Braking options

[Last Ride]

Hey all--
I have been researching braking options for our cars for some time. I have seen everything from o-ring stock calipers to Wilwood Dynalite II's to aluminum replicas of the stock brakes to Brembo's! My biggest concern would be the cost to benefit ratio of any of these systems. As far as weight and cost are concerned, the Wilwood conversion is tough to beat. My concern there is having too small of a rotor when upgrading to larger wheels. No one out there makes brackets for larger wheel/rotor combos. The Brembo system is the most complete overhaul, but starting at $1500 per axle, it might be the least practical. What do you folks think about the options out there? The stock brakes are not bad now, but I would like to save weight over the stock system and maybe even improve stopping power for a much hotter motor I am planning. What do you think?

 

[69MyWay]

Even with my 18" rims, the stock brakes (due to the massive size of the four piston stock caliper), still fill the void up pretty well.

If your brakes are working fine, take some time to clean and paint the calipers, and you will be plenty happy with the money you saved, and unless you are running 20" rims, the brakes won't look too small in the gap.

 

[cruisin-davey-g]

Hey all--
I have been researching braking options for our cars for some time. I have seen everything from o-ring stock calipers to Wilwood Dynalite II's to aluminum replicas of the stock brakes to Brembo's! My biggest concern would be the cost to benefit ratio of any of these systems. As far as weight and cost are concerned, the Wilwood conversion is tough to beat. My concern there is having too small of a rotor when upgrading to larger wheels. No one out there makes brackets for larger wheel/rotor combos. The Brembo system is the most complete overhaul, but starting at $1500 per axle, it might be the least practical. What do you folks think about the options out there? The stock brakes are not bad now, but I would like to save weight over the stock system and maybe even improve stopping power for a much hotter motor I am planning. What do you think?

Hi: SSBC www.ssbrakes.com makes a direct bolt-up conversion for the C-3's. It's the only place that I've found that has this conversion. It's a real nice set-up. But, I'm with "69MyWay"........unless you're going with bigger than eighteens, then the stock rotor & caliper will be OK. I'm gonna put a set of seventeens (17X8) on my '72 & will be using the stock Delco Calipers with crossed-drilled rotors. I'm gonna shave & smooth the calipers (remove all of the casting marks & imperfections) & then have 'em powdercoated, so that they'll look like billett aluminum & will retain the stock look. Nobody will know the difference except you. I saw this done on a street rod set-up that had Corvette rear suspension. Looked "Great". I've also smoothed & shaved a stock Master
Cylinder & water pump in pretty much the same way. But, in those instances I had those chromed. It's a little bit of work involved, but the outcome is worth it. My master cylinder & water pump look a hundred times better than the aftermarket chromed ones. Good luck!

Dave:

 

[MaineShark]

Wasn't there a post a while back, where someone had instaled rotors and calipers from a C5 on a C3? If I'm remembering correctly, it really wasn't all that much work, compared to most brake upgrades.

Joe

 

[Last Ride]

Even with my 18" rims, the stock brakes (due to the massive size of the four piston stock caliper), still fill the void up pretty well.

If your brakes are working fine, take some time to clean and paint the calipers, and you will be plenty happy with the money you saved, and unless you are running 20" rims, the brakes won't look too small in the gap.

Chris--
That's good to hear. I guess my only problem with the stock calipers is the unspring weight they add. I know the SSBrakes system is an aluminum replica, so that would offer the most aesthetically pleasing alternative. However, $700 per axle is steep. The Wilwood calipers are much cheaper, but they are also significantly smaller, so they may look a little goofy. For now, I will keep my stock calipers and then reexamine alternatives when the time comes to replace them. By the way, the wife cast the final vote on wheels for my car, and they were the Pentia 5's. I don't like being the "copycat" of such a popular car, but those wheels are awesome. I was thinking 17x8 for the front and 18x10 for the rear. Anyway, thanks for the input.

