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Auto to 5 or 6 speed?

Craig there is insufficient resolution to see any detail because of the thumbnail. If you don't mind please email the actual pictures to me at john.mcquaid@comcast.net.

Thanks
John
 
John
I e-mailed the Hi res to you if you need more pics let me know.
Craig sr
 
I installed the Keisler Tremec 5 speed in mine last year. So far I have put about 1500 miles on the tranny. It is sweet. I am now running about 2000 RPM @80 MPH. The tranny is a direct bolt in. There is no cutting of your car required. I had a 4 speed car so the crossmember is welded in. The shifter came up through the floor with no modifications to the floor. The shifter looks as stock as the factory shifter. The Keisler kit comes with all the required hardware. The driveshaft has been shortened. As you can tell I am happy with mine. My 16 year old son helped me lift the tranny in the car. Since then I have been adding miles.

80mph_2000rpm.jpg
 
Are the starters on a manual & auto different

Clutch linkage, pedals are in, Flywheel is on and the trans delivers tomorrow. Are the starters on a manual & auto different? It appears the nose of my started won't fit the 621 bellhousing.

Still waiting on a dial indicator and stand to come in does anyone know if this is a real big deal if I am using a stock bellhousing? I am not sure I could do a whole lot about a misalignment anyway except go to an aftermarket unit and a relocator kit.
John
 
What to measure?

John, You're getting ahead of me! I pulled my engine over the weekend and test fit flywheel, clutch, bellhousing and everything seems to fit OK. I didn't think to try the starter, but did compare the flywheel to the flexplate I removed and found the diameter and teeth were identical. I can't think of any reason the starter wouldn't fit in the bellhousing. I'm using one of the high torque mini-starters.

Also, please explain what you're planning to measure with the dial indicator. I didn't think there was anything that needed setting up with critical tolerances. Let me know if there's something I need measure.

Keep up the good work,

Phil
 
Hi John , I had the same problem with starter interference going into the bell hsg. The bad part was I had just purchased the starter new and only ran the car a few times . I replaced it with one of the new mini style units . Indicating the bell housing is a big deal , I have installed quite e few in the 40+ plus years I wrenched in the trade . The unit I installed when I put the tremec in was the first one I did NOT have to relocate . The misalignment of the bell leads to all sort of problems down the road , typically the car will start to mysteriously come out of high gear as you are cruising along . The input shaft misalignment resulting from the bell problem just ruins the spigot bearing etc etc . Do yourself a big favor and check your setup , better safe than sorry . If you have any questions or problems give a shout ,,,,,,


geo
 
Hi Phil, Not racing but very excited to get my vet back on the road. I noticed another post concerning the starter and apparently it is a problem. I will probably go with something smaller and a bit stronger than stock. The starters is not very old but I raised the compression a lot during my rebuild last year.

I would try your bellhousing I did just to make sure I weilded the frame bracket correctly. Works like a champ:L

As far as the dial indicator here is a link to a procedure don't get upset its on a mustang but the process is the same, the pictures n this how to are pretty good http://www.dfwstangs.com/tech/tranny/index2.html I am not sure how I would relocate a stock belhousing but I am sure someone on the forum knows....... I would suggest doing it just to prevent future trouble but there are people on our forum with a lot more mechanical knowledge than me. I ordered the stand and mount for arround 30.00 from Harbor Frieght. Assuming it works be happy to loan it to you.
John

90 KOTH said:
John, You're getting ahead of me! I pulled my engine over the weekend and test fit flywheel, clutch, bellhousing and everything seems to fit OK. I didn't think to try the starter, but did compare the flywheel to the flexplate I removed and found the diameter and teeth were identical. I can't think of any reason the starter wouldn't fit in the bellhousing. I'm using one of the high torque mini-starters.

Also, please explain what you're planning to measure with the dial indicator. I didn't think there was anything that needed setting up with critical tolerances. Let me know if there's something I need measure.

Keep up the good work,

Phil
 
Geo I will do that, I am definitaly out of my element but I am going to try anyway. Will do on the starter. How do you relocate a stock bellhouse short of taking to a machine shop? I don't want to remove the engine it has not really been in very long.
John

4 webers said:
Hi John , I had the same problem with starter interference going into the bell hsg. The bad part was I had just purchased the starter new and only ran the car a few times . I replaced it with one of the new mini style units . Indicating the bell housing is a big deal , I have installed quite e few in the 40+ plus years I wrenched in the trade . The unit I installed when I put the tremec in was the first one I did NOT have to relocate . The misalignment of the bell leads to all sort of problems down the road , typically the car will start to mysteriously come out of high gear as you are cruising along . The input shaft misalignment resulting from the bell problem just ruins the spigot bearing etc etc . Do yourself a big favor and check your setup , better safe than sorry . If you have any questions or problems give a shout ,,,,,,


geo
 
Well the 6 speed is in and it was quite the challenge. Might have been easier to pull the motor. I ordered a cross member from Bowtie but its not even close. I guess tommorow I will start cutting up the factory cross member and get the drive shaft to the machine shop.
Thanks
All
 
I allways pull the motor and trans as a unit, just lazy; but to me it is easier that way:L

When I put in my TKO all I had to modify was the bracket that the trans mounts to.
 
I wish I had pulled the engine too, between getting the trans in and spending a day fitting the modified crossmember my back and shoulders are hurtin......:( But on a lighter note that shifter sure looks nice even if there isn't a console around it yet. going early tomorrow to have the drive shaft cut, balanced, and fitted with one 1350 end to connect to the Viper slip yoke. Speedo cable too short and I have not received the backup light connection. Lots of small things.
John


bossvette said:
I allways pull the motor and trans as a unit, just lazy; but to me it is easier that way:L

When I put in my TKO all I had to modify was the bracket that the trans mounts to.
 

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