change plugs and now no start/spark

[gmhowe]

change plugs and no no start/spark

changed plugs this morning in my 85 and now no start just turning over, no spark from the wires and the service engine soon light doesn't come on when you turn the ignition on. changed the plugs 1 at a time so no chance of wires getting screwed up all fuses ok anybody have any ideas.

 

[crause]

I don't think the 85 had points, should be electronic ignition. But do check the distributor cap and rotor. Turn the engine over with the cap off and make sure the rotor is turning. My guess is that if you were not having any problems prior to changing the plugs that you just pulled something loose. Look all around the engine for a wire that may have pulled out. Check them close because it may look like it is plugged in but it is not making connection. I would check one of the plugs first, as described by c5d, because if the gap is too wide it will not run. Let us know.

Andy

I just thought of something, if you changed the rotor; make sure that it is pushed all the way down on the dist. shaft. There is a notch in the shaft that will match the notch in the hole of the rotor. If this is not lined up and pushed all the way down it won't run.

 

[gmhowe]

all i did was change the plugs.. but why doesn't the "service engine soon" light come on when I turn the key on?? and there is no spark coming out off the distributor cap post either. What controls the service engine soon light.. could my ECM suddenly gone bad.. car ran fine yesterday...

 

[gmhowe]

plugs are BOSCH Platinum and came pre gapped

 

[crause]

Just changing the plugs should not cause the car to just stop running. At worst, if you got the wires messed up it would run rough. Because the check engine light is not coming on gives me more reason to believe that something got pulled loose. I am more familiar with the 75 set up. Check around the carb and intake as well as the dist. for a loose wire.

Andy

 

[crause]

Always glad my two cents worth helps Sherry. I guess I will be telling my age when I remember the time that they stopped putting points in. I was in High School and doing a few tuneups for friends to make a little extra money. I even had a little meter that I used for adjusting the "dwell" (point angle/gap).

Andy

 

[crause]

I know what you mean! I still have my old timing light and I think that old meter is put away somewhere in my shop. Who would ever have known that I would buy an old classic and need them again.

Andy

 

[cntrhub]

jmhowe,
By now, you followed c5d's suggestion. If that procedure showed no spark, I would throw a part at it. That would be the spark module inside the distributor. I think I read on here, they cost about $15 at the dealer, or places like NAPA. I forget which?
If you already took the dist. cap off, you can get an idea what the inside of the cap looks like? White corrosion on the 8 trigger pins? Rotor look ok? You might want to think about replacing those also.

 

[gmhowe]

changed the ignition module.. still no luck. and no I was gonna wash if after changing the plugs..

 

[69MyWay]

lets try a couple of things.

1. what happens when you ground at the computer to check for codes? you should get a continous code 12 if all is well with the ecm.

2. look at your distributor. you have a wire harness that comes out of the dist and plugs into the car harness. if the ecm is fine, my guess is you pulled this large wire loose at the connector.

3. check to see that you have 12+ going into the battery side of the connectors at the cap---and that you did not mix up the tach and battery feed.

try this out and let us know.

 

[KOPBET]

gmhowe,

can you check your injector fuses for us? esp. INJ1 fuse.