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Backfires!!!

72LT-ONE

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 22, 2003
Messages
51
Location
Rancho Cordova
Corvette
1972 Sunflower LT-1
My 72 LT-1 backfires thru the carb between the rpm range of 1900-2500. I makes no difference if it's under load or not. The car has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points. It has done this since I have owned it, which has only been a couple of months. I am in the process of repairing it and although it is drivable it runs like crap.

Thanks in advance,

Mike
 
Other than checking your ignition timing, make sure that the plug wires are routed correctly to the correct cylinder.
 
there is the possability of a worn cam shaft issue . i would check the secondary ignition first wires, plugs and the cap and rotor for carbon tracking. may also be time for points and condensor do the easy checks first steve:w
 
New Stuff

All components are new, points, plugs, rotor, wires, cap. If I accelerate from 750 rpm thru 3500 rpm in first gear it does not seem to do it, or if i'm crusing in 2nd gear at 1000 rpm and accelerate thru 3500 rpm I get the same results, no backfire. Now i'm thinking it may be a carburator issue. What do you guys/gals think? It has the original 4150 (used on all LT-1's in 72) and I do not know if it has been rebuilt. What would be a good replacement for this stock carb? I need to get this thing running as it is to cold to ride my bike.

I have read something about crossfiring of #3 and #5 cylinders what's going on there?

Thanks,

Mike
 
Sounds like the carb is running too lean. Make adjustments to it before you buy a new carb.
 
Adjusting Carb

By adjusting the carb I take it you mean changing the primary jet size. I know absolutly squat about rebuilding a carb or changing jets. I did however find a couple of articles on "how to". I guess i'll get a kit today and give it a shot.

Thanks again,

Michael
 
Michael,

First, describe exactly when the backfires occur... low speed acceleration, mid-range .... high speed? This will give you a good indication of what parts of the carb to be concerned with.
 
Bkfire

It only occurs when I am crusing in any gear between about 1900 rpm and 2500 rpm. It is not a steady backfire but a random occurance, albeit a frequent one.
 
O.K., I re-read your description ... backfires between 1,900 and 2,500 RPM no matter what.

At that RPM, you should be into your primary jets operating range. Remove the primaries and check the size you have.

Before you pull the primaries, have you checked the fuel level in the carb? If the fuel float is adusted too low, there will be insufficient fuel available. Odd, though that it would only backfire between 1,900 and 2,500 RPM.

Certainly an intersting problem.

Mechanical or vacuum secondaries? You might want to check to make sure that your secondaries are not opening too soon and leaning out the carb.

These are all guesses.
 
Fuel Levels

Thanks for the ideas...as soon as I get a chance and it gets a little warmer (31) i'll check into fuel level and diaphram. I was also wondering if the lifters were not adjusted properly (solids) they could be causing a problem like this?
 
The only thing that hasn't been mentioned is the igniton coil.
You may have a voltage leak from the center tower to one or both side terminals. Start the car in the dark and look at the coil. You may see faint spark leaks coming from the center tower. You may even hear it snapping. Voltage leaks like this are random and usually occur when you're in a higher gear. This situation places a greater load on the engine and ignition system.
Good luck!
 
Had a problem like you describe on my 77 last spring, would backfire in mid range RPMs. I had just filled up with 87 octane. Added some octane boost and it stopped. Have never had the problem since I switched to higher grade gas.
 
Another thing which can cause unpredictable backfiring is the exhaust system. If you have a partial blockage on one side (or both) it can cause backpressure which can interfere with the combustion cycle and cause backfiring through the carb. Test for this is to block one exhaust tip at a time and if the car backfires right away, you've got it.
 
72 LtOne,

As far as the carburation, a sticky choke plate or misaligned plates could cause the problem. To realign the plates requires filing-off the plate screws depressed or staked material in order to back the screws. This should be done with the carburator off the engine (in case the screws fall through into the manifold). Don't forget to re-stake the screws once they have been tightened or you risk injesting them and cause damage. The newer Model 4150's have a choke plate inside a slited shaft and do not use screws.

The ignition wire suggestions are valid -check them!

A failed or nearing failure acceleration pump can also cause the problem. What is happening is that a lean condition is being made worse by the part throttle acceleration. To check, simply remove the air cleaner and check down the air horn and look for the shooter on the primary side. Whenever you activate the throttle towards opening the plates, you should see a short stream of fuel coming out of the shooter's two nozzles. If this is not the case, then something is blocking the fuel from coming out. Also, slack between the acceleration pump lever and the throttle mechanism will cause a delay on the fuel and create the lean condition. The pump lever screw (the one with the spring) should be adjusted by holding the throttle wide open and fitting a 0.015 - 0.20" feeler gauge in betwen the lever and the screw head while the spring takes-up the slack (between the nut and spring).

Having had the backfires quite often, I would say that your power valve is also shot. This explains the "running like cr@p" comment on your part. It is located on the primary metering block and to remove it you need a 1" wrench (after removing the fuel bowl and metering block). A backfire protection for your power valve is available, and assuming that you have a relatively old Holley 4150, I would suggest that you obtain one and install it. Holley and Mr. Gasket make one that requires a bit of drilling, but the kit comes with the correct size drill. Or you can obtain the
Power Valve Shield and just change the carburator body bolt close to the middle of the primary plates (when one looks at the carb while removed from the car and up-side down). By the way, to drain the carb while off the vehicle simply turn it up-side down on an pan to collect the fuel.

A clogged or partially clogged main jet could cause the condition, but this situation is more rare. You would have to have alot of junk in the bowl for this to happen, but, you never know, if no filtering is between the pump and the carb, then its a more likely situation.
 
If he is backfiring, why would he be funning lean? Wouldn't he be rich because he is having unburned fuel in the exaust?

Good luck with the problem! :D


Stallion
 
Good question, Stallion!

Exhaust "explosions" are usually caused that way by late ignition timing or late valve timing; however, the "explosion" on a backfire is a momentary flow reversal caused by the puddling of fuel in the intake manifold (lean condition). The subdued "explosion" occurs in the intake manifold when the exhaust dilution and the puddled fuel come to bear.

The lean condition happens as the throttle plates move ever more towards "open", and the combination of additional air and the intake manifold pressure rising towards atmospheric pressure causes the fuel to condense and puddle, so the resultant condition is "lean" or more air than fuel in the mixture. A lean fuel/air mixture is harder to ignite, but once ignited, it is hotter (relatively speaking). In older carburetors, the pressure change wave activates the power valve to add more fuel. The backfires also tends to damage the power valve.

This is basically how it occurs.
 
Backfire problem solved!!!!!

I do not remember how many times I checked the wires and I would have bet my first born that they were on correctly, but they were, in fact, incorrect. The #2 & #4 wires were reversed. God I feel like an idiot. It must have been one of those brain spasms...thinking to hard. With that said....I want to thank all of you helpful people and the suggestions that were presented. The car is now running excellent and a joy to drive.
I did run a compression check (thinking burned valve) and found some great results. All levels were 165 +- 5 psi, not bad for a 32 year old car.


Thanks again, Have a Nice Day!

Michael
 

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