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Blue Bullet Blog-The C6 Ownership Experience

Before I left on the Alaska adventure, I found out that the replacement hood arrived and Graham Chevrolet in nearby Santa Barbara and is in storage there until we come back from this trip.

When we return, I'll get the Z06 down there for the replacement.
 
Had the new hood put on a week ago...much improved and all done under warranty. Thanks to GM's Tom Hill, Paul Allison and Eric Millette along with James Fletcher at Graham Chevy in Santa Barbara for making it happen.

One thing I've decided, after driving the car for several months and that is even with the exhaust bypasses open, it's sorta quiet. The car has the new four-cat exhaust.

Has anyone her removed or gutted the second pair of cats and, if so, how does it sound?
 
Hib,
I have greatly enjoyed reading of your experiences in that gorgeous Z06 and would appreciate your advice. I noted you installed a Green High Flow Filter and wondered if you have any experience with the Attack Blue Filter available for the C6? Might you expect any performance gains or increase in throttle response by adding a Green Filter to an otherwise stock LS3?
Many Thanks.
 
I am not familiar with the "Attack Blue Filter".

I install Green Filters for improved airflow at high rpm and the improvement varies with the size of the engine, its air flow demands and the design of the air filter assembly. I also install them because they can be cleaned and reused. I've never had an air filter change result in a change in throttle response. Not to say it can't happen, but I've never experienced it with the applications to which I've added Green Filters.

On a stock LS3, because my belief is the air filter assembly is pretty good, I would not expect a Green significantly more compared to a new paper filter. The advantage in the Green comes as the filters begin to trap contaminates. Also, since the Green can be washed, reoiled and reinstalled there is a cost advantage over time.
 
hmmm... in the same vein as an earlier suggestion.

BLUD401K

How many characters does California allow, Hib? In my home state it's 7 which causes me aggravation because without a "space" everyone sees this...

HPIM0315_SIG.jpg




as this... ZOR-AD-NA ;squint:

I really LIKE that plate^^^^^....Vettesters know what it means.....

427Z06.....we already know it's blue....(love CB as well. Wish it had been available in 2010....)

425-1.jpg


419.jpg


:beer
 
Had the new hood put on a week ago...much improved and all done under warranty. Thanks to GM's Tom Hill, Paul Allison and Eric Millette along with James Fletcher at Graham Chevy in Santa Barbara for making it happen.

One thing I've decided, after driving the car for several months and that is even with the exhaust bypasses open, it's sorta quiet. The car has the new four-cat exhaust.

Has anyone her removed or gutted the second pair of cats and, if so, how does it sound?


There's a guy in the Vette club who removed the whole system and rpl'd w/LT's/catless.

The newer cans from '12+ DO SOUND better than the early p/n cans. I bought a x-pipe w/the late p/n cans ('12' with perfs in the tailpipes.....much better sound.....) but, yours with the xtra cats change the mid pipe length.
 
I am not familiar with the "Attack Blue Filter".

I install Green Filters for improved airflow at high rpm and the improvement varies with the size of the engine, its air flow demands and the design of the air filter assembly. I also install them because they can be cleaned and reused. I've never had an air filter change result in a change in throttle response. Not to say it can't happen, but I've never experienced it with the applications to which I've added Green Filters.

On a stock LS3, because my belief is the air filter assembly is pretty good, I would not expect a Green significantly more compared to a new paper filter. The advantage in the Green comes as the filters begin to trap contaminates. Also, since the Green can be washed, reoiled and reinstalled there is a cost advantage over time.

Read up on Jim Hall's work on this....i.e. Halltech.
 
I'm familiar with his work and Halltech's products. I consider the products they have for C6 one of the top two air intake systems on the market for C5/C6. The other product I like, and the one I'm considering based on a discussion I had about it with the folks at Katech who did some testing, is Zip Products' "Mamba" system. If I was to order an intake kit today, I'd use the Zip Mamba unit.

Interestingly, I tried to put a Green Filter in the stock air box earlier this week and found out that for '12, GM puts the ZR1 filter on Z06es to compensate for the restriction from the second set of cats. I didn't have the AC-223 retainer (which is built into the ZR1 filter but not into the pre-12 Z06 unit) to use with the Green so I had to put the OE filter back in.

