you could simply put a stack of washers between the nut and the spring at the left rear (drivers side) to raise the rear left to match the right rear...that will also load the right front more and the right front will go down, hopefully to abt the correct height to match the left front...BUT you MUST then find a race car shop (well equipped circle track shop is best bet) that will put your car on FOUR corner scales (one at each wheel) to check that you have not now ''wedged'' your suspension, which would affect cornering, possibly enough to be extremely dangerous potentially fatal, for street use (you may be ''wedged'' now, causing the existing ''tilt'', a ''scale'' check before making any adjustments would be of interest)...YOU CANNOT DO THIS WITHOUT FOUR CORNER SCALES.
better, but much more work, front and rear springs both have factory installed spacers between the respective two sides of each spring and its mount...varying those spacer thicknesses on one side of the spring a small amount will change ride height several times the spacer change...the rear is much more readily accessed than the front...again - you MUST put the car on four corner scales to check that dangerous ''wedge'' has not been introduced.
changing ride height WILL change wheel alignment, you'll likely need another alignment done...that new alignment MAY change the ride height/ wedge a bit, prolly not enough to be easily noticed ( unless you are as picky as me, requiring several attempts to get ''dead on'')
fuel load and driver (& pass ?) weight as will exist during typical operating conditions should be simulated during adjustment.
do not expect any ''alignment'' shop to understand anything about ''wedge'', but any GOOD race car shop will be ahead of you as you speak.
around here, $!00 will get your car scaled and adjusted in most race shops (some for half of that if you catch 'em right)
