Brake light(dash)

[procketus]

Ok, here's my first question. just bought the car and knew it needed some brake bleeding. Bled them out today but the light on dash is still on. Previous owner installed new front calipers and hoses also new pads all the way around. Also a new master cylinder.

Back in the day i used to have a way of getting the light to go off. But don't remember how it works now. Now the other thing is I guess it could be the e-brake switch.

Also I don't know how the brake pedal should feel in these cars. It stops the car but it seems like there is excessive travel. The wifes Mazda has 4 wheel disc and is very firm.

Any suggestions?

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

You might have two problems.

1) still have air in the lines or calipers. Pedal should be VERY firm with little travel.

2) the proportioning valve/pressure sensing switch assembly might be 'stuck' giving you the red light.

With engine running try mashing the pedal and holding it. This might turn the light off and make bleeding easier. If not try bleeding then mashing. If neither works, the valve ass'y may need to be cleaned internally or replaced.

Not a rare condition.

 

[GerryLP]

I had (recently) this problem. I would bleed the brakes, and they would last a few miles (40 -65), and during a hard stop, the brake light would illuminate.

A rebuilt the master cylinder and bench bled it. But still did the same thing. I also used a power bleeder, which facilitated the bleeding, but it did not correct the problem. After trying and troubleshooting each brake components, I thought that perhaps the Vette's old master cylinder may have reached its service life (thought perhaps, the piston bore may be worn), so then I found a new AC-Delco replacement master cylinder for the vette (not original casting number nor date), but if fit fine on the car. Not bad for a $38 dollar item in eBay.

Power-bled the brakes, pressed on the brake pedal to reach the 400 psi pressure required to extinguish the light bulb, and ever since, the brakes have been working just fine.

So it is a PITA, but keep at it. Sooner or later you'll come across a solution.

GerryLP:cool

 

[procketus]

"400 psi pressure required to extinguish the light bulb"
Ahh, did not realize that info. I don't think I was pushing that hard in the short sprint down the road. Will have to try hitting the pedal a little harder tomorrow.

Thx for the info guys. Will let you know what I come up with.

 

[GerryLP]

"400 psi pressure required to extinguish the light bulb"
Ahh, did not realize that info. I don't think I was pushing that hard in the short sprint down the road. Will have to try hitting the pedal a little harder tomorrow.

Thx for the info guys. Will let you know what I come up with.

You don't necessarily have to get the Vette moving and slamming on the brakes.

Vettehead Mikey is suggesting in using the brake booster to assist on extinguishing the light, but it can be done (albeit a bit harder to do) with the engine off. Just turn the key to the "on" position (if engine off) and lower the e-brake lever to see when the light extinguishes itself.

You can do it now in your PJ's in the garage. :L (of course, not the brake bleeding..)

GerryLP:cool

 

[LVMYVT76]

Just hit the pedal while the car is parked, you have to hit extremely hard to get the light to go off, like an emergency stop because of a short skirt going by.

 

[procketus]

Yep, that worked. Went out this morning,after I got dressed, and kept going back and forth and hitting the pedal. It finally went off.
The pedal also feels real good, and it stops very well.

So all is good now, at least as far as the brakes are concerned.

Appreciate the advice. Sure helped.

 

[GerryLP]

Glad to hear...

GerryLP:cool

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Went out this morning,after I got dressed,

Glad you did things in that sequence and it got your problem fixed