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Battery removal

George H. Williams III

Gone but not forgotten
Joined
Mar 7, 2001
Messages
16
Location
Baltimore, Maryland
Corvette
1994 Polo Green Convertable
All who have replaced the battery know the problem. Does anyone know of a tool/thin wrench to adjust the lower nut (not the mechanic) on the side pannel that has to be removed ? Thanks, George
 
I use a 10 mm Craftsman combination wrench. Also, I don't remove the bolt. I just loosen it enough to release the lower end of the side panel. Then I remove the panel leaving the fastener in place.
 
Like Hib said don't remove the lower bolt just loosten it. If you are worried about scratching the paint, buy a cheap China 10mm wrench and grind about half of it away on the open end. Also please get the correct battery, don't know how many C4s we have seen with a "will fit" battery cramed into the space and the fender cover no longer fits. That is the one battery I buy from the local Chevy dealer and they last 4 to 5 years and actually fit the car.
 
This is also one GM battery I by, My 96 and 98 batterys both lasted 11 years. I always use a bettery tender when i'm not going to be driving them daily.
 
The panel is flexible enough that you don't have to loosen the bottom bolt. I've replaced batteries on many C4s and have not broken a panel yet. Just make sure you have a good handle on the battery and don't bend the panel any more than you have to.
 
I got my battery at Wally World and used Craftsman tools. No problems. You are suppose to mark the fender panel around the nut, so it goes back to a good fit.
 
I use a 10 mm Craftsman combination wrench. Also, I don't remove the bolt. I just loosen it enough to release the lower end of the side panel. Then I remove the panel leaving the fastener in place.

I've also found that the 10mm wrench from my kids "toy set" is actually thinner since its so cheaply made and so it fits right inbetween the panels and doesnt mar the paint!:chuckle

Btw, if anyone reading has an older Vette the bottom panel flange that the bolt holds is not cut to slide out (not sure what year they changed---HIB or anyone any idea?) . You must remove the bolt which means loosening the rocker panels unless someone who replaced a battery previously was smart enough to make the "O" flange a "U" like on the later models like yours. :w
 
Also, use a penetrating oil on that bolt as well as the bolt for the hold down bracket, and give it enough time to work. Both of those bolts can get very corroded.
 
battery in rear of car?

so with the headache area the battery is in lol...... has anyone else considered moving the battery to the hatch area??
 
so with the headache area the battery is in lol...... has anyone else considered moving the battery to the hatch area??
that's where mine is. Change one headache for another, though. I installed a remote + for jumping and charging under the hood, plus a battery tender in the compartment behind the pax.

Rewiring it was a PITA, by the way and I get some fumes. Initially I used a red top Optima, and after two crappy ones, mutlitudes of headaches trying to work with them, I went to a traditional Interstate.

The best battery I ever used was a Delco DuraPower. :w
 
that's where mine is. Change one headache for another, though. I installed a remote + for jumping and charging under the hood, plus a battery tender in the compartment behind the pax.

Rewiring it was a PITA, by the way and I get some fumes. Initially I used a red top Optima, and after two crappy ones, mutlitudes of headaches trying to work with them, I went to a traditional Interstate.

The best battery I ever used was a Delco DuraPower. :w
GET SOME FUMES???? what kind of fumes?? caused by what??
 
Back in 1990 my wifes 87 had battery issues .I jump started it and took it to Sears ,that was when Die Hards we're decent.I asked the service writer if they installed batteries and he said they had a flat charge of $2.50.I handed him the keys told him it was the 87 gold Chev convertible .I was told I could wait because It would only take a minute ,No was my reply I'll just walk over to the mall .Two hours later they had just finished up and I think they we're a little pizzed .For once I felt I screwed Sears :thumb:thumb:thumb
 
GOOD job Vetteboy..getting them for me! Many years ago they ruined my carpet and never paid for it other than me refusing to pay the bill on my card!
Jump started the car and brought it to Sears for a pro-rated replacement under warranty. They knew it was a PIA and said they didnt do Vettes...then put the battery I'd bought in the hatch area on a piece of cardboard. And I rather stupidly didnt think anything about it.....DUH.....battery acid will leak through cardboard and there was some under the battery from their shop. :r

