Bose amps

[Loaded 90]

Can you remove all of the Bose amps and get a signal from the factory radio for an aftermarket amp? Has anyone done this? If so do you know what wires to splice into? I want to run all four speakers off of one amp.


Mac

 

[Tonylong]

I've read many posts on the Bose system. The Bose amp doesn't put out enough juice
to power other speakers - that's why there are mini-amps in each of the speakers.
There was a prior post that gave a Crutchfield part number which would allow you to
connect another amp to your head end unit, and then you could use other speakers.
BTW - the door speakers are a real bugger to get to.
Check the board for the prior posts on Bose.
also Crutchfield.com - the search for Bose.
HTH LOL

 

[vigman]

Not easily

Either fix the factory rig.... or go 100% aftermarket ( Which I did )

My sound system ROCKS.....

225 Fosgate punch for the dual 10" subs

175X4 for the 6" in the door ( Kenwood Coax )
and the 2 4X6 in the dash... which I put a blocking cap so it acts as the Midrange & top
( JBL's).

Vig!

 

[Tonylong]

You didn't say if there was anything wrong with your Bose. If some
part is broken then you will need to fix it, or replace the entire system.
However ... if you just want better sound. Try this.
I listen to Rock and the Bose just didn't put out enough sound for me.
A local sound shop outlined what I could be getting into if I replaced
the entire system - 4 spkrs, subwoof, amp, cabling, $1000 +, and that
doesn't include a new head unit or install. Major PITA with the front
(door)speakers too.
He reasoned that I would need a subwoof in any event, so he suggested
adding a self-powered subwoofer to the existing Bose unit. Then see
if I still needed more sound.
This was a great idea ! He installed a Kicker 8", easily connected to the
rear Bose speaker INPUTS, has its own amp, mixer, and crossover, and
relative volume control. It was just the thing. The Woofer volume is linked
to the fader, and the extra Bass did the trick.
I no longer am interested in replacing the Bose system.
Cost - $250 including the install.
BTW - while reading the FSM about the Bose system during this
process I found that it is recommended to set the Treble and Bass
controls to MAX ! Turn them down only when or if there is any
distortion. This also made a big difference in the total quality of sound.
HTH

 

[BigRed]

Don't bother man seriously and heres why...

First of all your dealing with a SEVERLY hard car to get away from Alternator noise

2nd your wiring is over 12 years old... and about as good a gauge thats required for a lighter

3rd GOOD LUCK diagnosing which wires where unless your using a factory harness add on plug simply forget it

Not to mention the fact compare the labour your about to pay (even if your doing yourself) you'll pbly be matching the price of a real good wiring system (Eg. Pheonix Gold, Stinger etc...)

I just finished my speaker box and subs this last week (I upgraded from 10's to 12's) If you need any help what so ever I can provide you with all you need to know regarding this particular installation.

Now as for RESALE ****PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE THE ORIGINAL HARNESS!!!**** I can't stress that enough so many guys and even shops HACK the things off creating shorts or a nightmare to go back to the original harness/stereo

The holes in the rear of your car actually take a 6x9 without ONE cut they simply drop in perfect after your remove the bose box

the deck--Keep the original of course but simply buy a 10 dollar install kit and go to a standard deck.

The hardest part of this install will be the door speakers as they are a PITA to remove. (Heres my advice) IF you ever plan on selling this car AND your not looking for a competition stereo LEAVE THEM ALONE the car is small enough that the 6x9's (If good enough) will sound GREAT on they're own.

I did'nt know this (Going from a Grand Cherokee why would I) but I have Alpine component speakers in my front and JL 6x9's in the rear. (You don't even hear the Alpines that much trust me) the only time you do is when you have your roof off and stored in the hatch (GM naturally placed the rear speakers underneath the roof storage)

My system is simple

JL 6x9's (3 Way)
Alpine Type R 5 1/4 component (Hate em)
Kicker 12's
Sony XM 7557 Mobile ES Amp (5 channel)
Panasonic DX-99 (5 Volt)
Pro Link Capacitor (1 Farad)
PG speaker wiring/Power/grounds(All Quicksliver)
Stinger RCA's (The blue ones)

If you'd like front speakers do the dash in a small tweeter. If you'd like to know how to build a speaker box for subs that only takes up 4 inchs of your floor in the rear just send me a email I'll draw you up some specs (Mine is made like a enitire 4 inch lift subfloor in the hatch My subs are behind the seats and my amp is coverd towards the tank (All under one roof sort of speak)

If you'd like me to get some pictures I'll do that for ya also.

Good Luck

 

[Loaded 90]

Thanks for the answers. I am still puzzled as to what to do because I want to keep the factory head unit, the amps are just bad in 2 of the speakers. My only question with going after-market is where does the antenna hook up at in the head unit?

 

[maxm]

To Vigman.
If you put in an aftermarket stereo you will get a code that says something is wrong. Is that correct ?....or can you djust take the old one out and the new one in ?????
Max

 

[BigRed]

On my 85 the factory wire the engage the Power antenna is PINK its the only pink wire in the harness. Simply hook it up to your Pwr Ant feed off the deck.

If you get a deck that does'nt have one make a switch for it.

Pink wire to switch---Switch to Igntion Pwr (Do this because if you forget to hit the switch when turning off the car your BATT won't go dead).

 

[Loaded 90]

I was wondering about the actual antenna cable that picks up the signal. The bose radio antenna wire is in the wiring harness, not like the after market radios. Do they make a plug in harness for this?


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