can't get rear rotor off

[awalla]

2002 coupe. Having trouble getting the LR rotor off. It won't budge. I tried tapping the face of the drum section with a hammer hoping to loosen it up but it just won't move. Does anyone who has had this problem before offer any advice?

 

[BLACK MOON]

I had the same problem with mine and ended up pulling some of the emerg. brake assembly off. All i can suggest is a bigger hammer. Try to beat it evenly around the rotor so that it doesn't get in a bind with the emerg. brale assembly. Beat it, turn it a few inches and beat it again. It will come off.

Good luck and let us know.

 

[SANOLS1]

Had the same with my left rear. Make sure the Emer Brake is off. If you must use a hammer I suggest a lead mallot or plastic dead blow. Take your time. Nothing on your car will respond well to sharp blows with a hammer..

 

[mqqn]

Hi awalla -

Make sure you have removed the emergency brake cable from the actuating lever on the rear of the brake.

Then, you can use a screwdriver or (preferably) a brake adjusting spoon to back the emergency brake off a few turns. You can check to see if the brake is binding by turning it back and forth - the rotor should turn without any brake interference - only the driveline drag.

If all of this seems ok, then you are back to hitting the face of the rotor, between the lug studs, with a hammer. I use a 3lb sledge for this.

Hit it, wiggle it, hit it , wiggle it etc. It WILL eventually come off - some just take more persuasion than others....

If you are not fighting the emergency brake pad material, then all you are fighting is rust between the mounting pad and the rotor.

Some folks have had the emergency brake come apart inside the rotors "drum" - you should be able to see if there is any abnormalities like that by inspecting the brake from the half-shaft side of the brake.

best regards -

mqqn

 

[awalla]

I can rotate the rotor with the trans in neutral and there isn't any appreciable drag from the e-brake so I don't think that is an issue. I sprayed the studs and the hub with PB penetrating oil last night and tonight. I'm using a 4# sledge to "tap" the rotor between the studs. It will not "wiggle" at all. I'll keep trying... thanks for the advice!

 

[mqqn]

I can rotate the rotor with the trans in neutral and there isn't any appreciable drag from the e-brake so I don't think that is an issue. I sprayed the studs and the hub with PB penetrating oil last night and tonight. I'm using a 4# sledge to "tap" the rotor between the studs. It will not "wiggle" at all. I'll keep trying... thanks for the advice!

Hi awalla -

Well keep on being persistent - you will conquer it!

My daughter is getting married this weekend or I would hop on the bike and cruise up to Madison and give you a hand - seriously! That way I could go to a special steak house in Madison that I love.....

If you are still having trouble next weekend................

You'll have it in hand by then - I had to really hit the passenger side of my coupe - but the drivers side came right off -

PB Blaster is THE shiznit as far as penetrating lubricants go (in my experience) so you are on track there.

If it is this much trouble to remove , I would use some anti-sieze compound on the backside of the new rotor in the spans between the lugs before I would install the new ones....just makes sense.

good luck buddy -

best regards -

mqqn

 

[Mike Mercury]

poor mans rotor puller:

this worked perfectly for one side, but for the other side I still needed to nudge the rotor with a rubber mallet. Popped right off.