Brake Rotor Advice

[tlong]

What would be the best plan for 'spirited' street? Replace, turn and repad or just stick new pads in there? There are no ruts and feel totally smooth.

If I did buy new rotors should they be slotted and drilled or is that blowing money for looks? Just want a bit of guidance on the stopping portion of the program. May even go steel lines.

'96 has good calipers and 13" rotors. I really want to do it about right the first time.

 

[Jeffvette]

In a high performance car I'm against turning the rotors. You are taking metal off and making the structure inherently weaker. This is not a situation you want to get into while driving around "spirited" or on the track.

If the rotors are the stockers from 96, toss them and get some decent replacements.

 

[tlong]

OK

Will do. I talked to Chris at VetteBrakes. He has a set of 4 OEM rotors and Hawk HPS pads at a very good price. I don't think I'll go slots and holes in the rotors for cruising around, as he suggested against it for how I use my car. Good guy. Not sure if he is hooked up on the CAC or not, but he should be.

This is my first HP auto and will err to the side of upgrades vs. just getting by. It costs more, but I didn't get a Vette to save any money! I got it to freak myself out!

 

[Hib Halverson]

"Spirited Street" means different things to different people.

On this 96, if the brakes have served you well up to now, you have no problems with warpage, the rotor thickness is above the discard dimension and there are no grooves in the rotors over .015 deep, I'd leave the rotors on the car.

As for pads, if the brakes have served you well so far, I'd continue to use 96 Grand Sport pads.

There can be a noticeable improvment in pedal feel if you replace the stock rubber brake hoses with braided stainless-steel covered hoses. I got the ones on my 95 from Doug Rippie. My other cars use Aeroquip hoses.

Now, if you're going to replace your rotors with something you feel is capible of better performance, slotted rotors are always the better choice. Drilled rotors, unless they are rotors intended to be drilled in the first place, will crack under aggressive use. The best stuff comes from StopTec but, admittedly, they are expensive. No doubt, there are less expensive rotors but cheap rotors are that way because of cheap materials and rotors made with cheap materials tend to warp more easily.

With brake pads you walk a fine line between brake performance during aggressive driving, cold brake performance and rotor wear and, if your a show car type, brake dust.

For spirited street use, I prefer a fairly soft pad. For street driving, I'll take some brake fade under really hard driving before I'll take reduced brake performance in emergency situations on the street due to cold brake pads. In this case stock is ok. A slightly more aggressive pad which also works well when cold, is the best bet but, again, the good stuff is darn expensive. Right now my favorite is either the stock GM 96 pad or the pads marketed by Aaxis under the "Ultimate" brand. I'm sure there are others---like spark plugs, everyone has an opinion about brake pads.

When you change the pads or rotors remember to flush and bleed the sysetm and use at least a good DOT4 fluid. I like Valvoline Synthetic but, I admit, there are better (and more expensive) choices such as Motul DOT 5.1.

 

[scorp508]

Listen to Hib.

 

[tlong]

I have gone to the mountain

Thanks Hib. I didn't think this question would merit your input. Your opinion is word.

I like the way you see things with these cars, and I'll remember to try not to get too carried away.

Keep on throwing in your .02! We need your viewpoint.

 

[Tuna]

I'm with Hib also.

After 100k miles, I finally replaced the rotors on my 92 with stock rotors and went with stock pads. They do a great job on the street. I don't autocross it now and the only 'racing' I do is at the Big Bend Open Road Race and the only time I really need brakes there is at the finish line. :lol

During the first 100k, I replaced pads twice. Each time the rotors were checked and found to be just fine, so all I changed were the pads. Also, I added braided brake lines like Hib suggests. Good idea.

 

[ydphtwl]

I bought a high mileage 96 and gave it the once over and discovered I needed pads. The rotors were still good and did not have any pulsation issues. I used NAPA Ceramix. I am very pleased with the results. It takes a lot less foot pressure now to stop the car. I plan to add the braided lines and change the balance spring in the future.

 

[tlong]

Brake project

This project like most others for the Corvette has taken a few turns based on the responses. That is the value of the forum and the member input.

There are many options to consider with the brakes regarding rotors and pads, from Hib's conservative approach to all new technology. I guess this is true for most situations.

I lean towards new stock rotors and braided lines while it's easy to do. Fluid flush of course. Pads are up in the air. Stock, Hawk or the brand new ceramic type. There is no wrong choice, just preference I guess.

The bias spring is good for street? Isn't that a racing mod?

More research ahead. Thanks for the opinions.

Tim

 

[Hib Halverson]

Re: I have gone to the mountain

Thanks Hib. I didn't think this question would merit your input. Your opinion is word.

Ah, heck...I'm glad to be of service but as far as what I say being "word", just remember, I put my shop pants on one leg at a time like you guys and I screw-up once in a while.

As to the question about bias springs. IMO, any C4 in the hands of a talented driver who understands what happens when you dial in more rear brake, is better off with one of the aftermarket springs, like what Rippie sells.

However, if you are not a performance driver on a regular basis and you're familiar with how to handle a car with a bit more rear brake, I'd leave the stock bias spring in the master cylinder.

 

[88Z51]

Regarding turning rotors. Part of the reason for turning
rotors is to remove the glaze. If there is little runout
and only minor grooves, this usually only requires approx.
.020" of material to be removed. Hardly enough to make
much difference as far as heat dissipation goes. Really.
By removing the glaze, you are providing a fresh contact
surface for the pads. Many brake pad manufactures state
that removing the glaze is a requirement for proper pad
seating. Many also recommend a non directional finish be
applied to the rotors after turning. For proper seating
as well as curing of the pads, many pad / rotor manufactures
suggest a burnish break-in method. Bring the car to 35 MPH,
apply medium pedal pressure, and bring the car to a stop.
Drive approx. 1 mile to cool off the pads / rotors and repeat
approx. 20 times. Removing the glaze also helps assure the
new pads will not squeak.

 

[tlong]

Can you just rough them up a bit with sandpaper to get the glaze off? Heard you can do that.