C1 recomendation on where to get fiber glass parts

[IH2LOSE]

Well as some of you know I am now the proud owner of a 1962 corvette needing some work.

One of the issuse I have have to deal with A.S.A.P is a poorley repaired front section. I will post some photos tonight.Right now I can grab the front left section of the nose and I can lift it up and down.there is 2 large cracks above the front left tire.( Originally from the photos I had seen and I thought this was cracked from an accedent but it seems to be from the front courner flexing)So far I think I can replace the entire front lower center section (seems that was the original impact area) and then I need some type of a repair panel to go across the front (above the grill up to the hood also soft and flexing and previously repaired) I am trying to avaid installing an entire front end on this cars.

 

[BarryK]

Hi Larry

can you try Mary Jo?

http://www.vettegal.com/

 

[John Mcgraw]

Larry,

If all the glass is there, then I would just repair the existing glass. Even without replacing the entire upper front end, you will have some splices where you will have to bond in the new panels, and that will likely be as much work as repairing the original glass. This is one of the nice things about a glass body, if enough of the original glass is there to indicate the original contour lines, then it probably can be glassed up and ground back down smooth. My 59 was crunched severely at the driver's tail light, and I built it all back up to where you can not tell it was ever reparied. My glass was mostly gone, so I had to use a contour gauge to transfer the contour from the opposite quater to the one being repaired.
If the glass is unrepairable, you will find that Paragon can probably supply a patch panel for almost any part of the car. They have a huge boneyard of bodies to cut parts from.

Regards, John McGrawe

 

[Ol Blue]

IH2LOSE

Take a look at The Corvette Image products. www.corvetteimage.com

I've seen some of their press molded parts and they really look good and are the right color. They even have a complete front end available made up in a jig so it has all of the bonding strips and everything is the correct color fiberglass. It's not cheap at $4295 though.

Good luck on your project, I've been considering upgrading a 54, so I'll be watching your progress.
Ol Blue

 

[Tom Bryant]

I totally agree with what John said. Must be something about '59s but my '59 was blasted in the left rear too sometime back when it was about new. The trunk lid had a huge gap and the quarter was repaired to where it sat lower than it was supposed to. I split apart the seam behind the bumper and cut apart all the rest of the repairs. Then reconfigured everything so the trunk gap was perfect and it all matched the right side. Then I glassed it all up and it is as good as new.

The right lock pillar was a different story. It had been t-boned at one time and after I removed all of the bondo, window screen and shoe box cardboard (really) I had no lock pillar. J&D Corvette in Bellflower CA cut a section out of a parts car for me from the middle of the rocker to the middle of the wheel opening into the floor about 18". I had this panel cut, fitted and glassed in one afternoon.

Due to a trailering misshap I have a broken up front valance. With the new part costing $840. plus freight I can sling a lot of mat and resin. The point being. If you have all the pieces or most of them, repairing is usually as fast and a lot cheaper than replacing major panels.

Tom

 

[studiog]

Hi Larry,
The crack over your front wheel well is probably from frontal impact. This always seems to be the weak spot that cracks on the C1s when you get hit in the front. I know from first hand experience about thirty years ago. I agree with John M. and Tom B. that if most of the glass is there and you you have most of the body lines intact your just as far ahead to repair the existing glass. It will be just as strong or stronger. Remember that once you get the body off you will have great access to both the inside and outside of these panels. You will also want to check the inner fender skirts for damage or loose bonding. This is easy to do also when the body is off. Since you are doing a restoration I would call Paragon as they have a discount program (10-15%) for restorers or anyone who is spending a good dollar amount. I have found it to be a good value for most of the parts I have replaced. Occasionally you may find better pricing elsewhere but that is the exception, not the rule. They have a hand laid front end for about $1200 or so if you decide to go that route. I think Corvette Central has a similar program and similar front end.

 

[IH2LOSE]

Thanks guys


I am having problems with my photo hosting.So I cant post my photos now.

I do understand what being said about repairing what I have but with all of the cracks I assumed it would be better to start with a new solid part. I will post photos as soon as I can.

 

[IH2LOSE]

Ok this is the online album I have all the way at the bottom you can see the cracks.I will up load all of the photos tonight

http://members19.clubphoto.com/lawrence748455/2589467/guest.phtml

 

[BarryK]

Wow Larry
looks like a long road ahead..........

but I bet it will be a blast working on it.
what's your timetable schedule? do you plan on trying to have it all done by a certain date? i'm assuming next month is a bit out of the question. :L

 

[00fxd]

Looks like a good one Larry. Looks like all/most of the parts are there?
I especially like the backwards t-bolt teardrop hood scoop.

 

[Tom Bryant]

I wouldn't even dream of replacing the front clip if that's all the damage you have. Once you get into it you will have it repaired in a weekend.

 

[IH2LOSE]

Wow Larry
looks like a long road ahead..........

but I bet it will be a blast working on it.
what's your timetable schedule? do you plan on trying to have it all done by a certain date? i'm assuming next month is a bit out of the question. :L

Barry

This project is on the fast pace.As crazy as it seems I plan on driving this to Corvettes of carlilse next year.So that means it will be done a while prior so I can shake out the bugs. You have to remember I have been planning this for a couple of years.Allthough following John Magraws project has caused me to make several changes (all adding time and money I should also add quaility ) And I have had several stumbling blocks (like the media blaster the car was going to is no longer there.all the cars still in his yard but the place is closed up) I can go on but I wont I just have to stay the course. You know I have a lot of freinds and neighbors look at the car and think I am crazy But It will really go fast as long as I am working on it

Thanks again
Lary

 

[IH2LOSE]

I wouldn't even dream of replacing the front clip if that's all the damage you have. Once you get into it you will have it repaired in a weekend.

