Building your own strut rods

[norvalwilhelm]

For those that want to build there own strut rods.
Keep in mind that rod ends or Heim joints are NOT recommended for the street because of the added noise they transmit .
All my joints are rod ends and I do hear them sometimes.
This is the overall shot. The outer rod end is 5/8th and the stock shock mount stud will pass through a 5/8th rod end but you need spacers on either side to prevent it from moving back and forth
This is the overall shot.

This is the modified inner mounting bracket. The upper hole is the stock location. I welded extension below the stock hole and moved the hole 1 ½ inches down to make the lower strut rod parallel to the ½ shaft when sitting at normal ride height.

A little welding and drilling a new hole is all it take.
I bought everything from Coleman racing.
The lower strut rods are 13 inches. Part number RP 127 13 at $9.65 for aluminum and
Part number RP 129 13 for steel at about $10.50
You need 2 of these. I used the cheap aurora rod ends Part number 931-LM for left hand and part number 931-RM for right hand thread. They cost about $11.80 per rod end. These are not the good kind but I have about 20 of them altogether and never had a failure over the years. I do inspect them yearly and replace any that I notice any free play in. You can get much better rod ends but at almost 3 times the cost.
Just keep an eye on them once a year.
If anyone is interested in the upper rod for the 6 link it is 10 inches long, uses the same joints and is part number RP 127 10 @ $8.75
Hope this helps if anyone wants to do their own strut rods.
Coleman racing
http://www.colemanracing.com/

 

[lone73]

Norval,
Those are definitely some cheap rod ends. I replaced mine on my uppers at about 25K miles and I think I paid about $28 a piece for them. I didn't notice any noise issues when I switched over but I have PST poly on the lowers.

One problem I have had is trying to get a grease gun onto the fittings for the uppers. I installed mine pointing downwards so that I don't have to remove the wheel every time I grease it. The fitting points so close to the halfshaft though that I can't get the gun attached. I either need a 45 degree fitting or a 45 degree tip on the gun - have never been able to find either one.