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Clutch Problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter rags 86
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rags 86

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Recently purchased 1986 Convertible. Dealer put in a new clutch before I took del.
Clutch grabs and releases at the floor. Put in a new slave cylinder. Bleed cyl. according to manual. Bleed cyl @ 45 deg etc. Could I have to bleed again.
Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
Can you pump it up like brakes ? I found when you have air in the system you can pump up the pedal with quick strokes.
I actually got a lot of air out by rapidly pumping the pedal about 30 to 50 times. ( with engine off)
I should look in my manual because I think it says something about pumping the pedal before you start the car. It had to do with self adjusting. Something I thought sounded a little strange.
It is possible that the master is bad.

Glenn
:w
 
Hmmmmm

Did the dealer replace ONLY the slave? I would do the master as well.

The typical goof up in NOT bleeding the slave off the car @ the 45 deg angle.

When the system is working properly it shouldn't be THAT close to the deck.

I was doing a car with a similar problem.. we made a new pushrod piece about 1/2 inch longer.. but that was for a drivers request to have it dis engage almost at the TOP.... but if the system is working PROPERLY my experience has been 2/3 of the way down your disconnected.

The trick to knwo if it's WRONG.. if you have difficulty getting in reverse.. Like you have to get it in to first to QUICKLY put it in REVERSE.. your not completely disengaged.

My .02
 
I just put my third slave and master on my '96. I always have trouble getting all the air out of the system and just a little air goes a long way toward screwing things up for the clutch pedal. Here's something you could try though if you're mechanically inclined. Try bleeding it with the slave attached - from the bottom up. You'll need a bulb syringe from the parts store. Also a pair of hemostats (like they use in a hospital) are very handy when doing this. I think the car needs to be slightly nose down to allow the port on the slave where the clutch fluid line connects to be at the high end of the slave (so air will not get trapped later...maybe its nose up - can't remember...)

If you're installing new dry parts, fill the slave off the car to get most of the air out it. No need to fill the master. Bolt the slave cylinder to the car and hook up the line.

Next fill the syringe with brake fluid and connect it via a long piece of vacuum hose to the downward pointing (what were they thinking when they designed this?) bleed port on the bottom of the slave.

Open the bleed port and squeeze the bulb forcing brake fluid into the slave. Since the clutch fluid line is connected to the top of the slave its natural for the bubbles to exit out the top up toward the master. The fluid will fill the rest of the slave and begin to rise toward the master forcing the air out toward the top and filling the master with fluid. Just keep an eye on the master and don't let it overflow.

When the syringe is empty now you'll need the hemostats. Clamp off the vac line near the syringe remove the syringe and refill the it. Reconnect it and remove the hemostats.

Continue purging until no more bubbles are exiting the master cylinder. After a few iterations of filling and purging you should have a rock solid clutch pedal that'll last a good while.

Good luck with it
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Good Idea ,lone73 . The only thing is , on my 90 the line is on the bottom of the slave. I know the line is where it belongs because I installed a new line and the way it comes bent it has to be on the bottom port.;shrug
It also tells me in the manual that when your done bleeding to tighten the bleed screw till it breaks for body clearance. Which means you have to remove the slave and use an easy out to replace the bleed screw each time you need to bleed.:( I simply cut the top of the bleed screw off before I installed the slave.That gave me the clearance I needed. You just can't attach a hose when your bleeding.


Glenn
:w
 
G Winter
Hmmm, wow thats funky. I wonder if you could upgrade it to the later style slave. If I'm not mistaken you have the ZF trans on that '90 correct?
 
Yes it is the ZF. I am sure they put the bleeder on top to do a better job of getting rid of air.
If it wasn't for the line fitting the way it did and what it says in the Helms I might have thought it should be the other way.The threads etc. are the same on both ports, so the slave may be the same as the later models.

Glenn
:w
 
Thanks all for the info. I am going to try and bleed again. I also may try a longer rod if the bleeding does not work. I might add that I do have some trouble with getting into reverse.

Rich :)
 

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