Thanks Tom

You make me feel better I just fealt looking at it that is should be replaced

 

[IH2LOSE]

Looks like a good one Larry. Looks like all/most of the parts are there?
I especially like the backwards t-bolt teardrop hood scoop.

You know I am looking for a new hood now but when the car goes to paint that hood will be painted also.I will have that hood on the car at some times. all though its out of place for the car I am building ,it has way too much carector to not use

 

[John Mcgraw]

Larry,

I agree with Tom, I have fixed much worse than that! I would repair that amount of damage even if I was going to Top Flight the car. This is an easy fix.

Regards, John McGraw

 

[61 Silver]

fiberglass repairs

John;



When you are repairing fiberglass, what are you using for your repair products? I have noticed on many Corvettes that the repair (glass cloth and resin) shrinks and show through the paint.



Thanks Ray

 

[John Mcgraw]

Ray,

When repairing Corvettes, I always use glass mat only and polyester resin.
Steer clear of woven cloth as it will tend to telegraph through to the surface. 53 cars were made of woven cloth, and you can see it on the surface in the correct light. All Glass shrinks out as it cures, so it is good practice to let a repair age for a couple of weeks before doing your final sanding. Keep in mind that the strongest repair comes from using a minimum of resin. A repair that is rich in resin makes for a brittle repair and much more shrinking. I always grind the cracks out to a nice shallow V that is at least 1" wide. I then build up the glass in several layers to a level above the desired final finished level. After the repair has cured, I grind the repair down with a disc grinder to get the repair close to level and then finish out with an air file to get a dead level surface.
Such a repair almost never needs any filler, and can usually be brought up to perfect with a couple of coats of surfacer and block sanding.
Regards, John McGraw

 

[Tom Bryant]

I watched a company that builds booms for bucket trucks lay up booms one day. These were 21 feet long. After they wrapped the mold tube in the required number of layers of resin soaked mat they wrapped the whole thing in plastic wrap and tied off the one end. Then they hooked a vacuum hose to the other end and litterly sucked all the access resin out of the woven mat. Then they were sent to the curing area where hot air was circulated through the inside of the tube to heat cure the resin.

Most fiberglass repair suppliers can sell you a roller to roll out the access resin. That will work well on these fenders. Also the shop mentioned above didn't use gloves to work with the resin. They made it harder to handle the large sheets. Instead they had buckets of acetone sitting around. A foot lever would open the lid and you just washed your hands. Took only a couple seconds. This was a lot of years ago and I'm not sure if skin contact with acetone is recommended anymore. I use it to clean up resin when I'm working as I don't think I have enough exposure to it to make any difference.

I though this would be a good indication of why excess resin is a bad thing where strength is required.

I use a common drywall saw, sabre saw, straight cut router bits, drill bits ect. to clean out the cracks. You need to cut through the crack to clean out the broken strands and take the stress off the fracture. Once that is done the pieces will usually line up pretty close by themselves. Don't be afraid to get agressive with your grinding when v'ing out the crack. I use a 36 grit disc. You can use clamps or even steel straps and screws to line thing up so you can put a couple layers of backup to hold things in shape. Once your backup has cured remove the straps and rough up the backup for the next layers. I use a heat lamp to hurry things along. 10 - 15 minutes of heat and let it cool to the touch and it's good to go.

First and second pic is the quarter that was in several pieces and the lip reinforcement was missing. Now it fits.

Pic 5 is the lock pillar I replaced. You can see I haven't finished the floor seam yet. (John, It's been cureing for 30 some years. :L) This panel is spliced about 15" into the rear wheel well.

The other 2 are the front fender and hinge piller. When this car was t-boned the hinge pillar twisted and the hinges punched through the outside of the fender. It also had a '58 door. Now it has a '60 door, no more bondo and all the original fiberglass was repaired. The door works great.

This was my first glass repair so you can see what can be saved.

 

[Tom Bryant]

Here's a couple of the busted valance that I have started to repair. With about 3/4 of the cracks cleaned out everything will already line up without forcing. I have about 1 hour in this. Lots of grinding to go though.

The repair panel that matches the original from Ecklers would be well over $900. with freight included. This isn't no NCRS restoration so why not fix what I have?

If you rub a heavy hand loation like Corn Huskers, on your face and arms the glass particles don't get in your skin nearly as bad. I think the f'glass supply shops have special lotions too. Long sleeves are recommended too and wash these cloths seperately.

 

[studiog]

If you rub a heavy hand lotion like Corn Huskers, on your face and arms the glass particles don't get in your skin nearly as bad. I think the f'glass supply shops have special lotions too. Long sleeves are recommended too and wash these cloths seperately.

Very good advice. Grind outdoors if possible. I sometimes use a fan at close range to blow allot of the particles away as I am working. Usually works very well but sometimes not. :L I use compressed air to clean off the entire body when done. I keep one pair of clothes for this task and do a double laundry wash of just these clothes. A luke warm shower and lots of soap to get the glass out. I wear eye protection also. Isn't acetone what my wife uses to remove nail polish? :L