Changed the rotors/pads. Did I miss anything?

[87blackroxi]

It's been a while since I pulled a brake system apart and was forced to do so this morning at 7:00am before work so I wasn't able to be thorough.
It noticed it friday when I had the radio turned off while driving and noticed a bad squeal of the brakes which beame progressively worse. I did alot of driving this weekend and was unable to get to it until today. By last night it was grinding. Well, the left rotor was severely scored and the pads were down to the metal. It was a bad sight. I could feel my car cursing at me! The right side wasn't so bad.
My question is: Are there any other mechanical parts that should be changed on the brake system when I am swapping out the rotors and pads? I guess are there any smaller components to change? Should I also bleed the brake system? I just didn't think of it this a.m. because I only had an hour to do the work.

 

[Vettelt193]

It's been a while since I pulled a brake system apart and was forced to do so this morning at 7:00am before work so I wasn't able to be thorough.
It noticed it friday when I had the radio turned off while driving and noticed a bad squeal of the brakes which beame progressively worse. I did alot of driving this weekend and was unable to get to it until today. By last night it was grinding. Well, the left rotor was severely scored and the pads were down to the metal. It was a bad sight. I could feel my car cursing at me! The right side wasn't so bad.
My question is: Are there any other mechanical parts that should be changed on the brake system when I am swapping out the rotors and pads? I guess are there any smaller components to change? Should I also bleed the brake system? I just didn't think of it this a.m. because I only had an hour to do the work.

Definitely bleed the brake system... humidity kills brake fluid, and you know how humid it is down here in FL.

There aren't many parts on brakes, so just check them out... check the lines, etc. anything worn or cracked will need replacing, but the chances of that are pretty slim.

 

[87blackroxi]

Definitely bleed the brake system... humidity kills brake fluid, and you know how humid it is down here in FL.

There aren't many parts on brakes, so just check them out... check the lines, etc. anything worn or cracked will need replacing, but the chances of that are pretty slim.

You're right, bleed the brake system is probably a good idea anyway. Check lines for cracks, ok. How about any other things to check? And this weekend I am going to take a look at the rear brakes. Anything special there? Is there a brake cylinder in the rear that would need to be replaced?
And what would the reason why the left side pads were down to the metal and the right side were 50% down? The alignment?

 

[Vettelt193]

You're right, bleed the brake system is probably a good idea anyway. Check lines for cracks, ok. How about any other things to check? And this weekend I am going to take a look at the rear brakes. Anything special there? Is there a brake cylinder in the rear that would need to be replaced?
And what would the reason why the left side pads were down to the metal and the right side were 50% down? The alignment?

That is strange... I can't remember exactly what the brakes were like on the '87 (I used to have an '87 vert too!).

I think they are free floating brakes like the rest of the C4's though. Assuming so, make sure the calipers float on the pins back and forth like they should. Make sure the brakes let go all the way... something could be sticking causing the one brake to engage while you aren't braking. This is probably the most likely cause, although you may find that the rubber line on the right side is cracked / bad causing it to not be as strong.

If you opt to re-do the brakes with little research into the problem, you can usually tell if the brake is sticking because the car will feel out of alignment with the brakes off, but when they are on it should drive straight. the opposite will happen if the right side components are bad.

The rear brakes are just as easy as the front, nothing too special on these brakes... which is why there are rarely problems with them

 

[KOPBET]

If yours is anything like the later C4s, you should replace the rear pin bolts with the pads and not re-use. AC/Delco rear pads come with the pins. Don't know about aftermarket.

 

[87blackroxi]

I think they are free floating brakes like the rest of the C4's though. Assuming so, make sure the calipers float on the pins back and forth like they should. If you opt to re-do the brakes with little research into the problem, you can usually tell if the brake is sticking because the car will feel out of alignment with the brakes off, but when they are on it should drive straight. the opposite will happen if the right side components are bad.

When you say free floating brakes, do you mean they move horizontally? If so I'm not too sure, i didn't check. But I will.

If yours is anything like the later C4s, you should replace the rear pin bolts with the pads and not re-use. AC/Delco rear pads come with the pins. Don't know about aftermarket.

The rear pin bolts? Are those the ones that hold the calipers on the bracket?

 

[KOPBET]

The rear pin bolts? Are those the ones that hold the calipers on the bracket?

 

[87blackroxi]

You > <me

:L

 

[Vettelt193]

When you say free floating brakes, do you mean they move horizontally? If so I'm not too sure, i didn't check. But I will.

They will go back and forth... if you are looking above the brake (think hood open looking down) they will move toward and away from the center of the car, back and forth on the caliper. this keeps them centered on the caliper all the time. it will all make sense when you get into it, especially if you get a chance to take your time.

 

[87blackroxi]

They will go back and forth... if you are looking above the brake (think hood open looking down) they will move toward and away from the center of the car, back and forth on the caliper. this keeps them centered on the caliper all the time. it will all make sense when you get into it, especially if you get a chance to take your time.

