Battery Yank

[Jman]

Looks like you have to go through the rocker panel on a '96 to yank the battery. Am I on the right path? What a hassle.

 

[KOPBET]

Well, sort of. Just remove the first two torx screws up front.

http://128.242.148.81/how_to_correctly_replace_a_dead C4 Battery.htm

 

[tnovot]

battery removal

Looks like a worse job than it really is. Take your time and don't "yank" on anything until you are sure it's loose - especially before you find the lower bolt on the side panel.

 

[brewshill2003]

battery removal

Just did this last night, much easier than it looks. There are 3 torx fasteners at front of panel along edge of wheel wellto remove. ! 10mm bolt at top back of panel to remove. And lastly one 10mm bolt at bottom back of panel. This bolt is visible in gap betwwen panel and rocker panel. Use 10 mm open end wrench an just loosen this bolt up some. Panel should just slide rigthout. Good luck Bruce

 

[Corvette-Pilot]

;stupid

Remember, the one in the door gap just needs to be LOOSENED not removed.
Don't over tighten any when putting it back together or you WILL crack the tabs !

 

[scorp508]

Don't over tighten any when putting it back together or you WILL crack the tabs !

Previous owner of my car totally ripped off the lower mounting tabs for my driver's side gill panel.

 

[Jman]

Good Info - One other question

Didn't get around to replacing the battery for about 3 weeks. Got in the middle of "yanking" out the old one with the positive cable still attached and the negative cable wrapped in a towel. Finally pulled the old one out and put the new one in but noticed that there wasn't even a spark and I've got NOTHING. Now I'm going to assume that the new battery has enough power to light something. What could have happened or any suggestions? Is there a fuse I should look for?

 

[Jman]

Wanted

Need a positive side battery cable for a '96 LT4. The bolt is somewhat stripped and doesn't allow good contact. Maybe what caused the other battery to fail although there was never a warning. Unless you know of any other good shop remedies to keep from having to replace it, looks like I've got to get a new one.

 

[lew]

Seems to me that you should be able to just replace the stripped bolt, not the whole cable. You can buy the bolts at Autozone for about a buck.

Lew

 

[Jman]

Good Point

I'm a home garage mechanic - only slightly dangerous. I thought the same thing but after looking at those bolts can't figure out how the hell they come out - they seemed to be formed in there. The guys at the local retail store said you'd have to replace them with factory cables or their cable. I'm thinking about getting something to just straighten the threads out (what do you call those thread tools?) instead of trying to force it into the battery. Any ideas on what size I should use?

 

[switch]

I have Greenwood type ground effects and I had to remove the wheel and part of the wheelwell to get mine out. Like your's it looked more difficult than it was.

Gordon
WitchHunter Performance

 

[lew]

I think you can just grab the head of the bolt with a vice grip and pull it out. I have done that on other cars. It is only the rubber in the connector that keeps it from falling out. You have nothing to lose by trying this if you are going to replace the cable anyway.

Lew

 

[Jman]

Let's Roll

We're rolling again - just used a die tool to straighten out the threads a little and she tightened right up. As an FYI - can't get that bolt out of its plastic casing on the factory setup. Reading 14.7 volts - how does that compare and should that always be consistent??

 

[RedRagTop]

Mine is usually around 14.3 or so.

 

[lew]

I checked mine this morning on the way to work. Read 14.4 volts while cruising 65 MPH in 6th gear.

Lew