Every now and then when my Craftsman ratchets start to look crummy I tell them its broken and make them replace it for free! One day I'll get even for the price of that carpet!:boogie
 
GOOD job Vetteboy..getting them for me! Many years ago they ruined my carpet and never paid for it other than me refusing to pay the bill on my card!
Jump started the car and brought it to Sears for a pro-rated replacement under warranty. They knew it was a PIA and said they didnt do Vettes...then put the battery I'd bought in the hatch area on a piece of cardboard. And I rather stupidly didnt think anything about it.....DUH.....battery acid will leak through cardboard and there was some under the battery from their shop. :r

Every now and then when my Craftsman ratchets start to look crummy I tell them its broken and make them replace it for free! One day I'll get even for the price of that carpet!:boogie
So you know what I mean .I'm amazed there still in business .Like yourself all I was buying was ratchets because we are steel contractors .Then the new approach for ratchets is just to give the customer a repair kit with just the parts ---you fix it .:mad
 
GET SOME FUMES???? what kind of fumes?? caused by what??
Yes. I don't want to hijack the thread but batteries emit fumes, partially hydrogen gas when they are charged. C3s ad venting tubes that channeled these fumes outside the cabin. I thought the Optima 'red top' was my answer, being fully sealed, but their lousy quality, causing my car to become unreliable, removed that option.

The fumes are not all that bad, and I have a very sensitive nose. Besides, I rarely drive the car all closed up.

Worse and quite expensive if the rewiring cannot be self-accomplished, is that task. I was surprised at how involved it was, more than I had expected, with fusible links, numerous hot-battery feeds, etc; hardly just one big wire. Many of those wires run along the top of the firewall, in that wee space behind the engine.

Any later access to the battery is more difficult, with bodily contortions required in order to reach it and very limited finger/hand space inside that compartment. It is small and the battery size required for this car takes up almost all of it. Actually battery dimensions are limited by what fits through the hole.

This is most of why I say I traded one set of problems for another. :w
 
how do you get at it?

How do you get at the head of the lower bolt? It seems completley sealed in to me. All I can see are the threads sticking up through the nut. If you open the door wide enough do you get access to it? (I'm stuck in the garage with a dead battery and therefore can't open the door very wide.) Or do I have to take the rocker panel off? ;help

I'm confused ! :confused ;shrug :W
 
How do you get at the head of the lower bolt? It seems completley sealed in to me. All I can see are the threads sticking up through the nut. If you open the door wide enough do you get access to it? (I'm stuck in the garage with a dead battery and therefore can't open the door very wide.) Or do I have to take the rocker panel off? ;help

I'm confused ! :confused ;shrug :W

You can get to the bolt head with an open end wrench and it just needs loostened NOT removed. The panel has a U not a hole for that bolt so it can slide out. Another bolt is located by the door and is accessed from above and you may need to push the car out so the door can open wider. Other fasteners are at the edge of the wheel well, hold down is located on the back side of the battery. While long extensions are not required they do make the job much easier.
 
still confused....

You can get to the bolt head with an open end wrench and it just needs loostened NOT removed. The panel has a U not a hole for that bolt so it can slide out. Another bolt is located by the door and is accessed from above and you may need to push the car out so the door can open wider. Other fasteners are at the edge of the wheel well, hold down is located on the back side of the battery. While long extensions are not required they do make the job much easier.


I guess I'm really missing something. I can not see the head of the bolt to put a wrench on it. How do I get to see the head of the bolt? If I lie on the floor, it is completly sealed off from view. When I look down from above I can see the threads sticking up, but where the head is located is completly sealed off from me.

I have the screws removed and the top bolt removed. They were no problem at all. But I can't even see the head of the lower bolt to put a wrench on it. Are there more panels that I need to remove. I have the repair manual and it doesn't indicate any other panels to be removed. But I don't have access to the head of that bolt !
 
Keep the driver's side door closed.

Then feel with your wrench for the bolt. You can use either the box end or the open end of the wrench. Loosen the bolt a couple of turns and you will be good to go.

The bolt head is located between the gill panel and the rocker panel.

Good luck! :upthumbs
 

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