C4 spark plug replacement help.

[4U2NV1986]

Ok, what are the tricks of the trade to get the back two plugs out of the passenger side engine bank? Two of those buggers are almost completely out of sight, not to mention trying to get a socket and torque wrench on them. The plug by the fire wall is even tough to get a hand on. How in the world can those last two plugs be replaced with minimal grief and disassembly. I'm trying to remove those plugs from the top. Any comments would be very helpful.

 

[vader86]

be prepared to start cussing

It probably took me an hour and a half to get those buggers out, 2.5 to get the whole passenger side. Whereas the drivers side all come out in an hour.

dont use torque wrenches

What I did since I couldnt get that back plug to come loose is tie an old plug wire around my wrench and pull like hell until it finally broke loose, my arms are too long to get much leverage against it any other way.

 

[8388]

Use a socket like this one

Then use a combination wrench ( I believe a 3/4" )on the end. Do yourself a favor and make sure to apply thread ease on the spark plug threads going back. Be careful starting the splug back in as these are the ones most people end up cross threading.

 

[Moonunit 451]

Ok, what are the tricks of the trade to get the back two plugs out of the passenger side engine bank? Two of those buggers are almost completely out of sight, not to mention trying to get a socket and torque wrench on them. The plug by the fire wall is even tough to get a hand on. How in the world can those last two plugs be replaced with minimal grief and disassembly. I'm trying to remove those plugs from the top. Any comments would be very helpful.

If I recall corrctly there are a couple ways to go about this. Try a 5/8' wobly plug socket with a 6" extention. If you don't have or can't get the floppy, use a 5/8 " plg socket with 6 pt. wrench end on it and you can break it loose with a 3/4" closed end wrench. After you do this enough times you can do it in minutes, even with the engine hot. Don't ask how I know

A short, 2 to 3" 3/8 heater type hose that is fairly straight makes re-instalation a snap, although I go to where I could do it with the deep well sitting as Vader suggests. I also think it is a possibility that you can go through the wheelwell from below if you remove the rubber guard.

8388 whooped up on me while I was lamely typing away

 

[wawhite]

Might want to invest in one of these

I have an LT1 and the Sidewinder ratchet sure helped to get the back plugs out. JC Whitney and many auto parts stores carry this or something similar.

 

[wx briefer]

Just be careful not to put any pressure on the A/C plastic housing. It will crumble and cave in at the mere thought of pressure.

 

[brookman]

The socket and the wrench is the easy way to go . I got the whole job done in 45 min. The last one is the hardest - make sure you start it by hand so you dont cross thread it.

 

[Daryllawman]

Use a socket like this one

Then use a combination wrench ( I believe a 3/4" )on the end. Do yourself a favor and make sure to apply thread ease on the spark plug threads going back. Be careful starting the splug back in as these are the ones most people end up cross threading.

I agree......those are the tools I used.....The only way I could get them out....a little turn at a time.....good luck

 

[drags1998]

Having only done this a few times, Iwould not pretend to tell you it was easy. Heres what I do, Take MY TIME!!! LET IT COOL DOWN!!! grab all the above tools,(all the ones you need are there) ALWAYS,ALWAYS START WITH THE HARDEST ONE!!!!!!!!! In between each plug,Sit back and take a second, and realize just how LUCKY YOU ARE!!!!!!!!!!!! To be putting yourself thru this MISERY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:L

 

[Edmond]

Like 8388 said, make sure to use some anti-seize on those plugs so they're easier to change in the future. There probably isn't anything worse than trying to break tight plugs loose, especially when you don't have the leverage that gives you strength.

And yes, be prepared for a lot of cursing. If you have children at home, tell them, "Earmuffs on!" :L

 

[Moonunit 451]

If you do it enough times it's easy, believe me, takes a few minutes max

 

[Hrtbeat1]

be prepared to start cussing.

