Brake Power Booster Removal Suggestions?

[Whiplash]

I know I'm going a bit crazy with new threads this morning but I'm in it deep in the engine compartment right now. I need to remove and replace the brake power booster. I found the four bolts under the dash that hold it in but cannot figure out how to get to them the best way. Does the dash have to be removed to get at these nuts? The car is a 71.

Thanks,

Whiplash

 

[Art Jett]

On my '77 the only thing I had to do was become a contortionist with a ratchet , extension and a wobble socket. It wasn't easy, but it is doable.
Where are you in DFW?

 

[Whiplash]

On my '77 the only thing I had to do was become a contortionist with a ratchet , extension and a wobble socket. It wasn't easy, but it is doable.
Where are you in DFW?

Thanks for the advice. Looks like a run to Sears for me. For some reason a wobble socket is not one of the items in the tool box. Any excuse for a new tool.

BTW I'm in Keller.

 

[Art Jett]

My daughter , son-in-law and two grandkids live in Keller! They live about a block from the big Baptist church just off of 1709. If you ever would like some assistance with some project on the car, I'm at home occasionally. I'm in the oil business so I'm trapesing all over the world a good share of the time. I'd love to see your car. I could probably even be coersed into bringing the beer! You're right about any excuse for tools, I have a stack of Snap-on boxes that are full. Not much I don't have in case you need a specialty tool sometime. I just might have it for the lending. Not much better way to make a friend than that and a cold beer. I'm in Mexico at the moment, but returning tomorrow. YEA!

 

[street carp]

Whiplash (or anyone else), did you ever get all four bolts off without taking out the dash? I've got three of them off, the last one remaining is the upper left bolt (if you are inside the car facing the firewall.) This one is unbelievably hard to reach.

Also how is the rod removed from the brake pedal? It's hard to see up there from the footwell.

Matt

 

[Art Jett]

I already had the dash out by the time I got to the booster, but the rod is held to the pedal linkage with a small clip if I remember correctly. It's a ***ch to get at with the dash in place. Good luck.

 

[street carp]

Thanks for the quick reply, Art Jett. By "clip" you mean it can possibly be removed by hand? There is not much room up there, and I don't think I can see there directly.

I will be amazed if I can get that last bolt off without taking out the dash. It appears it's behind a metal bracket so a ratchet can't easily reach it. How big a job is removing the dash? Consider that yesterday I changed the master cylinder and bled all calipers which was tedious, but straightforward. Are we talking a lot of wires and small parts being dismantled that it's easy to forget how to put everything back together?

It sure doesn't help that it's hot and humid, and until next month this is my only car (with basically no brakes.)

 

[Art Jett]

If you remove the driver's seat, it will be "easier" to get to where you can see up there. I basically laid on the floor of my garage with my stomach across the door threshhold of the car. With a ratchet, a long extension and a wob ble socket you can get to all the nuts. You have to be somewhat of a contortionist though. As far as the clip- I'm out in the Yucatan in Mexico working at the moment, so I can't tell you exactly what it looks like, but you can pop it off by hand. That much I remember. Good luck!

 

[street carp]

Thanks Art Jett. At least now I know I should be able to do it.

Matt

 

[Whiplash]

Whiplash (or anyone else), did you ever get all four bolts off without taking out the dash? I've got three of them off, the last one remaining is the upper left bolt (if you are inside the car facing the firewall.) This one is unbelievably hard to reach.

Also how is the rod removed from the brake pedal? It's hard to see up there from the footwell.

Matt

Got the 4 bolts out but had to remove the dash. Probably could have done it without removing the dash but it was still a pain with the dash out. The clip on the pin from the brake pedal isn't too hard to remove but was tricky to get back on. Use some needle nose pliers. The good news is putting the nuts back on is easier since the threads are new and clean.

This was definitely not one of my favorite jobs to do.

 

[street carp]

I just came in for a breather. I got that last nut off after removing the seat and the clutch rod, which was held in by cotter pins. The brake pedal clip is also off. It took me a while just to figure out what I was looking for. It does look like it might be hard putting it back on, but I'm just glad I got the hardest part done.

 

[zgator]

My back is to bad so I had to take mine to the shop.I know the guy that did the work and he said it was hard but he didn't have to remove the dash.By the way I've got an 82.Ten years ago I would have removed the seat and went at it like you.I'm envious(sp)

 

[street carp]

I finished it. Going back together was easier since I knew how to get to each nut.

So I finally have brakes. The first symptom I had was on Sunday after getting off the highway no amount of force could bring the car to a quick stop. If I pushed down the brake pedal, the car would eventually stop, but ever so slowly. If I had a car (or a human) in front of me I would have crashed (or killed someone) when the problem 1st appeared.

Initially I assumed the master cylinder had failed and I was on only two brakes. I replaced it, but that wasn't it. The car needed brake fluid anyway since the old fluid was very dark and who knows how old. I never experienced a brake booster failing before, but now I have. It's unbelievably dangerous.

Thanks again to Art Jett and Whiplash for the help.

 

[C3 4ME]

Ain't it great to find a fix a problem like that yourself! It's a great feeling knowing you and of course some help from here got it done.

 

[street carp]

Yes, a great feeling. And saving money is only a side benefit. It brings you a lot closer to your car.

 

[SR7D1]

I plan on tackling this over the weekend. I too have a 71 and am replacing both the booster and master since my braking is very poor right now. It may not need a booster but I got a good deal on both master/booster so I'm going to replace both while I'm in there.

I know about the 4 nuts holding it on but I don't know how to bleed the setup once I get it reinstalled. I know if I where just installing a MC, to bench bleed it. How do I do it if I'm putting a new booster on as well?

 

[JohnZ]

Same way, just remove the master cylinder from the booster first (two nuts), bench-bleed it, then re-install to the booster after you have the booster installed.

 

[Scott Winebarger]

Thanks Art Jett. At least now I know I should be able to do it.

Matt

If you ever get in a bind the St. Louis C3 Sharks are a bunch of great guys!
We have tech days to work on projects such as this when help is needed .

 

[Mike M.]

I see you got this resolved. I felt a little guilty grinnin' as I was reading the process you went through. I would have chimed in earlier had I seen it. My brother who is 6'4" and I - 6'2" almost died trying to remove the damn power booster. We spent a whole day and were both stooped over with bad backs for before we gave up. My girlfriend pulled the damn thing out in about 10 minutes. Her rates are $75/hr for those interested

 

[SR7D1]

Update: I decided to start this last night. I removed the master and found that the rear holding tank had almost no fluid at all. :ugh

I had checked this twice this year and both times the compartment was full or semi full. The front tank was full. It was leaking around the top and after I removed it, fluid was on the top of the PS unit and steering rod.

I then crawled under the dash and removed 3 of the 4 nuts holding the booster on. I got retaining clip off the brake pedal and called it a night before addressing the last nut. I will attempt that tonight.

I am such a newb about brakes. For some odd reason, I thought there was fluid in the booster. :duh

I now realize the only thing needing bled, is the master.

Once I get the booster and master installed, I will need to bleed al the calipers. I noticed there are 2 bleed points on each of the rear calipers.
Is there anything special about bleeding Corvette calipers? BTW, none of them are leaking and all the hoses "look" good and have no visible leaks or wetness.

I will be searching the forums this morning for caliper bleeding and if anyone has some advice they want to give me, please feel free!