Changing intake manifold gaskets and steering pump to steering gear hose.

[TedC]

My next two projects...

1. Replace steering pump to steering gear hose due to slight leak: Any tricks of the trade? Looks like I can reach both fittings from the top driver's side. Special ordered parts from NAPA.

2. Replace intake manifold gaskets due to slight oil leak that is running down back of the engine: Any tricks of the trade? I picked up a Fel-Pro 93318 upper intake set from NAPA. Looks like the intake maifold end seals are made using the provided RTV silicone sealer (no gaskets). Both the Fel-Pro instructions and FSM indicate the use of loctite PN 1052624 on the manifold attaching bolts. Is this the permanent high strength red stuff? These instructions at CF recommend teflon sealer (see page 2). Repairing L98 Tuned Port Intake - Corvette Fever Magazine

 

[boomdriver]

My next two projects...

1. Replace steering pump to steering gear hose due to slight leak: Any tricks of the trade? Looks like I can reach both fittings from the top driver's side. Special ordered parts from NAPA.

2. Replace intake manifold gaskets due to slight oil leak that is running down back of the engine: Any tricks of the trade? I picked up a Fel-Pro 93318 upper intake set from NAPA. Looks like the intake maifold end seals are made using the provided RTV silicone sealer (no gaskets). Both the Fel-Pro instructions and FSM indicate the use of loctite PN 1052624 on the manifold attaching bolts. Is this the permanent high strength red stuff? These instructions at CF recommend teflon sealer (see page 2). Repairing L98 Tuned Port Intake - Corvette Fever Magazine

Thats a good all day job on the PS pump by itself....and no, you're going to struggle to access the line fittings...Just make it easy on your self and remove the alt, bracket, and THEN you can actually get a wrench (flare nut wrench or crows foot flare) on the fitting. You will still be very limited in how much you can turn your wrench...its an impossible task. Before disassembly, make a note of exactly how the steel line is oriented. When you are able to tighten the fitting, you have to have the line exactly right. If you don;t, when you install the alt and bracket something will rub on the hose or steel tubing, so it must be turned just right.

When you tighten the fitting, run it down tight, then loosen and retighten. This assures that the flare seats. You cannot afford to have it leak. Unless you're willing to take all that crap apart again and its not that much fun.
Nows a good time to replace the suction hose and return hose. They are almost as difficult to change so stick new ones in while you have it apart.
I'll warn you now, its just as probably that its not the hose leaking....more likely the PS rack shaft seal or the pump seal. Hoses do not fail very often. These are high pressure lines and will outlive most of the car.

Intake....you sure? its not the oil pressure/switch "tree" fitting thats leaking? There are 3 ways that can leak..where its screwed in the block, or the 2 holes where the switch and sender are screwed in.

If you take the intake off, clean up and secure that harness section thats on the firewall. It needs to be checked for wire insulation damage, cracking and the sleeve taped up or replaced. Then the whole thing needs to be secured so it does not get water inside to accellerate the rotting of the wires.

 

[TedC]

Boom,
Appreciate the input. I started with the easier project of the two, the manifold gasket.
Around 8 hours to complete. Not real difficult, just time consuming due to all the steps required. Today, I'll replace the oil and coolant. Engine oil was leaking out of the rear seal in the corner between the block and driver's side head. It also appeared that there was a very small coolant leak at the same spot as well. The Fel Pro upper intake gasket set included all the required gaskets except for the thermostat gasket. I did not need to remove the fuel rails or EGR. Regarding the steering fluid leak, I cleaned up the hose to try and confirm the source of this leak. It appears to be coming from the metal tube where it is pressure fitted into the metal clamp that is crimped onto the rubber hose. At first I thought this was engine oil related to the intake manifold leak, but it smells like power steering fluid.

 

[boomdriver]

Boom,
Appreciate the input. I started with the easier project of the two, the manifold gasket.
Around 8 hours to complete. Not real difficult, just time consuming due to all the steps required. Today, I'll replace the oil and coolant. Engine oil was leaking out of the rear seal in the corner between the block and driver's side head. It also appeared that there was a very small coolant leak at the same spot as well. The Fel Pro upper intake gasket set included all the required gaskets except for the thermostat gasket. I did not need to remove the fuel rails or EGR. Regarding the steering fluid leak, I cleaned up the hose to try and confirm the source of this leak. It appears to be coming from the metal tube where it is pressure fitted into the metal clamp that is crimped onto the rubber hose. At first I thought this was engine oil related to the intake manifold leak, but it smells like power steering fluid.

Glad the intake went well...good practice for the more awkward task ahead..

I've heard of the hoses leaking at the crimp..its rare, but it does happen. When I did my new PS system, it was all new rack, pump, all hoses. The system when assembled is almost impossible to work on. Even IF you can get a wrench on a fitting, you can't turn it. I would have been a whole lot quicker with mine if I had'nt had to wrestle with the pulley..ended up buying a new one to press on the new pump.

Like I said before, just make notes of how the hoses are positioned so nothing rubs when ita all assembled. Thats aggrevating to bolt it all up and THEN see the tube riding on a bracket edge or a hose hitting the pump pulley...

Good Luck with it..!