You got that right. I take the A-arm section of the wheelwell skirt off and being that my arms are long and skinny enough, snake them thru and around to get to the plug. One thing Ive found that helps is to get one of those T-handle universal (wobbly as Moonunit put it) spark plug sockets. You can actually get some good torque on them if positioned just right. That and reaching thru with one hand and over with the other may just be the ticket. Other than that go with 8388 and Daryllawman's sugesstion of using a socket with the six point on the end.

Like Moonunit said after a couple of times you will figure what works best for you.

 

[4U2NV1986]

Spark plug replacement.

Thanks for all of the tips on the spark plug job. I assume that it safe to say that this will be a no beer job.

 

[fastglass95]

Well! Don't throw the BEER away yet!

First, I find it quite simple to jack the car up high and secure with jackstands, then dis-connect battery and remove the starter (it's only 2 bolts!) and come in from the bottom with the spark plug socket and the 3/4" open end wrench as mentioned above, you may be able to use a rachet.

Starter really does come out easy!, no need to remove the metal shield over the torque convertor, just two bolts and the 2 wire connections. Then you can reach right up in there from underneath.

NOTE: On LT1's this is a good time to change the dreaded "fuel filter", with the starter out of the way.

Re-install new plugs with "anti-sieze" compound and only torque to 11-18 lb./ ft. You will not get a torque wrench on them, but do not over torque, this is not very much torque! Maybe 1/16 of a turn past hand tight is all you need with these tapered end plugs. Also use a silicone grease on the porcilan part of the plugs prior to attaching the wire boots, aids in wire removal next time!

Second: Hello Medina, Ohio......Delivered Dominio's Pizza there in 1987-1988 as a second job! (CAUTION: my X-wife still lives there )

 

[4U2NV1986]

spark plug replacement help.

Tapered seat? Hmmmmm.... The Bosch 4301's I bought have the crush gasket. Not taking a plug out yet, I'm not sure what type is in there or should be.

 

[fastglass95]

It may have a crush gasket on an 86, later models used tapered seat type, if it's a gasket type, torque may be differnt.

Do you have the "aluminum heads" or cast iron?

 

[Bob Yates]

I have read all the post and I noticed two subjects that were not addressed. Does everyone assume that he has aluminum cylinder heads. Not all 86 rag tops had them. Removing plugs from those heads can be damaging if the heads or not stone cold. The other question is how big are your hands. Take my Dad he has 13" fist and can't begin to get to those plugs out once their lose. On my 86 I do have aluminum heads and I losen the plugs with a long 6 point 5/8 socket with a nut on the end like the one in the post above and I have no problems. Their out in two or three minutes . Putting them back in is a little more tricky. You can cross thread aluminum very easy. Good luck....Bob Yates

 

[4U2NV1986]

Spark plug replacement.

They are Aluminum Heads. I have read about all of the cross threading issues surrounding these heads. My concern is that the plugs that are in there are Champion, so the previous owner changed them, and if he did not follow the proper proceedure, I could be creating a big mess for myself if those plugs cannot be removed easily. The car has 56,000 miles on it and it runs fine, but I find that I can't leave things alone with this car.

 

[Edmond]

The car has 56,000 miles on it and it runs fine, but I find that I can't leave things alone with this car.

That's what the Corvette is about. Yeah, you do get a lot with a stock car but our hearts always yearn for more! :L

 

[vms4evr]

On the LT1. The back plug on the passenger side. I've tried that Sidewinder ratchet before. Cheap construction. Broke it in short order. It's also big and not easy to maneuver in tight places like that. I tried a Gear Ratchet set I bought at Sears for about $30. The head, extension, and socket are all hollow. It's made for working with things like threaded rods and the like where a deep well socket won't work.

It has a slim handle and with the short extension and the small socket on it you can fish it down to the plug, slide it on, and get it out with very little cussing or fighting. Once you get the new plug threaded it is also no big deal to get it in. So far this has worked better for me than any other method.

Here is a link to what I'm talking about.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00930593000

Graham