I'm going to order the retainer next week.
 
In six months or so of ownership, I've come to notice that the trim on the center console and especially the inside of the console compartment gets pretty hot...hotter than do the same parts in my C5.

I don't know specifically why that is, but I suspect a combination of two conditions: 1) the second set of cats on '12s is below the tunnel in the spot used for cats on C5s. Heat rises and cats get freakin' hot, 2) the cars with aluminum structure would have to transfer heat from the exhaust more efficiently due to aluminum's "better" thermal characteristics and that might tend to make the tunnel hotter.

I took some measurements with my Raytek AutoPro IR thermometer was was amazed to find that at the front of the console compartment, the temperature is over 150°. Also, if I pulled the edge of the seat away and took a reading on the side of the tunnel, just below the level of the seat, I saw almost 160°. Damn! No wonder my butt get hot on long trips.

I was browsing Zip Products' web site the other day and came across a product called "Thermal Abs" from Elite Engineering. This product is a 1/4-in thick aluminum tunnel close-out plate which, on one side, has a thermal insulating material with a reflective outer skin. You install it with the insulation facing the exhaust. The thicker aluminum is, also, supposed to increase the tunnel's stiffness, but the big advantage, IMO, is the thermal insulation.

After I installed the "Thermal Abs" tunnel plate, I took some more measurements and there was a noticeable reduction in the temperatures, enough that one can easily feel the difference. The highest temperature was inside the center console compartment at the front. Elite Engineering's aftermarket close-out plate reduced the temperature there by about 20°F, from 151-154°F to 126-134°F. The other hot spot on the tunnel was the carpet, just below the level of the seat bottom cushion–I had to pull the edge of the seat cushion back and take my measurment. Before the installation, the temperature there was 133°F at the front corner and 133°F at the mid point of the seat near the seat belt buckle. After installing the "Thermal Abs" plate, measurements in those same locations were 108° and 127°. There were a lot of other points on the console and tunnel which I measured and while not all had reductions as large as those areas, everywhere I measured showed some reduction in temperature. The "Thermal Abs" plate is a step in the right direction as far as reducing the uncomfortable level of heat that comes off the console.

I think the next step would be to wrap the exhaust system "mid-pipe" with some exhaust wrap from either Design Engineering or ThermoTec, the companies which make the best products of that type on the market.

And then, there was alignment....

I've noted a fair amount of comment in the Internet about newer Corvettes either coming out of Bowling Green with the alignment not quite right or having alignment issues in the first 5000 miles or so.

After noticing my rear camber was not the same side-to-side, I took the car into my favorite tire and suspension shop, Woolever's Tire Service. They checked the alignment. Sure enough, the rear was off. The honest guy Bob Woolever is, he suggested I take the car to a dealer and have the alignment reset under warranty.

Well, I got to the dealer and they checked it. Sure enough, they found the rear camber off, too, but, the service tolerance per the FSM for warranty purposes is +/- 0.60° and mine wasn't that far off at -1.0° and -1.5°

So, I told them to realign the front and back to the Service Manual's FE4 specs and paid for the alignment.

This weekend, some of the folks from my club, Corvette Club Santa Barbara, are headed over the mountains to Kernville and back. The roads are such that I can do some testing of the alignment. Also, I've not driven the car much were I can use PTM, so I'm looking forward to trying that, too.
 
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There's a guy in the Vette club who removed the whole system and rpl'd w/LT's/catless.

The newer cans from '12+ DO SOUND better than the early p/n cans. I bought a x-pipe w/the late p/n cans ('12' with perfs in the tailpipes.....much better sound.....) but, yours with the xtra cats change the mid pipe length.

I'm thinking about having my exhaust fabricator remove the second set of cats.

In lieu of that, I'm also thinking about buying a set of those exhaust flow bypass valve limiting devices sold by the guy who sells the "Mild2Wild" product. I'm told that you can install these adjustable "stops" and have the bypass valves "hang open" a small amount which changes the exhaust note...to the better I'm told.
 
Two weeks ago, I drove the Blue Bullet II on a trip with my pals in Corvette Club Santa Barbara. Called "Bob's Back Roads" and organized by (who'd a thunk) a guy named "Bob", it took us from Carpinteria west of L.A. on the coast across the coastal mountain range to Kernville in the southern Sierra Nevada Mtns.

