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Brake Pads Replacement

jnj

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2004
Messages
109
Location
SoCal
Corvette
2006 Machine Silver Coupe
Before I replace both front and rear brake pads this weekend on my 91 coupe, can anyone say if there is anything different than doing this procedure on any other chevy? Also, semi metallic or organic pads? Thanks to one and all who welcomed me back to Corvette world.
 
Whatever you do, stick with the OEM pads. They work the best.

I had aftermarkets put on mine and they squeaked like disturbed mice everytime they got dirty. The pads also spewed out a lot of brake dust. I hate brake dust. After 2,000 miles on those aftermarket units, I replaced them with OEM pads, it was the sound of silence all the time, everytime. And they generate very little brake dust.

Nice to see a fellow Socal with a 91 like mine. :D
 
I went with Bosch pads on my Toyota and Z28. I plan on using Bosch on the Vette' when the time comes.
 
Thanks to all!

I'm reading about clips to hold pistons in? Whats that all about and is there any tool that will work?
 
91Coupe said:
Thanks to all!

I'm reading about clips to hold pistons in? Whats that all about and is there any tool that will work?

I think they were referring to a clamp to push the piston back into the caliper when you install the caliper back onto the rotor. :) I've used C clamps in the past and they've worked fine.
 
Factory pads....C-clamps. Rather easy.

Metallic content makes them harder, which wears the rotors faster and MAY generate less dust. We all know that BMWs stop like stink, and I use factory pads AND rotors, which gives the best (and retains the factory) stopping power with balanced wear.

Ensure your rotors are smooth (turned or new) or you'll be doing it again sooner with less satisfactory result. i just did the entire car with parts from the excellent, Muskegon Brake: no squeeks. Those arise from either surface characteristics between the pad and rotor OR from the pad moving against the piston. Some pads are pre-coated; others use either a disc brake spray or a special grease to prevent mice noises. Also, ensure the sliding areas of the calipers are wire brushed clean and lightly lubed with brake grease to allow smooth, even movement of both sides of the caliper. Don't breathe the dust when blowing all the dust from the entire assembly, before lubing. BrakeKleen and other sprays eliminate any oils from the rotor and discs.

A decent coat of wax on the wheels and frequent washing seems to keep it at bay, best. Be careful about corrosive cleaners, too!
 
If it's a daily driver or weekend cruiser go oem, if you race then it's wide open & you don't care about dust & squeeks.:)
 
Hi
In 2000 I replaced the all 4 wheels wirh with new rotors and pads fom Vette brakes and and products. Rotors are sloted and heat treated, pads are Hawk.
it was and still is a great improvment over stock. The rotors are not as purdy as some i've seen,but I have not been disapointed with there performance.
 
Did mine 1yr. ago, used New topof the line rotors,ceramic pads All from Car Quest The whole deal was about 325 in parts at garage pricing!!!! WELL WORTH IT!!!!!:w
 
Hi
Forgot to mention.I have not noticed brake dust to be a nusance or any brake squeel
to date.
 
When you put the rotors back on make sure they are squeky clean or the dirt or dust on there will not let the brake pad seat all the way which might make it squek a little.
 
I've never used a c-clamp to compress the pistons. A pair of channel lock pliers works perfectly, and you can protect the caliper from the plier ends with rags or cardboard or something.
 
Thanks to one and all. Replaced all four corners with new rotors and ceramic pads for $600.00. A note to all used 'vette buyers....Make sure you get the locks to the lugs!!

Happy motoring!
 

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