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Bleeding new brakes

  • Thread starter Thread starter winscheldc
  • Start date Start date
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winscheldc

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HELP!!!

Does anyone have an idea on how to bleed the brakes on a 1969 without having the pressure connector that attaches to a compreesor and then the master cylinder?

I was told you cannot get them bled correctly by just pumping the peddle and opening bleeder screws. It is a whole new system, calipers, emergency brake shoes, lines new master cylinder etc.

Or does anyone know where I can get one or jury rig up something to do it with.

Any help would be greatly appreciated... :confused :r HELP!!!!!!!
 
Go it the "one man"-way...

-Have you installed the new "SpeedBleeder"-brand bleed valves as yet? After you prime the master-cylinder, the rest should be a piece-o'cake with all the SB's open or one at a time (plus a lil'hose & jar or old-rags at each wheel to catch the out-flow once air is expelled); --you just quickly pump the brake-pedal until its done! Mind you now, keep checking the MC-reservoir oil-level, and preferably install Silicoln-oil(pump slowly) as to both negate future internal corrosion and resist any further tendancy for the flange-seals to pump-air (unless you have up-graded to O-ring type seals); -then merely relock the valves once the task is thus so readily done! The revolutionary new SB-valves simply incorporate a patented spring-loaded/check-valve that lets oil out but prevents air from flowing-in when you lift the brake-pedal), that is sure to make its inventor very wealthy (why didn't I think of this idea, -instead of still stupidly working for a living! --the idea is so logical that one would have thought it would have been conceived when hydraulic-brakes were first introduced back in the 1920's); --which are available from the various Corvette-catalogs and places like PepBoys at around $30/four...
Cheers, ~Bob vH
;stupid :SLAP :beer
http://www.russellperformance.com/automotive/index.html
 
Easiest way is to "gravity bleed" them first. You should have "bench bled" the MC prior to putting it on.

Open all 4 bleeders. Put little hoses on each with a clean catch bottle/can under each hose.

Pour fluid into the MC. Watch the football game....listen to the radio....or work on another project.

When fluid starts dripping out of each hose....or when it begins from one hose, close that bleeder. Wait till you have drips out of all 4 hoses. Watch the level in the MC. Keep topping it off. Leave the MC cover off.

Then...bleed using the traditional method. I use the "wife pumps the brake pedal" method. She's good at it. :) Chuck
 
I have purchased the motive product power bleeder see link below
http://www.motiveproducts.com/ordernow_bleeders.htm

I had purchased one last year and LOVE IT. The one I purchased was a kit they had in there special section.It seems you could purchase one for only $54.00 that would work on most vettes

I have had my vette since august of 2000 and the only 2 unplesent things I have found about vettes
1-was adjusting the headlight buckets
2-was bleeding the brakes with silacone fluid

I also prior to finding this product treid every thing I could to try and make the job easeyer.speed bleeder,mighty vac.If your going to own a vette and work on it this is a tool not to be with out.

As for grafity bleeding YES IT ABSOLUTLEY WORKS .when I used to gravity bleed I actually used to whack the rear calipers with a rubber mallet to get the bubles to move thru the rear caliper cross over tube.

Some tools are definatley worth owning regaurdless of price ieven if you only use it once.Several time when I was trying to bleed my brakes with no luck or having to walk away from it for a day because the fluid had became airated I would have paid $200.00 not to of had to deal with it
 
I also can endorse the Motive products bleeder. After raising the car and removing the wheels,it only took about 10 minutes to flush the entire system. One of the best things I ever bought for the upkeep of my corvette!

Dave
 

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