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Changing Differential Fluid "82 Vette"

tj_82_vette

Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2002
Messages
23
Location
Shirley, Mass. USA
Corvette
1982 Corvette Coupe; brown
When engaging from Neutral to drive my differential sometimes makes a big clunk sound. This also happens when I go from park to reverse.

I have heard since the differential has Posi Traction this is a common problem.

I have seen differential fluid and additive for sale in Ecklers magazines. They say this fluid will reduce the engaging noise in the differential. Is this true ?

Is there a way to change the fluid without removing the differential plate. Is there a drain plug to let the fluid out ?

Thanks, TJ
 
Just did mine last week. Made a world of difference. Much quieter and smoother. Get a siphon or large syringe with a piece of tubing to suck the old stuff out throught the filler hole. It's not difficult even I managed to get it done. Have fun.
 
Thanks for the feed back. That's a great Idea about using a siphon to get the fluid out. I will do that this week end !

Thanks, TJ

:pat
 
I created a vacuum system using my shop vac, a 1 gallon bucket and some tubing. I created a tight opening for the shop vac hose and then ran a piece of tubing to the diffrential fill hole. The only thing I wish I would have done is use clear tubing, it worked to suck all of the fluid out.
 
I can't say that I can armchair diagnose your problem, but I can shed some light on the subject.

First, the clunking you have heard about from the rear ends of C3's is when the positration plates are slipping and grabbing inside the diferential, but this only occurs when the diferential is HOT, after driving a hundred or so miles. Even then it only occurrs when you are going slow, and turning. Not when putting into gear, as in your situation. That diferential noise / clunking can be very loud, and actually make the car jolt a little, kind of like a full time four wheel drive when you are turning. The clunking is caused by a break down in the viscosity of the rear end grease, 90 wt I think. I was told (whay back then in 1978) that the origional gear oil was made with whale oil, and when the US stopped harvesting whales, an additive had to be made by GM because the oil was no longer available.

In your situation, I believe what you are describing is called "drive train wrap up." The primary culpret is usually simply that the idle speed is to high. If the choke/ high idle is still on when you are putting it in gear, then try and tap the idle down with the gas pedal, before you put the car into reverse or drive.

If that is not the problem, then check the actual idle speed itself, the rpm info should written be on the bottom of the hood, or the core support. You can test this theory by actually lowering the idle speed lower than factory settings, but just as a test. You may have to overhaul the carb to correct the problem.

However, it is also likely you have a combination of things causing the problem. There are 6 universal joints in the drive line, and there are four caps on each u-joint with maybe 30 or 40 needle bearings inside each. Any one needle bearing can cause the clunk, or more likely the overall wear of all of them is cause. The clunk will continue, and get worse, including when driving, if the u-joints are bad. They are not hard to change with a floor jack and a bench vice. But be carefull in installing the half shafts, the u-joints have to be carefully be "pulled" into place by the securing screws at the spindles. Also, you will need a star socket for the bolts, unless they have already been changed.

Hope this helps.
 
Good info above about the U-joints. I would also like to mention that you could/should have your side yokes checked if the above solutions don't fix your clunking noise.
As far as cost goes...
1 change oil in differential (GM sells a specific additive for the rear end, put in first, then fill with oil)
2 check/change u-joints
3 side yokes (big $)

I had the clunk when first putting my 78 under powertrain load, and it worsened to creaking, moaning and groaning noises when turning corners or starting from a stop.
My side yokes were worn out and needed to be replaced. Lets hope you catch yours in time!
Heidi :w
 
One other thing I did'nt see mentioned was also it could be the "rubber" cushions on top/bottom of the differential bracket that has the one bolt going through a series of washer, then cushion, then bracket, then cushion, then washer. If these "cushions" are very deteriorated or heavily worn they also can cause the "differential" clunking sound heard.
 
hello , i am wondering what everyone is using for gear oil and additive. i read lots of good ideas on how to get the oil out. now, what do i put in?


save the wave !!!!

robin
 
Suction gun

Use a suction gun to suck the old oil out and then use it to put the new oil in. I use 2 of GM# 1052358 additive and 3 of GM# 1052271 posi oil (you'll have a little left over)

Dave
 
You could also have excessive backlash between the ring gear and pinion gear. Specs call for 5 to 8 thousanths. The rear end would have to come out to do an inspection as to what is worn, if this is the case. I hope it's not this, but it's a possibility.
Good luck!
 
Thanks for all your feedback. I took a look at the Differential last weekend. I noticed it was a tight fit and not much working room between the tire carrier and the differential. Couple of questions:

I found the plug with the tag.

What type up wrench do I use. It looks like I need a L wrench i.e. allen wrench.

The plug seems to be low so it must be a drain plug. There is a bolt much aboout 5 inches higher than the plug which appears to be the filler ;ocation. Is this right where there seems to be two plugs ? one for draining and one for filling ?

Thanks again, TJ
Novice weekend Mechanic :pat
 
Unless someone modified the housing, the plug with the tag is the only fill/drain hole. Off the top of my head, I don't know the size. You can probably buy a set of allen keys for $10.
I take the spare tire carrier out. Then you don't have to jack the rear up and there's more elbow room.
 

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