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Clutch Issues! help!


Feb 16, 2014
Farmington UT
1997 Sebring silver
Need some help/opinions.

My clutch has been giving me fits the last few months- hard to get into gear, acts like air is in the system, locked out of gears at high rpm, sometimes I have to pump it ect...

I havent seen any fluid loss or leaks and ive been changing my fluid regularly.

Problem is ive seen to different ways to bleed the system

1st way- pump the clutch many times then hold the pedal to the floor, crack the bleeder and then close it with the pedal still down, then release it and repeat

2nd way- pump the clutch many times, take your foot off, crack the bleeder, push the clutch down and then close the bleeder with the pedal on the floor and repeat.

Which is correct?

When I was doing it these ways I wasnt getting much fluid out of the bleeder valve. seemed like something was wrong.

I put in a new master cylinder hoping that was it and still nothing so the only thing I can think it could be is the slave. But as far as my experience has been, when a slave goes, it almost always results in fluid loss.

Another thing that has me baffled is that when I was using the mityvac, it was holding "20" of vacuum and not dropping, which makes me me feel like there isnt a leak. but when I was using it, I was getting an obscene amount of air.

Another question. Are all remote bleeders a "one way valve"? should I be able to crack the bleeder and pump away? without closing it in between?

Im seriously at my wits end with this clutch and it takes away any and all enjoyment out of driving my car.
Im seriously debating just replacing the entire system completely and being done with it.

Am I doing something wrong or is there anything else I can try to get it bled?

First video is using the mityvac without touching the cluth pedal.

the second is building pressure and pumping the clutch.



If I go the route of buying everything new, I understand that GM slaves come pre-bled. Is this correct? and when I install a new speed bleeder wont I be introducing air into the slave?

what would be the procedure for bench bleeding the master cylinder? or bench bleeding the slave?

how do you attach a new throw out bearing to a slave cylinder? Ive never done it but the slave ill be buying will need to have the throwout bearing put on. and yes I know they normally come attached.

Ill be buying a factory LS6 Clutch and flywheel (LUK). will I need to measure for a slave cylinder shim?

Sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure that I cover all the bases before I tackle this project again
#1 is correct!:thumb

About the remote bleeder,I can't answer,Don't use them!:thumb

C5 clutches sometimes are a real bear,Especially if the person doing the pumping is a real lightweight and can't keep the peddle completely to the floor while holding!:thumb

I put the LS7 Clutch/Flywheel package with the stock Slave and Master in mine when I rebuilt the transmission back in 2012,I like it allot better than the stock LS1 clutch and the little extra weight gave it a little more low end grunt pulling away on a grade!

Last edited:
After looking at the vid,Your going about it All wrong,Your sucking air past the slave seals!:thumb

You need to be bleeding from the bleeder on the slave cylinder under the car on the left side of the bell housing and keep the master full of fresh fluid.

You'll have to remove the center section of the exhaust and tunnel cover to do that!:thumb
Last edited:
HI there,

Just to add to what GMJunkie has stated, normally, you will always find that it is your master cylinder.

When you have NO fluid leakage, the seal is usually bypassing pressure in the master cylinder, creating the condition.

You have an 11mm bleeder screw to evacuate fluid at the slave cylinder. You can install a speed bleeder, ONCE the driveline is removed.

But honestly, based on your symptoms and your videos, you install a master cylinder and its my theory you will be fine.

Just remember, DOT4 brake fluid must be used or if you want the GM part number, 19299570.

Allthebest, Paul

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