buying a 79' nd want some tips....

[timg]

Ok, Here we go...
I may be buying a 79' and want some tips....
Here's what I know about the car.

it's a 4 spd with the original L82 engine in it...
it has t tops.
it is black and the paint has peeled off the driver's front fender.
is has a 4 spd
it's been garaged for 15 years
it runs and moves.... and the brakes all work.
it has 60,500 miles on it
I'll be looking at the car in person 2:00 sunday ... (tomorrow)

I have someone that'll paint the car for a good deal so that's not an issue. (he's done several vettes)

The clutch seems to work fine...

Should I attempt to drive this thing?
(after an oil change and basic fluid level checking)


What's a fair price?

I am new to the corvette scene (formerly a self confessed fiero addict)

.........and I can't wait to get things rolling.

 

[srs244]

just a general suggestion: any car that has been sitting for 15 years should have loads of seals dried out and "moving parts" (like bearings, etc) anything but freely moving. unless anything has been replaced and repaired recently, i wouldn't trust anything to work like it was designed, brakes in particular. i would think it would require a reasonable amount of attention (in the way of fluid replacements, etc) to make it moderately drivable. you were not specific as to what might have been done to it since being removed from storage (assuming it has actually been removed from storage before being put up for sale). i would think most of the weather stripping is probably pretty dried out as well as the foam baffles around the radiator that make certain air is directed through the radiator not around it. was the car started at all during that 15 years?? was any type of stabilizer used in the fuel while it was stored?? figure that all the fuel system will need a serious amount of attention (filters, tank, etc) if fresh fuel wasn't continually used (gas turns to a shellac type goo when left sitting for any period of time). these are just a few things to consider. they are no different for any type of car left stored for any period of time like 15 years. i'd make a real close inspection of the frame particularly around the places that the cross members meet the side rails and around the front and rear wheel area. good chance that the lower radiator support is also rusted (but that's not a big deal as they are readily available and easily changed out).

hope some of that gives you a place to start. good luck with your inspection.

steve

 

[hyprsprt]

just to make that car in decent shape and a decent driver u will spend at least 8-10k believe me so unless u r buying the car for 2-5 it will be to much u should look for something in good running cond. i think u can find one for around 10-12k. my 0.2

 

[OldSkool]

Yeah, cars that aren't driven regulary are generally bad news. Like what was said above, seals dry out and fluids gum up. Most likely, if you bought that car,the more you drove it, the more things would pop up needing fixing.

Unless you're planning a total mech. resto, it might be a good idea to pass.

I'm looking for a C3 myself, and I'm looking for one that has been a driver, not stored away for years.

 

[timg]

Thank you all...

The car has been driven about once a year around the circle drive and that's about it...
The price is? 2500 dollars.
The interior is verry nice and the car has had it's oil changed only once a year....
Over all I suppose that the car will have several issues "pop up" ... what do you think?

 

[OldSkool]

Oh wow, only 2500? In that case it might be worth it, especially if you're looking for a project.

I think things that will pop up will be alot of small things, like leaks. Brake lines will problably be rotted, fuel lines, engine seals, radiator and hoses, axle seals, things like that will need attention, probably sooner than later. And it'll most likely need new tires also.

 

[timg]

I suppose I'll take a slew of photo's for you all to see.
hmmmm,
I can see that this could be fun....

 

[78SilvAnniv]

For $2500, a reasonably priced paint job and possibly a crate engine in its' future along with various other little items...I'd still think it is a great find if you can do most of the mechanical stuff yourself...
Heidi

Let us know what you do!

 

[timg]

yeah, I think the paint will be taken care of fairly easily. I have several freinds
that build engines for circle track race cars so that should be fairly inexpensive as well.
.... kewl. I cant wait to get this thing in my hads so I can start working on it....

thanks all.
PS: is there anything that I should look out for??? where do these cars rust if they do indeed rust???
(I live in NY)

 

[78SilvAnniv]

Rust; the windshield pillars, use a white business card and run it under the molding and see if it comes out rusty. You can also check underneath the vette, the frame where the trailing arms connect...those are the only two places I can think of...