The first part of the trip was over the Coast Range on State Route 33. This highway runs from Ojai over to Taft in the south end of the Central Valley. If you look at this road on Google Maps you'll see why I like it. It's a very fast, twisty road which gives you 20-min or so of really sporting driving. We drove it early in the morning on Saturday so once we got out of the lower elevations traffic, both car and bicycles, thinned out.

We got about a quarter of the way up SR33 and the leader pulled over to wait for some stragglers. Frustrated with the lack of speed and wanting to "exercise" my Pilot Sport Cups, I went around him and hauled ass. I figured to pull over after I got through the twisty parts and wait a few minutes for them to catch up.

There's no other way to say this....The Z06 w. Z07 is BAD FAST.:happyanim:

A lot of experienced drivers say that while the ZR1 has 133 more horsepower, because of its extra weight on the nose and the difficulty in getting that extra power to the ground, the Z06 is better balanced and an easier car to drive at the limit.
After about 30 miles over SR33, the only part of today's trip where I knew the road well enough to go really fast, man oh man did I understand why some people say that about the Z06.

The car's handing is much improved over earlier versions of the car I had driven. The first several years of Z06es tended to oversteer in an unpredictable manner. The current FE4 suspension seems to have been tweaked to greatly reduce that tendency–slight adjustments in rear spring rates and stabilizer bar rates. Also, the Z07 option gets you Magnaride which is an absolutely awesome damping system. GM first calibrated MR for a track-ready suspension when the ZR1 came out. Now that the "performance version" of MR is available with Z07 on Z06, the benefits of MR's near-real-time ability to change shock valving extends the car's performance envelope. You really see the value of MR on roads like SR33 which, in places is pretty flat, like a race track would be, but in other places is full of swale, dips and undulations which really which, when run at speed, demonstrate quite handily the advantages of Magnaride. There is no way any fixed valve shock absorber system would have as much damping bandwidth as does MR and make available just the right amount of damping to match the car's speed, lateral acceleration and suspension movement on a millisecond by millisecond basis.

I did not try out Performance Traction Management. My original plan was to use PTM during my run over 33 but, I decided that since I was running between 8 and 9/10s most of the time, I'd just use Magna Ride in the "sport" mode rather than delving into PTM.

As for the Cup tires. Wow. They stick like freakin' glue

Brakes. Holy crap does this car have brakes. I really got to exercise those carbon brakes on the downhill parts of 33. No trace of any fade. Admittedly, I was not using the brakes like I would on a race track, where you'd build a ton of heat, but the fact remains, it's the best set of brakes I've ever driven on a street car.

Last but certainly not least, is that 427-cu in LS7 engine. SR33 has a few intermediate-length straights..."intermediate" meaning near the rev limiter in third gear. You come out of a turn in the mid-range in second, floor the gas, run the motor to 7000 rpm in second then shift to third and run the motor to 7000 rpm again, then brake. Man, what a rush! The LS7 is just a whole lot of gearhead fun.

I mentioned in an earlier post that I had installed an aftermarket tunnel plate I got from Zip Products. After running the car really hard over SR33, I can say that the decrease in heat radiating off the console and sides of the tunnel was noticeably less.:thumb That "Thermal Abs" product works well for more information see Zip's web site at Corvette Parts - Performance and Restoration and or read the review at:Driveline Tunnel Plate - Corvette Product Reviews

Based on my test trip over CA State Route 33, I want to do still more to address the interior heat issue and I think wrapping the exhaust is the best way to go. I also want to change the car's sound a bit. I think cutting off the second set of cats and putting stops on the bypass valves is the way to go. Lastly, I'd like to install some kind of aftermarket air box. I'm considering a Mamba system which is sold by Zip.

After about 30 miles I pulled over and waited. I figured the rest of the folks would be a few minutes behind. Well...it was actually 10 minutes. Figuring they were running the speed limit, which over SR33 is 55-mph, they were about nine miles behind me.

That Carlisle Blue Bullet is definitely BAD FAST.
 