Joe--
I would be interested in that solution as well! I will search for the topic and let you know.

Bryan

 

[tscott9330]

Alrigh, so far everyone is talking looks. I want to know how the stock 78 corvette brakes stand up to a more modern system. Is there alot of difference in the corvette brakes from the late 70's and what i would have on my 99 Mustang ( sorry guys but until the vettes finished it's all i got to drive.)?

I would assume that performance would be similar because even though modern brakes have a little more technology behind them, the corvette would be close, because it is a vette and they have always been performance sports cars.

Is my assumption correct or, when i get the vette running am i gonna have to nurse it around so i don't plow into the back of someone?

Tom "Sorry I said mustang, It will never happen again" Scott

 

[cruisin-davey-g]

Alrigh, so far everyone is talking looks. I want to know how the stock 78 corvette brakes stand up to a more modern system. Is there alot of difference in the corvette brakes from the late 70's and what i would have on my 99 Mustang ( sorry guys but until the vettes finished it's all i got to drive.)?

I would assume that performance would be similar because even though modern brakes have a little more technology behind them, the corvette would be close, because it is a vette and they have always been performance sports cars.

Is my assumption correct or, when i get the vette running am i gonna have to nurse it around so i don't plow into the back of someone?

Tom "Sorry I said mustang, It will never happen again" Scott

Mustang.......What's a Mustang?

OK.............talking 'bout brakes. On my '72, I'll be sticking with the stock Delco Calipers. I figure that if you keep 'em in good shape; i.e. change the pads when needed, keep the rotors as clean as possible, & don't let the rears "run-out" with either bad rotors or worn wheel bearings, then the stockers should hold up fairly well. Even better if you've got the stainless sleeved, o-ring seal ones. It's nice to go to the aftermarket braking systems & there are alot of 'em out there, but the extra cost can hurt a budget. The newer aluminum calipers & slotted rotors (maybe crossed-drilled) help stopping power & overall brake wear & cooling & If you can afford a newer system, then "go for it". In my eariler post about this, I've only found one aftermarket place that has a caliper & rotor set-up that's a direct bolt on, without any modifications. Maybe someone else knows of another aftermarket manufacture that does. BTW: I'll be using crossed-drilled rotors with my delco calipers. This may help some & look nice too.

Dave:


"LastRide": The "Wilwoods" (small as they are) would look mucho nice & clean (in my book) behind a larger diameter rim especially spoke-type rims where everything can be seen!

Dave:

 

[Last Ride]

Alrigh, so far everyone is talking looks. I want to know how the stock 78 corvette brakes stand up to a more modern system. Is there alot of difference in the corvette brakes from the late 70's and what i would have on my 99 Mustang ( sorry guys but until the vettes finished it's all i got to drive.)?

I would assume that performance would be similar because even though modern brakes have a little more technology behind them, the corvette would be close, because it is a vette and they have always been performance sports cars.

Is my assumption correct or, when i get the vette running am i gonna have to nurse it around so i don't plow into the back of someone?

Tom "Sorry I said mustang, It will never happen again" Scott

Actually, it has been my experience that the stock brakes on a late C3 are much better than many of the cars today; and that includes the Mustang. We just traded my wife's 2000 Mustang in, and I must say that I was never impressed with its braking ability. I am perfectly happy with the way the brakes work now on my '78, but they won't look as nice one I go with larger wheels. That's why we were talking aesthetics. I want a system that won't break the bank and stops at least as well as the stock system.

Bryan

 

[tscott9330]

Wow thats great. That question has been bugging me since i got the car.

I am already shelling out a ton of cash to give my vette GO but it sounds like it already has plenty of WHOA. which will alow me to hold off on a break upgrade til my budget will let me.


I love this place!!!!!! Keep up the good work guys, I have found more useful information here than in all the books on vettes I have, Combined.

