clutch choices

[66ragtop]

I'm looking for some opinions. I have a 66 roadster with a 327/350 hp, m21 and 3:70 rear. I use the car for cruisin but still bang some gears occasionally, ( a habit I just can't break). My current clutch causes the pedal to stick to the floor over 5000rpm.

I am replacing the clutch and want one that will give good performance but will still have fairly easy pedal effort (stock feel). I used a Hays B&B competition clutch in my last hot rod and It was not the thing you want to go crusing with.

What can anyone tell me about the clutch you are using. Again, I am looking for something that will take some abuse.

Thanks in advance.
Brian

 

[Vetsvette2002]

Brian,

It doesn't sound to me like the clutch is bad. I sounds more like the engine and trans is rocking on the mounts and the twist is jamming the clutch linkage. But, why do you have to push the clutch all the way to the floor when power shifting. When done correctly, the clutch pedal is not used and at most it is just kicked in only part way. Any way eles just takes too much time in the quarter. Who likes to lose

I recommend a CenterForce II. More clamping force than the original and easier to boot.

If you do replace it, don't forget the throwout bearing and the pilot bushing in the crank. Some will prefer the new roller pilot, but this requires much closer alignment. Thats why I recommend the original style oil impregnated sintered bronze. Also suggest re-surfacing the flywheel too, as well as ging through the shift linkages for cleaning and operation and alignment.

Don

 

[JohnZ]

I'll vote for the Centerforce II as well - I've put them in six different cars over the last few years, and they're great; smooth engagement, great clamping force, and low pedal pressure to boot. No problems with any of them; two were in my Cobras and one was in my tube-frame Grand Sport, and they were leaned on pretty hard.

 

[Subfixer]

Doesn't sound like your clutch is bad, only mis-adjusted. I used to have the same problem in the old days. The pressure plate is being over-centered, and the centrifical force of high revs keeps it disengaged. Adjust your clutch such that it grabs closer to the floor, or put a block under the clutch pedal to keep it from being pushed too far. I keep my clutch pedal adjusted where the clutch begins to engage about one inch from the floor. Haven't had any problems at high revs.

 

[66ragtop]

Sounds like some good advice. I will check my engine mounts. I did find my trans mount was collapsed and I have replaced it. But it is winter here and I haven't had the opportunity to take it out for a good thrashing.

As for the power shift, I don't think my hand/leg corordination is good enough for a power shift without the clutch. In the old days better reflexes and no fear of breaking parts made it another story.

I will be pulling the trans out soon to correct a leak and repair a second gear slider ?, that causes the trans to pop out of gear on a coast. I will inspect the clutch at that time. If the plate and disc look good maybe I'll reuse them and try to adjust the pedal to grab closer to the floor. I do remember reading that the plate could get stuck over center from the centrifical force. maybe this is causing the pedal to stay down. When it has happened the pedal comes back out when the RPM's drop back down.

Thanks for all the input.
Brian

 

[Vetsvette2002]

Quick caveat....

Make sure the throw out bearing is facing the correct way.
Don't ask me how I know.....:duh

Don

 

[Tom Bryant]

Speaking of clutches.....

Has anyone had any first hand experience using a L88 clutch and light weight nodular iron flywheel? Friends used to run these back in the '70s but I can't recall how much effort it took to hold the clutch pedal down at a stop light. I know my '70 LS6 El Camino would have your knee shaking on a long light.

I ask because I have a new set on the shelf that I bought in the '70s and never used. Trying to decide if it should go on the parts list for the 355 I'll be building for the '59.

Tom

 

[Vetsvette2002]

Tom
If I remeber right (big question mark), I had a Hayes competition clutch in my 68 SS396 Chevelle that I used for street/strip (mostly strip). And it was a BEAR to hold in, but had unbelievable gripping power when hot. It also had a brake return spring for the dual quads. I wanted to make sure that when I lifted, they closed. The set up was great for racing. I had to take the car home when i was in the Corps and in the trip i got stuck in traffic. I sold that and got a much more civilized car to have fun with. A 66 Vette. Sold that about 6 months later for the same I bought it.......$1700. Yeah, I know Hindsight is 20/20

Don

 

[Tom Bryant]

Don,

I know what you mean. I sold a nice all original 300 hp 4 speed '65 red convert in '73 for $1850. Who knew?

Tom