FLOW KOOLER experts told me:
The electrics I looked at were for strip; not daily driving. The duty cycles and design was differently directed.
One has to be careful about too much flow, as with too little water flow. More is not always better, in water flow nor in fuel and/or air flow. In this case, water can move too quickly through the block, preventing adequate heat absorbtion.
Experts come in real handy again, here. While I did not find the BeCool folks all too helpful, as they seemed more interestied in selling me more and more product, the technician at FLOW KOOLER, makers my high flow water pump told me:
The coolant needs to be in the block long enough to do its work, i.e. absorb heat. It also needs to be in the radiator long enough to cool. The thermostat is a hydraulic switch, opening and closing, based upon the rating. It likely does not open and stay open all the time. He suggested regulating the coolant flow, starting with no thermostat, then using differing restrictor plates until I found the proper amount of flow.
I had been puzzled as to why my engine was running hot with my 'super' BeCool and FlowTech parts; as hot as it had been with the stock radiator, pump and fan. While BeCool wanted me to drop a few hundred more on their fan, the solution was a $12 Robert Shaw thermostat which flowed a bit more water than the Stant.
So a few bucks to MaBell saved me a few hundred wasted on 'high performance' parts, which would NOT have solved the problem.
I hope this helps. I was told the stock, single fan on my car would cool to 700hp. The stock Z-51 radiator, now in a box, ready for shipping, was likely fine, too, similarly the stock pump.
