Can this amount of clearance for the motor mount be right????

[firstgear]

Got my motor mounts from Myers Racing to weld on the 60 frame...also bought from Summit a set of polyurethane small block chevy motor mounts as well as the bolt that Summit lists as the bolt to attach the motor mount to the frame mount....

Here is my question....just looking at how it goes together it appears to me that the amount of clearance between the bolt and the frame mount is too much

and that the clearance between the motor mount and the bolt is too much...seems to me that the motor could "rock" way too much...

add up all the clearances and it seems way too much.....those of you that have put these things together before....what do you say?

this is the mount I bought

link to mount: http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=motor+mount&searchinresults=false&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=115&target=egnsearch.asp

these are the bolts I bought

link to bolts: http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=motor+mount&searchinresults=false&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=115&target=egnsearch.asp

ok......comments??????

 

[WayneC]

Doesn't look right to me either, seems like you need a larger diameter bolt, or a steel bushing/sleeve of some sort. How does the bracket fit within the mount, fore & aft, is it snug with the washers in place?

 

[Vette66AirCoupe]

I can't comment on your problem, but I have a question. Are you using a stock frame? Why do you have to weld motor mounts to the frame? I thought I remembered seeing in Myer's ads that the front end was a complete bolt on replacement system with one caveat, some welding was required to support the steering column which would have to be changed to a Flaming River or Ididit model. :confused

 

[Stan's Customs]

I can't comment either ...I don't picture what you are describing. Mounts on cardboard are what? Do you have a pic that shows the correlation to your frame?

I know that you have to weld on side mounts if you go from the waterpump/front mounts to frame side mounts, but I don't see what you are asking. Looks like you would have to do an in frame mock up to tell anything...

Stan...

 

[Kid_Again]

Same thing with me but I would never install or feel safe in a vehicle with motor mount holes being oversize.

Unfortunately, I would go back to square one.

 

[BarryK]

motor mounts? you doon' need no stinkin' motor mounts!
just set that thing down in the frame, use some hot glue, wire ties and duct tape and you are good to go! If you need to position the motor a little differerntly than a nice pice of lumber works well - just be sure to get the premium lumber with the bark still on it. I think Bubba has a few pieces laying around in the corner you could use.
just don't forget the important part......... after getting the hot glue, wire ties and duct tape all installed, coat the entire area with JB Weld and that will keep everything nice and tight and nothing will come undone.

 

[Hib Halverson]

The engine and trans mount kit you got from Summit is correct for putting your engine in a stock, 63-up Corvette. However, the engine mounts are not right for a C1.

It's hard to tell because not enough information is given but it looks like this is a race car, not a street car.

The frame brackets discussed are not going to work because their holes are too large. If this is a race car, get frame brackets with proper sized holes. If this is a street-driven C1 being updated to a later engine, I'd use the C1 front engine mount assembly which is very much like that on a tri-5 Chevy.

If you're still going to convert the C1 frame to the C2/3-early C4 engine mounts, don't forget about driveshaft angles. If you get that out of whack (though raising or lowering the engine too much) you'll end up with some driveline vibration.

As for the engine mounts in the pictures, the oval shaped holes in the mount are to compensate for car-to-car differences in the width between the engine mounts. Since,engine movement is perpindicular to the long axis of those holes, the engine will not "rock to much".

 

[firstgear]

This is for a street rod based on the '60. I have a 383 stroker, Myers Racing front and rear end along with a Tremec TKO600 5 speed to put in it. The rear end is a 9" Ford with 3:55 gears and a posi.

The plan is to get rid of the over the top motor mounts that are in the C1 and go to later style motor mounts that attach to the lower bottom side of the motor. Remember I have removed the entire front suspension to be replaced with a Myers Racing front end with rack and pinion steering.

I intend to put the motor in the stock location with the new mounts, it will not be higher nor lower than the stock motor position. I know it would be best if I did lower it for many reasons, but I don't have that much experience to bite that off, so I am putting it back in exactly the same position to minimize risk.

I will use the original stock C1 mounts to get the motor in the right position with the stock tranny and its stock mount.

Attach the bottom lower mounts to the motor with the frame mount attached and tack weld to the frame.

Disconnect the two mounts from each other and pull motor and tranny out.

Finish welding on mount to give secure (no glue Barry...sorry that doesn't work on C1's, no problem though for C2's).

I want to dress the motor up on top where all those crazy over the top motor mounts go with various pieces of billet hardware (March pulley system) so the mount has to go.

The all steel mount I got from Myers, that is what they sell for mounting the motor as I am suggesting to the frame. And of course you all saw what I have for the mount to attach to the motor.

Myers said they use a 2142 Partsmaster type of mount, I will go to the parts store to see how different that is from the mounts I got from Summit...also will get the bolt that is supposed to go with that mount and see what it is like.

 

[Vette66AirCoupe]

Regarding your clearance question, after you get the motor in with the old mounts hooked up I'd suggest locking your brakes on with a hand held 2X4 and putting the transmission in gear and go ahead and load some torque on the engine and see how far she torques over. If you are going to have clearance issuse they'll show up then. Of course while you have two hands on the 2X4 and one foot on the clutch and one foot on the gas it will be difficult to stretch your neck far enough to see how much she's twisting.
You'll need a friend, and be kind and tell him not to stand right in front of the car.

 

[firstgear]

Regarding your clearance question, after you get the motor in with the old mounts hooked up I'd suggest locking your brakes on with a hand held 2X4 and putting the transmission in gear and go ahead and load some torque on the engine and see how far she torques over. If you are going to have clearance issuse they'll show up then. Of course while you have two hands on the 2X4 and one foot on the clutch and one foot on the gas it will be difficult to stretch your neck far enough to see how much she's twisting.
You'll need a friend, and be kind and tell him not to stand right in front of the car.

wpon't get that far before the mounts are fully welded in....the body if off the frame as we speak....all the suspension pieces and anything not welded down on the frame has been removed. The plan is to weld EVERYTHING on that needs to be welded...sand blast the frame, triple etch it and then powder coat it.....don't want to mess up the paint job by more welding after wards...I need to get it right from the start.....I went out at lunch today and ordered up the stock mounts as well as stock bolts.....I will see what the difference is....

 

[cbernhardt]

firstgear:

I am using a similar type of frame bracket with the Energy Suspension urethane motor mounts on my '59 big block project. In my case I used a 1/2" grade 8 bolt to fasten the two together. If I remember correctly I had to "expand" the hole in the urethane mounts slightly in order to get the bolt through. Looks to me like all you need is a larger bolt.
Charles

 

[Vette66AirCoupe]

If you pursue this the way you have described, i. e. that you will put the motor in with the original motor mounts and then tack weld your new motor mounts in position with everything in it's stock location I don't see how you could have a clearance problem.