggle it about, but it won't move more than an 1/8" forward. I cannot see any hoses that might be causing this. Besides, if there are any hoses at the back that are in the way, there's no way in hell I can reach them unless the manifold comes forward first. I'm making sure to lift up on the back 2 bolts, and I'm sure they are not catching.

I've looked in three different places to try to figure this out, and feel that I'm chasing my tail. I've checked the inadequately detailed instructions at CorvetteForum, the more detailed, but still inadequate instructions at LS1HowTo, and the confusing GM service manual (sure looks easy to remove all of this stuff when it's OFF THE FREAKIN' CAR). Special thanks to GM for choosing such a poorly designed/engineered part with such a high failure rate and then putting it in such a ridiculously hard to reach place.

Sorry to rant on an on, but dammit, I'm seriously frustrated here. I can only hold my temper in check for so long... This shouldn't be this hard. I shudder to think of the difficulty I'd encounter if I were to actually try to do something to the engine itself, and not just the manifold sitting way up on top...

And to ice the cake, I can now hardly walk because, due to leaning over the engine bay for so long, my knees feel like they are supposed to bend the other way now.

Fred

 

[HDRidingCowboy]

hose

Look under the frount of the MAP for a short cooling hose that might be keeping you from moving it forward as its very short and you cant move it much untill you remove the clap and take off the hose. Its about 3/4 of a inch in diameter just about where the air bridge attaches to the MAP, oh is on the drivers side of it. Hope this helps.