C4 brake pad replacement

[Rain]

Ok - 1996 coupe.
Pulling the wheels Tuesday.
Getting her up on the jack stands.
And gonna find out why the brakes have been squeeking here the past week or so.

Assuming its just worn brake pads.

C - Clamp should be all thats needed to get at the front ones, right?

And a clamp and a wire coat hanger(to hold the emergency brake up in position and out of the way) for the rear?

Anyone posted a step by step of this proceedure?


Tried the search. Got a few good ideas, but nothing solid.

Thanks for any help tonight

Rain

 

[Rain]

Headed to bed. Read thru the 2 pages in the Haynes manual that I have.

Going to look for additional info so I wont be confused under there! haha

Thanks
Rain

 

[Robertwav1]

I just did my 93. I would imagine the same . Easy job....Pin on the bottom of the holder pulls out and you can swing the caliper back. C-clamp using one of the old pads as a buffer to drive the piston back. The backs I had to take out the two bolts to replace pads. Hope it helps!

 

[kingman]

????????????

HI Rain

Do not forget if you replace your front pads that you must make sure that the pads have clips to prevent them from rattling. The Delco's have them. $219 plus labor.

When l picked up my 96, it had a rattle from the front that l couldn't pin down until l had it checked out. That was $300 later.

Do not get thrifty with your brakes, if your not sure, have a pro do them.

Alan

 

[Eagle85C4]

Raybestoes Pro pads....stop on a dime and no dust....

 

[Rain]

Wagner MX412 Semi Metalic pad. List on them was $140.66, I paid about half that.
Didn't want to go cheaper.. Could have gone up one more level but my price on those was 140$.

Install was done at my friends backyard garage.
Printed out some directions from Chiltons online manual.

Once we did one, of course the other was quick.

Stops nice and fast. No more squeeling.
Made sure we pulled the tabs off the old pads and re used them on the new ones./
CAC saved me there!

Then did the Throttle bypass.
Simply pulled both coolant lines, pickedup some caps from O'Reilly Auto parts down the street. and cut the hose to fit nicely into the pipe on the pass. side of the fuel rail. Used the existing clamp to hold it.
Looks good and tight.

Thanks everyone here for such great advice!!!
Rain

 

[Robertwav1]

I had a pro do mine when I first got the car...they didn't clean anything, the car was hard to stop and had a nasty vibration in the front end at high speeds. Here, when they cut one of the front rotors, they used an improper hub for the mounting causing the rotor not to be true. The vette rotor is different from other cars, it's wide. After re-doing the brakes myself, knowing something was wrong, I took the rotors to another machine shop and they found it. Problem was you could not see this unless the rotor was spinning on the machine. What makes a pro is somone interested enough to do the job the right way and take the time to read about how to accomplish that. Whatever one don't understand can easily be asked. IMO.

 

[Redmanf1]

Don't forget to burn them in, seat them. Good job

 

[KOPBET]

I see that this information is a little too late for you Rain but here is a step by step for the next one.

This information is adapted from Vette magazine October 2003. This is a great article on C4 brake service. Try to get a copy and read. This list is generalized and may not be all inclusive. Check instructions that come with the new pads. I bought AC Delco. They do also come with a new guide pin bolts, one for each side.

• Always replace all pad assemblies as an axle set.
• Raise and support the car properly with jack stands. Remove wheel(s).
• Replace two lug nuts back on the rotor to hold it in place.
• Remove and DISCARD the top self-locking caliper bolt from the guide pin.
• Rotate the caliper back on the lower caliper bolt to expose the brake pads.
• Remove the pads from the mounting bracket.
• If necessary, remove about half the brake fluid from the master cylinder so that it will not overflow when pistons are seated back into caliper bores.
• Using brake caliper tool (or C-clamp) carefully seat the piston back into the bore.
• Clean surfaces of pad guides on mounting bracket and pad contact surfaces on piston and caliper housing.
• Set the new brake pads in place. Put the pad with the wear sensor on the piston side with the wear sensor on the trailing edge of the pad with forward wheel rotation.
• Ensure the springs do not protrude through the inspection hole in the caliper housing,
• Install NEW upper guide pin bolts and torque to specs taking care not to damage the boot. ('96 C4 is 26 ft/lbs).
• This is a good time to flush the old brake fluid from the system.
• Replace the wheels and lug nuts. Torque to specs ('96 C4 is 90 ft/lbs.).
• Check and top off brake fluid if necessary.
• Drive the car and "bed" the brakes. Run up to 40 MPH and brake down hard without locking brakes. Repeat. Make sure you do this is a safe place!
• Let the brakes cool for 15 minutes and repeat above two more times.

Easiest brakes you could ever change!

 

[Rain]

Thanks!

Yes, I need to pick up a copy of that.

Good info you posted there -
The pads I bought didnt come with a new pin, although the toughest thing we tackled was that C clip thingy..
shesh!
gotta be a better design for those things


Thanks again!
Rain