Cam recommendations

[MaineShark]

I'm thinking...

And I know I get in trouble when I start a project...

But with the hood and cooling system already removed, maybe a new cam is in order?

First, I need to figure cost. I know I will need the cam itself, new lifters, and some gaskets. But what else do I need to replace at the same time? Timing chain? Bearings (not sure if these are reusable or not - I've never swapped a cam before)? Anything else?

Second, any recommendations?

My engine has been replaced, and I can't find much info on it, so I'm not certain exactly what the CR is. I know it made 200hp and 260ft-lbs at the rear wheels, on the dyno, so it's close to stock.

I've got a TH350 right now, but I'm planning on swapping in a 200-4R.

I'm also strongly considering a better intake. Probably an Edelbrock Performer Air Gap.

I'm mostly interested in low-end grunt, since that's where the fun is

Joe

 

[iron cross]

I`m a solid lifter person for raw HP, but there is a very good hydraulic cam called the GM 151. This was used in the 60`s as a 350HP 327 CI engine. It works great in later model 350`s. A real good intake is one from the 70 Vette LT1 370HP engine which should fit under the Vette hood.

 

[Jack]

maybe a new cam is in order?First, I need to figure cost. But what else do I need to replace at the same time? Second, any recommendations? I'm not certain exactly what the CR is. I know it made 200hp and 260ft-lbs at the rear wheels, on the dyno, so it's close to stock.I'm mostly interested in low-end grunt Joe

Joe:
These quality hydraulic flat tappet cams available locally quite cheap through most parts houses & auto machine shops. Sealed Power-SpeedPro-TRW pn CS1062R = .468” / .480”, 220° / 231° @0.050” w/ 110° LSA ... or ... Clevite-Dana-Perfect Circle pn 229-2296 = .454” / .480”, 216° / 228° @0.050” w/ 107° LSA. Cams available w/ lifters too. Both sources have a wide selection of other profiles.

Same cheap sources for true double .250” roller timing set. Sealed Power-SpeedPro-TRW pn 220-3100 ... or ... Clevite-Dana-Perfect Circle pn 93100. If your old cam gear is plastic-jacketed ... and if you find bits of plastic gone from teeth ... then you'll need to drop the pan & clean/replace op pickup screen.

Same cheap sources for fresh pushrods. Sealed Power-SpeedPro-TRW pn RPK5000R or pn RP3212R ... or ... Clevite-Dana pn 213212R ... or Perfect Circle pn 2154141.

Gonna need a timing cover seal ... check damper snout for groove (repair) ... get a Redi-Sleeve kit locally about $5 ... check damper’s ring for slippage (replace).
JACK:gap

 

[1979toy]

I've got a Comp Cams XE-262 and love it. GREAT low end power. It does have a bit of a lope to it that not everyone will like.

You may need to change valve springs, depending on how much lift you get with the new cam. Stock springs are OK to about .460 lift. I always use the cam manufacurers recommended valve springs to avoid self inflicted mistakes.
The torque converter may need to be changed if you get too radical in your cam selection. My XE-262 is borderline, I think that the engine would be happier with a 2000 RPM stall converter but Comp said that the stock converter would be fine.

It sucks having the car apart during driving season doesn't it?

 

[MaineShark]

Thanks, guys.

Much as I hate to take the car apart twice, I think I'm actually going to wait until after I do the transmission, so I can make sure that the cam and converter will be balanced properly.

Joe