I got it. I'll take a peek at them monday after the fiesta! thanks

 

[KOPBET]

You > <me

:L

Sorry. Didn't mean to > <

:L

 

[Larry's Yellow Rdstr]

You are going to a fiesta? We used to have them in the 60s in Calif. complete with the virgin sacrifice.

 

[87blackroxi]

You are going to a fiesta? We used to have them in the 60s in Calif. complete with the virgin sacrifice.

I call it the frenzy fiesta. Probably not what you're thinking about. I am flying to Missouri to have thanksgiving with my future in-laws :ugh . The only sacrifice I have to make is I have to watch how much I drink and try not to pee in the jacuzzi again.:L

 

[AdvancedAutoCC]

You're right, bleed the brake system is probably a good idea anyway. Check lines for cracks, ok. How about any other things to check? And this weekend I am going to take a look at the rear brakes. Anything special there? Is there a brake cylinder in the rear that would need to be replaced?
And what would the reason why the left side pads were down to the metal and the right side were 50% down? The alignment?

For simple pad/rotor replacement, bleeding is not necessary.

From the description given, your problem indicates you have a bad brake hose on the left front side. Brake hoses rot from the inside-out, and when one goes bad, it acts as a 1-way check valve that maintains pressure on the affected caliper. You need to replace the front hoses at a minimum (always replace hoses in pairs), and yes, you will need to bleed the system after that. Normal NAPA typer replacement parts are fine, but you can get a better feeling pedal by upgrading to stainless steel-braided hoses. These aren't really necessary for street driven cars (kind of overkill), but nice to have.

 

[87blackroxi]

For simple pad/rotor replacement, bleeding is not necessary.

From the description given, your problem indicates you have a bad brake hose on the left front side. Brake hoses rot from the inside-out, and when one goes bad, it acts as a 1-way check valve that maintains pressure on the affected caliper. You need to replace the front hoses at a minimum (always replace hoses in pairs), and yes, you will need to bleed the system after that. Normal NAPA typer replacement parts are fine, but you can get a better feeling pedal by upgrading to stainless steel-braided hoses. These aren't really necessary for street driven cars (kind of overkill), but nice to have.

Is there a huge difference in price on the stainless compared to regular hose?

 

[AdvancedAutoCC]

Is there a huge difference in price on the stainless compared to regular hose?

It depends on a number of factors (brands, etc.), but not too overly bad in the grand scheme of things.

OT: was up your way on Saturday and hafta say Channelside is a pretty cool place (was at the IMAX), food, entertainment and most important: a good cigar store .

 

[Larry's Yellow Rdstr]

Eckler's list braided brake line for your car for $109.95

 

[Vettelt193]

For simple pad/rotor replacement, bleeding is not necessary.

being from florida, I am surprised at your stance here. Brake fluid may not 'need' to be changed after simple pad/rotor replacement but it certainly should be. Glycol based brake fluid loves to absorb water, and will take it right out of the air... and in Florida's ever humid climate, fluid is basically good for a year... after that the boiling point is reduced so much it is far less effective. considering pads/rotors tend to last longer than a year, the fluid should be changed at least as often as pads are.

Another note worth mentioning: Starting 1993, GM changed the rubber brake lines and they are supposed to be far better at blocking out moisture... this helps to extend the life of brake fluid.

 

[aboatguy]

being from florida, I am surprised at your stance here. Brake fluid may not 'need' to be changed after simple pad/rotor replacement but it certainly should be. Glycol based brake fluid loves to absorb water, and will take it right out of the air... and in Florida's ever humid climate, fluid is basically good for a year... after that the boiling point is reduced so much it is far less effective. considering pads/rotors tend to last longer than a year, the fluid should be changed at least as often as pads are.

Another note worth mentioning: Starting 1993, GM changed the rubber brake lines and they are supposed to be far better at blocking out moisture... this helps to extend the life of brake fluid.

Replacing my old brake fluid gave me a better pedal feel. When I first bought my car, I thought the brakes sucked and was thinking about the C5 brake upgrade. I checked out my brakes and the pads and rotors looked new, however, when I checked the master cylinder the brake fluid was coffee colored. So I sucked the old fluid out from each wheel cylinder via my mityvac (while keeping the Master cylinder full) I had a maked improvement in pedal feel and stopping power after the removal of nasty 10 year old fluid.

Mike

 

[AdvancedAutoCC]

Let me clarify

Brake bleeding is NOT necessary when replacing pads, unless you crack open the hydraulic system.

HOWEVER.... periodic fluid replacement should be performed, but this is a separate issue from normal brake pad replacement. SCCA race teams don't flush the brake systems when changing the pads at Sebring, for example (no time), but when the car is back in the shop, of course they replace the fluid. Same principle applies, unless you're a "drive it til it breaks" type of owner (yes, some Corvette owners are this way).