Batt. Gauge

[gooney0]

Its seems I screwed something up while replacing my horn relay. The Batt. gauge (in the center console) no longer works.

I left one of the leads to the horn relay loose by accident, then reconnected it.

Perhaps I've killed a fusible link? How can I tell if one of the links is dead?

I think the gauge also connects near the starter but i'm not sure where.

Any ideas?

-Gooney0

P.S. Its a 72 small block coupe w/ AC

 

[Mike Carter]

There is a fusible link that connects directly to the horn relay, I've burned it myself. during a dash rebuild. First step in electrical troubleshooting is physical inspection the link will be seperated. Look around the horn relay.

Mike

 

[gooney0]

Humm... All the links around the horn relay look okay.

When a fusible link goes out does it break in two? Any chance they would still look okay? or do they burn through inside the rubber "bump?"


-Gooney0

 

[Mike Carter]

Gooney0,

I looked at mine tonight at least three fuse links , one with real fuse, I think there is another link at starter. Do you have meter and wiring diagram? Does the car start? Sorry for being vague but let me know and I;ll assist all I can.

Mike

 

[gooney0]

Mike,

Thanks for your help. The car starts and everything but the gauge works.

One thing I noticed.... at the starter solendiod there is a small orange wire attached. Its is frayed pretty good too. It is hot only when the ign. is on. (but seems less than 12v)

I'm guessing this is what activates the starter? (but doesn't power the starter of course)

The fusible links near the starter look okay too.

Would they be burnt in two if they were bad? Or could they give out inside the rubber shield and you wouldn't know?

Is there a "proper" way of replacing them? or do I goto to Radio Shack and use a crimper?

Thanks again,

-Gooney0

 

[Mike Carter]

Gooney0,

You have different problem than I had. I have done everything from GM to auto parts store to salvage yard to repair fusible links, only my experience but yes they burn in two, done the crimper thing too. You might be able with some work get to back of gauge panel pull battery connector and check what input to gauge is. I can get my hands up in there with difficulty. Sounds like you got and understand meter.

My car is not here at house if there is something you want me to check , ask when I get to car I'll look.

Mike

 

[Big "O"]

Does the 72 have a voltage regulator not built into the alternator? If it's separate from the ALT then the horn switch is somehow connected to the regulator and if the hot wire grounded on something then the regulator probably went bad and needs to be replaced.

 

[gooney0]

Humm... as far as I know I should have an external regulator. I'll have to look into that.

Wouldn't that cause a bunch of other problems too?


As for the horn:

The horn switch (from the horn button) connects to one side of the horn relay (black wire) the other side goes to the horn (green wire) the "post" is a 12v constant hot.


Thanks for the help guys!

-Gooney0

 

[Culprit]

Alternator Regulator

Quoted from Lars' Alternator Tech Paper as posted on corvettefaq.com:

Regulating Parts
To control the output of the alternator, a regulator varies the flow of power to the Rotor, thus changing the strength of its magnetic field. From 1963 through 1970, this was done by an externally-mounted, mechanical voltage regulator, normally mounted on the firewall. Starting in ’71, GM used a small transistorized, internal regulator in the alternator.


Semper Fi,
Culprit

 

[gooney0]

Ahh... thats why I can't find one!

Thanks!

-Gooney0

 

[Mike Carter]

MY 72 has integrated regulator in alternator.