So, for those of you who don't know or remember me... I parted with my mildly modded '74 bigblock last year. It was the worst day of my life. I did not think that I would be in the market for another Corvette for some time.
Lucky me
I am looking at a C6 ZO6 - Used.
What should I be aware of, known issues, technical bullitens, recalls etc... in my hunt? I would prefer 2007-2009
Also - I am very interested in sending what I do find over to the boys at Lingenfelter. I'm not seeing much if any feedback in the forum for these folks. ... I saw the video on Youtube of a 660HP package pulling out of a garage.
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave
Dave, let me see if I can be of assistance here.
As you know, the 2007 to present cars have the 5 yr/100,000 mile warranty. This is a nice feature.
The car engines built during Jan. 2007 and June 2007 have had a higher failure rate of rocker arm bearing cages. This might be something to take a good look at.
The 2008 tranmissions have been shifting "balky" 1st to 2nd to 3rd when cold. Once warmed up, they seem to be okay.
There is a recall for roof seperations for 2006 MY, so that is a non issue for you.
The 2008 MY also saw an "improved" steering system for better feel. If I wasn't told of the difference, I would not be able to tell the difference.
Coming from a 74BB, you might want to just drive the car for awhile, and then decide it you want the Lingenfelter equipment. Trust me when I tell you, it's going to be a whole new difference going from a C3 to the C6.
If you decide to go with the aftermarket system you need to remember that Chevy spent millions on getting the "balance" of the car, right. Injecting more torque will upset this balance. The car may be faster, but it won't be "better" IMHO.
I think this biggest difference you 'll discover is that the capabilities of the C6Z are so much higher than your C3 that you will just have an ear to ear grin everytime you drive it.
There are no snow chains that Chevrolet wants you to use on the C6Z. I had to sign a waiver that I would never attempt to intall chains on my car when I bought it 4 years ago. First time I've ever heard of such a thing.
Forgot to mention one more thing~ The clutch fluid gets "gummy" very quickly because the line from the M/C goes right by the factory shorty headers. This heat causes oxidation and fluid breakdown. An insulation kit would work wonders here. (Chevy, are you listening?) Anyway, it's too easy to minimize clutch issues (fallen pedal) by simply using a turkey baster to remove the coffee colored fluid and replacing with clear fluid. Unfortunately, it needs to be done every 3-4,000 miles. It is a PITA to flush the fluid from the slave because the driveline must be dropped. There is an aftermarket "quick flush" valve available but I've had great success in using the "baster/syring" method.
Oh, one more thing~ You're gonna be needing tires about every 15-20,000 miles...if you don't do burnouts. Be sure you get an alignment (but not from a dealer) as Chevy specs are so wide. I'll be happy to post alignment specs when you get your car.
One thing you'll quickly discover is how noisey ( rear tires) and how hot the interior gets. It's great during the winter but not much fun during the summer heat. There are things that can be done, but nothing has been perfect...yet. I've got dynamat in my car and it helped a little bit. It used to take the car 20 minutes to heat up the interior. Now, it takes 40 minutes. Better, but not like the regular C6.
I've had my 2006 Z06 for 34500 miles (bought Feb. 2006), I'm on my 3rd set of tires (GY runflats.) I've had my roof seperate (replaced via recall by dealership.) Since my car is out of warranty now, it has been tuned.
My car made 468HP/427TQ @ 1925 miles.
It made 474HP/443TQ @ 32,000 miles. (Zero changes.)
Tuned, it makes 494.7HP/ 454.5TQ. (tune ONLY.)
Hope this helps~
I had a "reverse lockout" solinoid go out (replaced under warranty.)
Jane Ann