Tom Scott

 

[woobie1966]

hi all, I posted a similar question in the other c3 forum, i questioned the idea of going with after market brakes (i was looking at ssb force 10 kit. i got one reply so far stating that the stock calipers/brakes are fine unless i will road race. I believe he may be correct, but i do like the idea of improved braking. i may go with slotted rotors (i have heard stories of cross drilled rotors getting spider cracks) new pads, and some braided lines
with the money saved vs buying aluminum calipers i can start saving for the new paint/interior....

 

[cruisin-davey-g]

"woobie1966" says:

"i may go with slotted rotors (i have heard stories of cross drilled rotors getting spider cracks)"


I dunno about the spider cracking thing on the cross-drilled rotors & their design. If this being the case, why would cross-drilled rotors be used on the most expensive cars such as Lamborghini, Ferrari, & Porsche to name a few. These cars are made to go at very high speeds & need the most stopping power, I would think.
I do know that if you use semi-metallic or metallic brake pads, they will wear out rotors quicker & also cause rotor warpage, due to the fact that the metallic particles get imbedded into the rotor, causing them to rust pit & warp. Any comments on this are welcome.

Dave

 

[woobie1966]

hi dave, I first heard of the spider cracks on this forum(or the other c-3 forum). hmm, im glad to hear about the semi metallic pads, i was definitely leaning towards them. i really want the most reliable, best system for my car. that being said, I also dont want to spend $$ on something which is not going to help the car perform/ride better

 

[cruisin-davey-g]

hi dave, I first heard of the spider cracks on this forum(or the other c-3 forum). hmm, im glad to hear about the semi metallic pads, i was definitely leaning towards them. i really want the most reliable, best system for my car. that being said, I also dont want to spend $$ on something which is not going to help the car perform/ride better

"wobbie": Yeah, semi-metallic pads will last longer, but do run the risk of helping the rotor to warp. Non-metallic pads (organic) will wear quicker, but I'd rather change the pads than the rotors. Semi-metallic pads are good in racing applications (road, oval track, etc), where heavy braking is in demand.

Dave

 

[MaineShark]

I dunno about the spider cracking thing on the cross-drilled rotors & their design. If this being the case, why would cross-drilled rotors be used on the most expensive cars such as Lamborghini, Ferrari, & Porsche to name a few. These cars are made to go at very high speeds & need the most stopping power, I would think.

It depends on the quality of the rotor. Cross-drilling requires much more art and science than slotting. If the hole size, spacing, and pattern are not right, then there are indeed risks with using the rotors. I would tend to be wary of cross-drilled rotors, especially if I was not certain of the quality. Slotted rotors are less sensitive to this sort of thing, so they are a safer bet.

Joe

 

[cruisin-davey-g]

It depends on the quality of the rotor. Cross-drilling requires much more art and science than slotting. If the hole size, spacing, and pattern are not right, then there are indeed risks with using the rotors. I would tend to be wary of cross-drilled rotors, especially if I was not certain of the quality. Slotted rotors are less sensitive to this sort of thing, so they are a safer bet.

Joe

Yes, I agree. But, just about every rotor made is subject to some sort of defect & failure to a degree. I was putting semi-metallic pads on my everyday driver (van) & couldn't figure out why my rotors were warping after so many miles. I was always being told that my problem was improper torque of the lug nuts. Well, I went to non-metallic pads & haven't had rotor warpage problems since. My only advise about which ever rotors, pads, calipers you decide to use, just get them from a reputable place that warrantees such products. I have seen crossed-drilled rotors on many race cars & if they're that inferior, then I would tend to believe that these rotors would not be used, simply because in sponsered racing, money seems to be no object & safety is a must, so these racers must believe in them or they would not be using them. I'm not bashing slotted rotors, I'm merely pointing out that crossed-drilled rotors must be good or they would not be used on expensive autos (exotic, racing, etc.). Just my opinion.
Gee! This is starting to sound like a pros & cons rotor subject(?)


Dave: