Clutch Problem?

[Dans86]

I was changing the oil the other day and when I let the car back down I couldn't get it out of gear. I checked the fluid and it was low so I filled it up and then bled the slave like the manual said and it still doesn't work. Does it sound like I still have air in the system or something else? The car only has 27k on it so I didn't think I needed a new clutch.

 

[Top]

I just replaced my clutch master cylinder yesterday. It went all the way to the floor Tuesday morning but I got it home. Check under your hush panel and see if you are leaking fluid there. My hush panel had soaked up the fuild as it leaked out the front of the cylinder. Replacement is simple although you have to remove the battery to get at it. Took me about an hour to do the whole thing. I got mine at Checker's (Kragen back east I think) for $126.99 with a lifetime warranty made by Raybestos. It was a special order and it took 3 days to get here from Phoenix.

Good luck!!

 

[vigman]

Check my previous posting

But you have to remove the slave to bleed it correctly.. got ot get the tail of it higher than the front ( air gets trapped in the nose of the slave and since it's it's higher than the bleed screw you cant get it ALL out!)


Vig!

 

[Top]

True, if you do it 'old school',... Pump, pump, pump, hold, tighten.

Attach a rubber hose to the bleeder that hangs below the low point into a catch can. The fuild will seek it's own level which is the end of the hose. Leave the pedal alone, you don't have to pump it, you want it retracted so the cylinder will fill. Open the bleeder and 'let it flow' 'let it flow' to 'sing' an old Neil Young song. Now, true, you must keep the cylinder filled but I used the old cap and attached a bottle of fuild. Gravity will bleed this system as long as you attach the hose and keep the fuild flow steady until it fills and flows clean with no bubbles. Tighten the bleeder and your done.

This will NOT work for brakes tho'.

 

[vigman]

Top....I don't think that approach will work

Since the NOSE of the slave is higher than the bleed valve ( when it's mounted ) the air will still stay trapped @ the front part of the cylinder.....

This is the ONLY way I have found that works on this setup with good results.

( and I have seen a LOT of work arounds) the MOST popular one seems to be an extended pushrod to compensate for the lack of hydraulic travel.

Just my.02


Vig!

 

[Top]

Hmmmmm, okay,.... this got me thinking of what I did 'cause I have a 'perfect' pedal so to speak. Now that I think about it (and went to the car and looked on how I put the hose on) the bleeder hose had a loop that was higher than the nose of the slave and then looped down into the catch can. The fact that the hose was above the highest point and then drained lower than the slave must of did it. I guess. Heck, I'm just an old retired Infantryman.....what the heck do I know anyway.

:eyerole <------- Top rollin' eyes at self....... :L