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That Carlisle Blue Bullet is definitely BAD FAST.[/QUOTE]

Man, just think how fast that would have been if it was YELLOW.
 
I was out drinking beer with some pals at my favorite microbrewery, Hollister Brewing Co. in Goleta, Sunday night and one of them asked me what don't I like about the car?

Well...I'm not a big fan of the keyless ignition. I think it's a frivolous techie fad. Plus I hate the funky key fob with the "panic" button that's too easy to push accidentally and set off the horns.

The four-cat exhaust makes the car too quiet with the bypassed closed but that Mild2Wild thing makes the exhaust too loud when cruising. Maybe I should cut off the back set of cats. It would be nice if the aftermarket could provide a way to recalibrate the exhaust module.

When I drive slow in sharp turns I hear a clicking from the outside front wheel. I hate the noise, but don't know what causes it. Need to look into that, obviously.

Didn't like that the alignment was so far off from the factory but not far enough (needs to be 0.6° or more) off to be able to have it fixed under warranty. I shouldn't have to pay to align the suspension to factory specs and the factory tolerance on a new vehicle ought to be less than 0.6°.

The OE radio reception sucks. My C5 and C4 are better. I can drive the C6 though certain areas and FM reception sucks. I can drive the C5 or the C4 through the same area and their FM receivers can pull in the signal. Hidden antennas...yet another frivolous styling feature. I'm tempted to drill into the back of the car somewhere and install a fixed-mast antenna off a C5 Z06.

But...this is minor stuff. The other 98% of the car, I love!

Oh....a P.S. to "Paul T"....I passed three yellow cars on that run over SR33, however, I gave each a happy face for trying hard. If you're feeling "left out" I can send you a little happy face, too, because I know you'll try hard to go as fast as blue.;LOL
 
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(Carlisle) BLUE IS A BLAST!!!!!!
 
....a P.S. to "Paul T"....I passed three yellow cars on that run over SR33, however, I gave each a happy face for trying hard. If you're feeling "left out" I can send you a little happy face, too, because I know you'll try hard to go as fast as blue.;LOL

Ouch.
 
I decided I want to convert the tail lamps to LED.

Anyone out there who's done that to a C6, I'd be interested to know what brand of conversion you bought.
 
Hib - I ordered LED lights for my 2012 Grand Sport last March. They would not work because the 12 has 3 wires to each light and the LED has only 2.
I ordered the ones you see in the major Corvette catalogs.

I just checked my ZR1 and it also has 3 wires.
Maybe they have updated them since - so check before ordering and getting frustrated and have to send them back.

Roger :w
 
Hib - I ordered LED lights for my 2012 Grand Sport last March. They would not work because the 12 has 3 wires to each light and the LED has only 2.
I ordered the ones you see in the major Corvette catalogs.

I just checked my ZR1 and it also has 3 wires.
Maybe they have updated them since - so check before ordering and getting frustrated and have to send them back.

Roger :w

Well, darn....that's not what I was looking to hear. I've decided to hold off on going LED for the taillamps on my C6 for now. What I wish I could find is the same brand of LED kit I used on my C5 but I haven't been able to find it, yet. "67vet" saying 2-wire LED lights won't work adds another complication to my plan.
 
I mentioned in an earlier thread I was thinking about converting to a Green Filter. I finally got the proper 06-11 filter retainer which has to be used with the Green. While I was talking to my Parts guy, Stan Lorence, at Tom Henry Chevrolet I asked about replacement filters. He told me the new filter used in 12s and 13s retails for $207.52. I about crapped my pants. I mean what the heck is the thing made of, gold?:mad

Using the Green will probably make a lot more sense economically because it can be washed and reused.

I'm also trying to find a generic source for those adjustable collars you put on the actuator rods of the exhaust bypass valves so I can adjust the valves slightly open.

Also want to find an easy way to remove the second set of cats.

If I had enough extra cash around, that Katech "Torquer 116" camshaft package (220 / 244 @ .050, .615 / .648 lift, 116 LSA) looks pretty good.

Actually, the Blue Bullet II is stored in an off-site garage right now while I have both my 71 Coupe (The Big Block from Hell) in the shop with a dead fuel pump and my 95 Coupe in the shop for some work to its sound system. It'll be resting under cover for a week or so.
 

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