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Choosing the right stall...

Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
240
Location
Green Bay, Wisconsin
Corvette
1981 Corvette Spectramaster Blue
Ok, this one may sound dumb but what do I look at when choosing a stall converter...my engine is a 350 385/425 in the area...it has a big cam, full length headers, and I am going to do a 2004r swap from the th350 thats in there now.

Thanks For the Help
John Dykstra
 

AKRAY4PLAY

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 14, 2001
Messages
584
Location
Wasilla, Alaska, U.S.A.
Corvette
'77 L-82, black on black. Full mod 406 small block
you need to balance your entire set-up. look at vehicle weight, gear ratio, tranny, tire size, engine configuration, cam profile, intended use, converter effecency and driving style. big cams need a big stall converter to really perform. unfortunately big stalls do not like street driving, unless you pony up $800 and get a real nice converter like a TCI or Yank top end unit. i run a Yank 3500 10" converter in my '77 with a 406sb and TH400. it will cruise at 2200 rmp all day without getting hot. in fact it runs 20* cooler than the B&M 2400 converter i had in it, but it cost $850. well worth the money in my opinion. if you go with a cheaper, beware of heating issues do to the loss in effecency.
 

Mr. Lucky

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2004
Messages
405
Location
Orange, CA
Corvette
2004 MY stroker Coupe
It's not dumb at all - it's a very complex subject, with a lot of conflicting claims. It also depends on whether you want is for street/strip or all-out drag performance. I recently went through this selection process, and in the process tried two different converters. I've also driven cars with a variety of other converters (na and sc). I can't tell you what converter to get, but maybe my experience will help you decide.

Some rules of thumb:
  • Don't select a converter stall speed with the idea of preventing all forward creep at idle. If you do, the converter will be too big and seem very "loose" (i.e., lots of pedal required to get the car moving).
  • In general, the lower the STR or the higher the stall rpm, the looser the converter will feel.
  • For all around street/strip use, I found that for STR < ~1.8, I could select a stall rating based on the beginning (bottom end) of my powerband. Above 1.8 or so, I derated the stall selected.
  • I have not purpose-built a drag car, but I would imagine you would want to select stall rating so that it got you into the fat part of the powerband ASAP (i.e., higher stall than a street or street/strip car).
  • Always plan and budget a transmission cooler install at the time you add the converter, because your tranny will heat up without it.
  • If you have a loud exhaust, remember that a high stall converter will get you into higher RPM much sooner than stock. If you car is too loud or your converter too big, it may become obnoxious as a dd.
  • Your output motor torque and gears also figure into the equation. This page will give you an idea of the relationships and considerations.
I have a 402 stroker than produces over 400 lb-ft of torque at 3000rpm. I started with a Yank SS3200 and ended up with a Vigilante 2400. For me, it is perfect. HTH!
 

AKRAY4PLAY

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 14, 2001
Messages
584
Location
Wasilla, Alaska, U.S.A.
Corvette
'77 L-82, black on black. Full mod 406 small block
John,
what are your rear gears?? and what is your motor configuration?? mainly need cam profile (duration at 0.050" lift would be great), heads, intake and compression ratio. also do you plan on running drag radials or regular street tires?? looking for smoke or stick??
 

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