However, if this car has been stored for 15 years and only driven once a year in the driveway...I don't think you'll have to worry about any rust at all.
Heidi

ps, In the BLUE TABS at the top of the page, click on Learning Center and "Buying a Vette". It may be a little overkill, and some things may not apply, but you will be guaranteed to not forget to check something if you print it out and follow along while checking your possible purchase.
h

 

[Andy]

Since it has been sitting for so long, look for tire rot as well..especially around the sidewalls..crawl under the back of the car..look at the exhaust system from front to rear...check the mufflers as well...take the t-tops OFF the car..check the weatherstripping on them..may give u an indication if they will leak or not (maybe) and then your replacing the weatherstripping...

Andy

 

[timg]

Ok here we are.. the big day.
I'll be posting for opinions before I put the cash in the guys hands...
.and I'll be checking all the said locations for rust as well..

If there is any rust I may be passing this deal on so at that point I'll post my email for requests.
Oh yeah, the guy said that sll the numbers matcha nd the car has never been crashed
(he's the original owner)

 

[BarryK]

other than the seals, gaskets, and rubber hoses that dry out when a car sits that long, the most important areas I'd check is the frame and birdcage as previously mentioned.
on the frame make sure it's solid. surface rust is to be expected but make sure it's not all the way through the rails and cross members. I'd take a pick or screwdriver with you when you go look at the car and start poking and make sure it doesn't feel soft or poke thru the frame. Especially look at the kick-up areas just in front of the rear wheels as this area is prone to rusting out.
The birdcage is difficult to check well as it mostly covered up by body panels but you can look for telltale signs of bad rusting by looking around the windshield and the door jambs and channels for bubbling under the paint from rust popping thru.

 

[78SilvAnniv]

I really don't think you're going to have trouble with rust on a one-owner stored vette. And don't let a little surface rust back you off from this (possible) good deal, you'd have to determine if the rust was extensive and weakening the structural integrity of the frame...poke a screwdriver at the rusty areas, if it feels "squishy" (?) or 'gives' a little, I think that is bad. Definitely bad if the screwdriver can poke a hole! Surface flakes aren't bad...

Can someone else with more info and better descriptions elaborate for me?
Heidi

 

[KANE]

I really don't think you're going to have trouble with rust on a one-owner stored vette. And don't let a little surface rust back you off from this (possible) good deal, you'd have to determine if the rust was extensive and weakening the structural integrity of the frame...poke a screwdriver at the rusty areas, if it feels "squishy" (?) or 'gives' a little, I think that is bad. Definitely bad if the screwdriver can poke a hole! Surface flakes aren't bad...

Can someone else with more info and better descriptions elaborate for me?
Heidi

Be warned- all C3s rattle a little over railroad tracks. I haven't seen one that doesn't- even a little bit. Its not bad nor is there anything wrong, rather it is a part of the nature of the cars.

And if you see rust on the BODY... RUN!!!:L

 

[craig32]

Tim,
How did you make out with the car - did you get it? I bought mine a year ago this month, pretty much the same thing - $2500 and a bit of work to do, but nowhere near 8 - 10 thousand spent. If you're mechanically inclined you got it made. Don't forget, Corvettes at Carlisle is August 26-28. . . Keep me posted.
Craig

 

[kiwi vet]

Gee's you guys are lucky!

I paid $13.5k for mine, and that was by directly importing it. Will have to spend $ 3 - 5k to get it relatively good.

The "average" C3 here is between $ 25 - 45k for plastic bumper and $35 - 70k for chrome bumper, ranges depend on condition.

To give you a recent example 1971 Cortez Silver Man BB 3 owners 100k miles, original paint (needs redoing) interior average (needs redoing) and the general C3 problems we all know & love (?) = For Sale here @ $49k, and has turned down $48k offer. Remember also, they are thin on the ground here, so not a lot of choice.

Hence my import.

Maybe I need to go on a buying trip?

Good Luck with the search there.