Brake Bleeding Problem

[Vette66AirCoupe]

I have just replaced all 4 wheel cylinders, 3 rubber hoses and 2 steel lines, both on the passenger side, one front, one rear. I adjusted up the new brakes and began bleeding in this order. RR, LR, RF, LF. I have been careful to make sure the master cylinder does not run out of fluid as I make my rounds. The problem is that I've been around the horn three times now and have yet to get all of the air out. I've gone through an entire bottle of brake fluid. The master cylinder was fine before I started and is reasonably new so I don't think it's the problem. I noticed bubbles rising in the master cylinder, a small one every 2 seconds or so. This has gone on for over an hour now though the fluid level doesn't appear to have gone down. I'm going to wait until these bubbles stop before I try to bleed again. No leaks anywhere else. Any suggestions???? :confused

 

[Vette66AirCoupe]

I should have noted that I'm working on my '60 with stock master cylinder and drum brakes. Thanks.

 

[Tempus_Fugit]

It helps to bench bleed the master first. There are 2 methods:

Put the master in a vise in the same position it sits on the car.

option 1-
plug the outlet and work the plunger on the master until bubbles stop coming up.

option 2 -
get a short piece of brake hose and run it from the outlet back into the master and work the plunger to get the bubbles out.

Assuming you have not done this, you will eventually get the air out if you bleed it enough. It may take a while.

John

 

[drags1998]

Take your time, let the air bubbles stop,Then proceed. If you cant get allof the air out, then see if you can borrow a vacume pump and pull fluid thru from the bleeder screws. Good Luck!!!!

 

[IH2LOSE]

Gravity bleeds also work well.

The best recomendation I can make is to invest in a power bleeder set up.

http://www.motiveproducts.com/05specials.html

It makes quick work of a frustrating job.Probably the best 100.00 I have every spent on a tool ever.

 

[BLACK MOON]

Disconnect your lines from the master cylinder one at a time. Plug master and use a hose and brake fluid bottle with a pointed tip to force the fluid thru the lines. If you attach clear hose at each bleeder it can save time, fluid and a mess. I use a mighty vac with everything connected and vacum down the system. Also check your connections, one could be loose. Good luck.

 

[Vette66AirCoupe]

Last night I think I got things squared away. Persistence wears down resistance. I ended up running almost another full quart of fluid through the brake system but at least I now know that the fluid is fresh. Bonus! It stops straight! Thanks to all.

 

[BLACK MOON]

Did you use silicone fluid? Ha Ha, just messing with you.

Go enjoy!!

 

[Vette66AirCoupe]

Did you use silicone fluid? Ha Ha, just messing with you.

Go enjoy!!

Oh man! You had to bring that up didn't you. I thought about making the change to avoid all of the moisture problems in the future and decided not to. Now I'm kicking myself as I ran so much fluid through the system I could have easily flushed it all out with a little more effort and made the switch. Live and learn. The other thing I'm kicking myself for is that I didn't convert to the modern bearings and get away from the ball bearings. I didn't know they were available for $139 including seals and all 4 bearings until AFTER I had purchased two seals for $30 and one outer roller bearing for $40. ARRRGGGGGGHHH!!! If I can believe the ad, the roller bearings are somewhat responsible for the "wandering" experienced with C-1's. Has anybody had any experience with this type of bearing conversion?

 

[BLACK MOON]

I've never heard of them. Where are they available?
Thanks

 

[Vette66AirCoupe]

I've never heard of them. Where are they available?
Thanks

From Zip Products. Go to http://www.zip-products.com click on front suspension, then wheel bearings. Scroll down to the bottom for the tapered bearing conversion kit.

Terry

 

[MikeH]

I just made the switch last weekend from the roller bearings to taper bearings (purchased from Paragon). It made a huge improvement! No more wandering... The ball bearings that were in the car were worn and not torqued properly so I sure that I had a poor baseline. I would highly recommend the switch and am very satified with the results.

Mike