cleaning small parts question

[BarryK]

most of the hardware such as the bolts, washers, studs, etc for the parts i've taken off the motor I ordered new replacement items for. These include things like new intake bolts & washers, valve cover bolts, all new exhaust manifold bolts, washers, french locks, studs and nuts, etc so everything will be fresh, clean and easier to deal with when it's reassembly time.

There are some small items that I didn't see the point of spending the money for new replacements and now I'm wondering the best way to get them cleaned up. Things like the bracket that mounts on the intake that the throttle linkage return spring attaches to, the ignition shielding brackets, alternator mounting bolts, some hose clamps, etc.
I obviously don't have a parts cleaner like some of you guys that to do a lot of your own work have but need something that will clean up these small pieces.
Would one of those one gallon carb cleaner buckets that comes with the carb cleaner solution in it with a basket work or am I better finding a local mechanics shop that would be willing to put these parts inside one of their parts cleaner machines be better?

 

[IH2LOSE]

Barry

I use a can of carburator cleaner. Its a 1 gallon steel paint can with solvents in it,and a steel parts basket.

Just about any auto parts places sells them.

 

[1KULC7]

Barry,

I have used brake cleaning fluid, WD40, and mineral Spirits. Of course not all together. Gasoline is the best...but NEVER use it, fumes etc...so I have used a scrub brush with brake fluid, just scrubed the pieces clean, let them dry, and if its bear metal, I have used mother metal polish to get a new luster back. WD40 works good with a Sash Tool (Round Paint Brush) to get off oil and grease, tar and road grim. Finallay mineral spirits works good for overspray...

0000 Steel wool used with WD40 gets off deeper grim. and gives metal a low luster. Good Luck

 

[BarryK]

Larry, yep, it's that can of carb cleaner with the basket I was thinking of, just wasn't sure if it was strong enough to really clean these parts well. I'll go get one and give it a shot.

Collin, that's a lot of ideas. I think i'll try the carb cleaner bucket first, than if it doesn't get it clean enough than i'll try your suggestion of the steel wool and WD 40.
After what happened to my chrome bumper last spring I swore I would NEVER use Chrome & Metal polish cleaner ever again but I broke down and just used it on my ignition shielding covers and boy they are looking GOOD.

Thanks guys, as always I really appreciate the help!


BTW, if anyone is interested in seeing my progress, here is a link to the section of my website on this project. This link takes you to the intro page for the project than just click on the other links underneath this section. I have the motor disassembly, exhaust manifolds, and ignition shielding sections up already.
http://69.253.166.197/page1/page76/page76.html

 

[firstgear]

good question.....I too will follow up with that same approach....

Barry, also, took a look at your web site....VERY NICE...I was really impressed with the door gap adjustment...I will have to review it when I have more time....looking GREAT!!!

Herb

 

[BarryK]

thanks Herb

this was my first website so I'm still working on it and trying to improve it.

Yep, my painter did an excellent job on the door gaps. They were also one of my pet peeves and an area that was important for me when the car was in the shop to get as good as possible.

 

[Bwmurph]

Barry,

If you want to try the carb claener to use on your small parts I have a couple of gallons of it that you can use.

Also, we have a parts cleaner here at work that you can use too.

Let me know,

Bernie O.

 

[Kid_Again]

None of these solvents are particularly healthy to use but I'm a bit leary of "carb cleaner." Most of the brands that I've seen are particularly good at degreasing because they have a crap load of phenol in them. Phenol is not pleasant stuff.

I tend to go a different route and use water-based degreasers not because they are more environmentally friendly but because they are less toxic to the user. You can get this stuff in spray cans at any auto supply place or WalMart. It takes more elbow grease to clean the parts but that's a small trade-off.

Your liver, your choice.

It also doesn't make a tinker's damn bit of difference whether you use these solvents in a "well ventilated" area. The toxicity is incremental.

 

[Mac]

I agree, Kid... some solvents are pretty nasty. Another environmentally friendly way is to use water soluable degreasers in an ultrasonic cleaner like this... click!!

-Mac

 

[korvettekarl]

Another alternative is a paint can shaker. You can somtimes find them on Ebay and at swap meets. Fill a one gallon paint can about half full of sand and the rest with the parts and turn it on. It's noisy but VERY effective. Parts come out like new.

 

[BarryK]

Bernie
thanks for the offer

I'm trying to find a parts cleaner that was recommended that is called Berryman's B-12 but no one around seems to have it. In the meantime I got the carb cleaner in the bucket today and tried a few pieces. Seems to work pretty good so far except for a few bolts that were pretty rusty. I'll probably just get those few bolts as clean as i can and be done with it rather than spending for yet more replacement bolts as these are in places they can't be seen anyway. Than again I'm so anal I may end up replacing those too....... but i'd rather not. i'm already shocked the amount i've spent just on nuts, bolts, and studs to replace old and rusty ones on this project.

If I have any small parts that I do want to save and need to clean up better than I'm able to do here than I very well may take you up on your offer

 

[78Vette-SA]

I use my bench grinder with a wire wheel on one side for all the small parts. Or in some cases, I put the little stuff into a kitchen strainer and put in the sand blasting cabinet. For a lot of stuff though I just use the bench grinder/wire wheel combo. I dunk the parts in cleaner (as mentioned, you can get the can with the strainer in it). Use a good stiff brush to get the loose stuff off, then on to the wire wheel. IN some case

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